Re: turn signal problem 93 yj
I dunno if this will help, but on the odd chance that it will, this is from the Painless Wiring manual for my `79 harness where it connects to my signal switch. Yours might be the same (the Painless harnesses are _generally_ the same as the OEM, but not always). Pink (14ga) Emer. Flasher B+ Red/White Turn Signal Flasher B+ Black/White Horn relay Lt. Green Rt. Rear Turn lamp Lt. Green/Black Lt. Rear Turn lamp Green Rt. Front Turn lamp Pink (16ga) Brake Switch Green/Black LT. Front Turn lamp If this chart is true for your Jeep, you might try pulling the connector apart at the bottom of the steering column and feeding B+ directly to the wire for the Rt. rear lamp to see if it lights. I'm guessing that you can connect up a new switch and test it before pulling your column apart. As I recall, I had trouble feeding the new switch harness through my column. You might consider attaching a bit of scrap wire to the old connector before pulling it to give you something to fish the new one back down. Good luck. On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Ben Black wrote: > Yah, I don't doubt that it'll be a real pain. I've gone through all of the > other options, though. None of the rest of the potential problems seem to > be able to explain both of the problems. I've traced the problem into the > dash/column using a volt meter and a resistance gague. I think that the > switch in the column is the only thing left that could be causing the > problems, and as I said, this problem explains both of the lights being out. > My horn also stopped working recently, and this should give me an > opportunity to trace that problem back into the steering column (I've > already gone through taking off the top of the steering wheel and making > sure all of the contacts are clean). Thanks for your help. Wish me luck > with the teardown and rebuild. > ~Ben > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:403A7632.FD87B377@cox.net... > > Hi Ben, > > If there's no power to the tail light socket, on braking, or > > signaling. Make doubly sure with a volt meter grounded to frame, because > > it no fun going into the column. Similar to this Chevy: > > http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel01.htm Ninety > > nine percent of the switch failures are due to an electrical short so, > > find that first. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > Ben Black wrote: > > > > > > I've checked the grounding. That's not the problem. I think that Lee > > > nailed the problem in the above posting. > > > > > > So the final opinion is that the problem is in the column. Thanks for > all > > > of the help! > > > > > > ~Ben > > > |
Re: turn signal problem 93 yj
I dunno if this will help, but on the odd chance that it will, this is from the Painless Wiring manual for my `79 harness where it connects to my signal switch. Yours might be the same (the Painless harnesses are _generally_ the same as the OEM, but not always). Pink (14ga) Emer. Flasher B+ Red/White Turn Signal Flasher B+ Black/White Horn relay Lt. Green Rt. Rear Turn lamp Lt. Green/Black Lt. Rear Turn lamp Green Rt. Front Turn lamp Pink (16ga) Brake Switch Green/Black LT. Front Turn lamp If this chart is true for your Jeep, you might try pulling the connector apart at the bottom of the steering column and feeding B+ directly to the wire for the Rt. rear lamp to see if it lights. I'm guessing that you can connect up a new switch and test it before pulling your column apart. As I recall, I had trouble feeding the new switch harness through my column. You might consider attaching a bit of scrap wire to the old connector before pulling it to give you something to fish the new one back down. Good luck. On Mon, 23 Feb 2004, Ben Black wrote: > Yah, I don't doubt that it'll be a real pain. I've gone through all of the > other options, though. None of the rest of the potential problems seem to > be able to explain both of the problems. I've traced the problem into the > dash/column using a volt meter and a resistance gague. I think that the > switch in the column is the only thing left that could be causing the > problems, and as I said, this problem explains both of the lights being out. > My horn also stopped working recently, and this should give me an > opportunity to trace that problem back into the steering column (I've > already gone through taking off the top of the steering wheel and making > sure all of the contacts are clean). Thanks for your help. Wish me luck > with the teardown and rebuild. > ~Ben > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message > news:403A7632.FD87B377@cox.net... > > Hi Ben, > > If there's no power to the tail light socket, on braking, or > > signaling. Make doubly sure with a volt meter grounded to frame, because > > it no fun going into the column. Similar to this Chevy: > > http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel01.htm Ninety > > nine percent of the switch failures are due to an electrical short so, > > find that first. > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > > > Ben Black wrote: > > > > > > I've checked the grounding. That's not the problem. I think that Lee > > > nailed the problem in the above posting. > > > > > > So the final opinion is that the problem is in the column. Thanks for > all > > > of the help! > > > > > > ~Ben > > > |
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