Update: overheating 4.0L
05-08-2005, 12:32 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
05-08-2005, 12:32 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
05-08-2005, 12:32 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal the
cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks on
the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday and
will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
Dave....
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
> rotation water pump for your engine.
> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
remember
> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and felt
> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
lol
> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
a/c
> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>
> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>
> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
the
> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
> --
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
to
> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
bottle.
> > I
> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
just
> > as
> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is faulty,
> > so
> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
the
> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
> > warm
> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
> > thinking
> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
> > coolant
> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts into
> > it...
> >
> > Dave...
>
>
05-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
05-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
05-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
05-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
Patrick
"dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
> electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
> still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
> that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
> gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
> the
> cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
> on
> the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
> the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
> and
> will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
> suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
>
> Dave....
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@ameritech.net> wrote in message
> news:M9dfe.3214$Yg4.1810@newssvr17.news.prodigy.co m...
>> Well I know you triple checked to make sure you installed the correct
>> rotation water pump for your engine.
>> And I will ASSuME that you correctly wired up the electric fan. I
> remember
>> seeing a car that was overheating at a shop. I felt for air flow and
>> felt
>> no real air flowing through the radiator. The fan was wired backwards.
> lol
>> Of course crud blocking air flow through the fins of the radiator and/or
> a/c
>> condenser will also allow for a overheating problem.
>>
>> When I first started driving mine with a rebuilt engine, I noticed the
>> temperature starting to rise when driving fast. This I believe was
>> partially due to a faulty EGR system.
>>
>> How long does it take for the engine to overheat? And you are sure that
> the
>> coolant sensor for the gauge is fine?????
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:C5bfe.35549$3U.1517380@news20.bellglobal.com. ..
>> > Well I had a few people take a look at the engine and all signs pointed
> to
>> > the water pump. So I changed it and the thermostat just to make sure,
>> > flushed the heater core and the rad, and cleaned out the overflow
> bottle.
>> > I
>> > filled the system and let it run with the cap off, and it overheated
> just
>> > as
>> > it did before. I have a new fan clutch, but I don't think it is
>> > faulty,
>> > so
>> > I may not install it. I ran the Jeep with the electric fan jumped to
> the
>> > battery, and it still overheated. The rad feels hot at the bottom and
>> > warm
>> > on top and the overflow bottle has a lot of flow inside. I am now
>> > thinking
>> > the head gasket may be the problem, as there are tiny bubbles in the
>> > coolant
>> > in the overflow. Any suggestions???? I am tired of throwing parts
>> > into
>> > it...
>> >
>> > Dave...
>>
>>
>
>
05-09-2005, 11:32 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
Check for a collapsed hose on suction side of radiator. I have seen the
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
05-09-2005, 11:32 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
Check for a collapsed hose on suction side of radiator. I have seen the
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
05-09-2005, 11:32 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update: overheating 4.0L
Check for a collapsed hose on suction side of radiator. I have seen the
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...
springs that are suppose to be in there to hold them open rust to the
point of nonexistance.
--
jeff
Patrick ΤΏΤ wrote:
> How old is the vehicle? could be a cloged radiator.
>
> Patrick
>
> "dcollivier" <dc.ollivier@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:Jarfe.4249$XX1.44461@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It overheats after about 10 minutes at idle and quicker on the road. The
>>electric fan does not turn on, but I wired it direct to the battery and it
>>still over heated. The water pump is the same as the one I took out, and
>>that one was fine for about three years of driving. I suspect the head
>>gasket is faulty and at 35.00 Canadian not a bad price. I have to seal
>>the
>>cover anyway so my time is cheap, but not sure on the dye test for cracks
>>on
>>the head after it is off. There is lots of air flow through the rad, and
>>the fan seams to be pulling lots of volume. I bought the book yesterday
>>and
>>will tackle it later today. The little bubbles in the overflow are too
>>suspicious not to. Thanks to all who replied...