just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
joints were totally shot!)

thanks,
Brad.

'81 CJ-7
258 w/ some mods
2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)

 

I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
u-joint.

-Dan

brad smith wrote:

> just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> joints were totally shot!)
>
> thanks,
> Brad.
>
> '81 CJ-7
> 258 w/ some mods
> 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
>
>

 

I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
u-joint.

-Dan

brad smith wrote:

> just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> joints were totally shot!)
>
> thanks,
> Brad.
>
> '81 CJ-7
> 258 w/ some mods
> 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
>
>

 

I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
u-joint.

-Dan

brad smith wrote:

> just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> joints were totally shot!)
>
> thanks,
> Brad.
>
> '81 CJ-7
> 258 w/ some mods
> 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
>
>

 

I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
u-joint.

-Dan

brad smith wrote:

> just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> joints were totally shot!)
>
> thanks,
> Brad.
>
> '81 CJ-7
> 258 w/ some mods
> 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
>
>

 

Yup, that has happened to me a couple times too.

It is caused from pushing the vibrations until the u-joint gets really
bad. It beats the cast tabs open a bit. I have tried to bend them back
a bit, it doesn't work, they shear off then.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dan wrote:
>
> I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
> I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
> u-joint.
>
> -Dan
>
> brad smith wrote:
>
> > just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> > the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> > u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> > and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> > the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> > driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> > joints were totally shot!)
> >
> > thanks,
> > Brad.
> >
> > '81 CJ-7
> > 258 w/ some mods
> > 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
> >
> >

 

Yup, that has happened to me a couple times too.

It is caused from pushing the vibrations until the u-joint gets really
bad. It beats the cast tabs open a bit. I have tried to bend them back
a bit, it doesn't work, they shear off then.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dan wrote:
>
> I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
> I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
> u-joint.
>
> -Dan
>
> brad smith wrote:
>
> > just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> > the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> > u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> > and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> > the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> > driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> > joints were totally shot!)
> >
> > thanks,
> > Brad.
> >
> > '81 CJ-7
> > 258 w/ some mods
> > 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
> >
> >

 

Yup, that has happened to me a couple times too.

It is caused from pushing the vibrations until the u-joint gets really
bad. It beats the cast tabs open a bit. I have tried to bend them back
a bit, it doesn't work, they shear off then.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dan wrote:
>
> I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
> I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
> u-joint.
>
> -Dan
>
> brad smith wrote:
>
> > just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> > the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> > u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> > and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> > the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> > driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> > joints were totally shot!)
> >
> > thanks,
> > Brad.
> >
> > '81 CJ-7
> > 258 w/ some mods
> > 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
> >
> >

 

Yup, that has happened to me a couple times too.

It is caused from pushing the vibrations until the u-joint gets really
bad. It beats the cast tabs open a bit. I have tried to bend them back
a bit, it doesn't work, they shear off then.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dan wrote:
>
> I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before
> I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a
> u-joint.
>
> -Dan
>
> brad smith wrote:
>
> > just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that
> > the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the
> > u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint
> > and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which
> > the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the
> > driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old
> > joints were totally shot!)
> >
> > thanks,
> > Brad.
> >
> > '81 CJ-7
> > 258 w/ some mods
> > 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)
> >
> >

 

I'm planning for a CV Shaft upgrade in the near future. Is there anything
unusual about changing the Yoke (dispite that I'll need a different yoke for
the CV shaft)? Any special tools/torque that would not allow DIY?

Thanks,

Bill