Turn Signal Problems?
11-11-2003, 11:17 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
No.
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
11-11-2003, 11:17 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
No.
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
11-11-2003, 11:17 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
No.
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Fire up the emergency flasher and follow the click to the unit. Then
look on the fuse panel for one that looks the same and swap them. If
the signals work, you need a new flasher.
You need to swap them back too, usually the emergency one is light duty
and even half the size/length and will burn out too fast. They are
round tubes one or two inches long by 3/4" round. If the plug fits, it
will work even if the emergency can size is shorter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Kyonn Gowans wrote:
>
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
11-12-2003, 10:34 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
On or about Wed, 12 Nov 2003, Kyonn Gowans of kyonn@yahoo.com wrote:
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
11-12-2003, 10:34 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
On or about Wed, 12 Nov 2003, Kyonn Gowans of kyonn@yahoo.com wrote:
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
11-12-2003, 10:34 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
On or about Wed, 12 Nov 2003, Kyonn Gowans of kyonn@yahoo.com wrote:
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
> > First guess would be the flasher unit. (about $2.00, NAPA NFL224, I
> think)
>
> I thought about that but if it its just the flasher wouldn't the lights come
> on and just not blink?
Not if the contacts inside the thermal flasher are burned. The flasher is
really simple inside: A little bimetal strip (remember those from 6th
grade science class?) conducts power until it gets hot, then it bends away
from the contact and opens the circuit. Petoink. When it cools it bends
back and closes the circuit again. The higher the electrical load the
faster it gets hot and the higher the flash rate, that's why adding a
trailer with lights makes your lights flash faster and having a burned out
bulb makes them flash slower -- or not at all.
Try your 4-way flashers. If they all work then you know that it isn't a
wiring harness problem, if they don't flash but come on with a very faint
glow (that you won't be able to see under sunlight), you've probably got a
ground problem.
Happy hunting.
11-12-2003, 02:14 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
It sounds like another case of poor maintenance.
Most of you guys keep up on things like oil changes, tire rotation, brake
fluid flush, gear oil changes, but when was the last time you changed your
blinker fluid? I change mine every two years, and prefer to use a premium
DOT 7 synthetic fluid like "Kale's" rather than the cheap DOT 6 sold at most
parts stores.
Be sure and select the proper viscosity for the altitude where you live.
http://www.kalecoauto.com (maintenance page)
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
11-12-2003, 02:14 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
It sounds like another case of poor maintenance.
Most of you guys keep up on things like oil changes, tire rotation, brake
fluid flush, gear oil changes, but when was the last time you changed your
blinker fluid? I change mine every two years, and prefer to use a premium
DOT 7 synthetic fluid like "Kale's" rather than the cheap DOT 6 sold at most
parts stores.
Be sure and select the proper viscosity for the altitude where you live.
http://www.kalecoauto.com (maintenance page)
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
11-12-2003, 02:14 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
It sounds like another case of poor maintenance.
Most of you guys keep up on things like oil changes, tire rotation, brake
fluid flush, gear oil changes, but when was the last time you changed your
blinker fluid? I change mine every two years, and prefer to use a premium
DOT 7 synthetic fluid like "Kale's" rather than the cheap DOT 6 sold at most
parts stores.
Be sure and select the proper viscosity for the altitude where you live.
http://www.kalecoauto.com (maintenance page)
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
11-12-2003, 02:35 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Turn Signal Problems?
Blinker Fluid?
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:bou0qj$1i2phs$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
> It sounds like another case of poor maintenance.
> Most of you guys keep up on things like oil changes, tire rotation, brake
> fluid flush, gear oil changes, but when was the last time you changed your
> blinker fluid? I change mine every two years, and prefer to use a premium
> DOT 7 synthetic fluid like "Kale's" rather than the cheap DOT 6 sold at
most
> parts stores.
> Be sure and select the proper viscosity for the altitude where you live.
> http://www.kalecoauto.com (maintenance page)
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:bou0qj$1i2phs$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
> It sounds like another case of poor maintenance.
> Most of you guys keep up on things like oil changes, tire rotation, brake
> fluid flush, gear oil changes, but when was the last time you changed your
> blinker fluid? I change mine every two years, and prefer to use a premium
> DOT 7 synthetic fluid like "Kale's" rather than the cheap DOT 6 sold at
most
> parts stores.
> Be sure and select the proper viscosity for the altitude where you live.
> http://www.kalecoauto.com (maintenance page)
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>
