Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
11-15-2003, 05:48 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> The diagnoses so far seem to be:
>
> -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> -Lifter tapping
>
> I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> success.
>
> What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> got rid of the ticking?
Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
You did make sure it's not the distributor making
that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
option but to replace it.
--
DougW
> The diagnoses so far seem to be:
>
> -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> -Lifter tapping
>
> I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> success.
>
> What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> got rid of the ticking?
Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
You did make sure it's not the distributor making
that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
option but to replace it.
--
DougW
11-15-2003, 05:48 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> The diagnoses so far seem to be:
>
> -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> -Lifter tapping
>
> I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> success.
>
> What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> got rid of the ticking?
Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
You did make sure it's not the distributor making
that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
option but to replace it.
--
DougW
> The diagnoses so far seem to be:
>
> -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> -Lifter tapping
>
> I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> success.
>
> What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> got rid of the ticking?
Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
You did make sure it's not the distributor making
that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
option but to replace it.
--
DougW
11-15-2003, 09:07 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-15-2003, 09:07 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-15-2003, 09:07 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
to work.
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 22:48:26 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Robert Goldpalm did pass the time by typing:
> > The diagnoses so far seem to be:
> >
> > -lifter that is not staying pumped up
> > -Lifter tapping
> >
> > I already did the "ATF in Engine Oil" trick without
> > success.
> >
> > What to do? Anybody had an identical problem and
> > got rid of the ticking?
>
> Might have to pull the head and replace the lifter.
> You did make sure it's not the distributor making
> that noise. Take the cap off and see if the rotor
> will move side-to-side. It shouldn't move at all.
>
> Could try running synthetic oil, that seems to have
> make my lifters much more quiet, but they still tick
> a bit. But if the lifter has collapsed you have no
> option but to replace it.
>
--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
11-15-2003, 09:38 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
11-15-2003, 09:38 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
11-15-2003, 09:38 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
> to work.
Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
of the:
cylinder head cover
rocker assemblies
push rod
intake and exhaust manifold.
Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
the FSM claims is needed.
I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
is a good idea first...
SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
--
My governor can kick your governor's ***
11-16-2003, 03:18 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Lon Stowell did pass the time by typing:
> Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
>> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
>> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
>> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
>> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
>> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
>> to work.
>
> Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
> of the:
> cylinder head cover
> rocker assemblies
> push rod
> intake and exhaust manifold.
>
> Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
> buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
> the FSM claims is needed.
>
> I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
> is a good idea first...
>
> SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
> down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
> treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
aka. Top cylinder lube. Marvelous Mystery Oil..
But to pull the lifters you have to take the head off and that
does require removal of the rocker assembly and manifolds.
... it's not that hard to do ..
If you do this... First time you can re-use the head bolts.
Second time you need to use new head bolts.
Always use a new gasket. Even if the book says otherwise.
--
DougW
> Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
>> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
>> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
>> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
>> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
>> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
>> to work.
>
> Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
> of the:
> cylinder head cover
> rocker assemblies
> push rod
> intake and exhaust manifold.
>
> Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
> buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
> the FSM claims is needed.
>
> I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
> is a good idea first...
>
> SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
> down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
> treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
aka. Top cylinder lube. Marvelous Mystery Oil..
But to pull the lifters you have to take the head off and that
does require removal of the rocker assembly and manifolds.
... it's not that hard to do ..
If you do this... First time you can re-use the head bolts.
Second time you need to use new head bolts.
Always use a new gasket. Even if the book says otherwise.
--
DougW
11-16-2003, 03:18 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ttick, tick, tick from the engine
Lon Stowell did pass the time by typing:
> Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
>> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
>> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
>> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
>> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
>> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
>> to work.
>
> Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
> of the:
> cylinder head cover
> rocker assemblies
> push rod
> intake and exhaust manifold.
>
> Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
> buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
> the FSM claims is needed.
>
> I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
> is a good idea first...
>
> SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
> down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
> treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
aka. Top cylinder lube. Marvelous Mystery Oil..
But to pull the lifters you have to take the head off and that
does require removal of the rocker assembly and manifolds.
... it's not that hard to do ..
If you do this... First time you can re-use the head bolts.
Second time you need to use new head bolts.
Always use a new gasket. Even if the book says otherwise.
--
DougW
> Approximately 11/15/03 18:07, Will Honea uttered for posterity:
>> Lifter tapping and lifter not pumped up amount to the same thing.
>> Problem with Doug's idea is that the lifters are in the bottom of the
>> block and I don't think they can be replaced from the top so you're
>> looking at having to pull the cam shaft. I don't know that it's
>> doable in place - not because of accessibility but you run out of room
>> to work.
>
> Claim is that they can be removed from the top, but needs removal
> of the:
> cylinder head cover
> rocker assemblies
> push rod
> intake and exhaust manifold.
>
> Whether or not the Chrysler C-4129-A tool is available to
> buy and use is unknown, but with it on the 4.0 that is all
> the FSM claims is needed.
>
> I still think checking the distributor as someone else noted
> is a good idea first...
>
> SOMETIMES a ticking lifter can be convinced to quit leaking
> down by a shot of motor honey or other similar to stp oil
> treatment... as a diagnostic not a fix.
aka. Top cylinder lube. Marvelous Mystery Oil..
But to pull the lifters you have to take the head off and that
does require removal of the rocker assembly and manifolds.
... it's not that hard to do ..
If you do this... First time you can re-use the head bolts.
Second time you need to use new head bolts.
Always use a new gasket. Even if the book says otherwise.
--
DougW
