Tricks for removing lug nuts
05-25-2006, 04:57 AM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
yep those bolt removers from sears are great that were mentioned monday
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
05-25-2006, 04:57 AM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
yep those bolt removers from sears are great that were mentioned monday
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
05-25-2006, 08:47 AM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
05-25-2006, 08:47 AM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
05-25-2006, 08:47 AM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
lugnut. :)
--
DougW
05-25-2006, 09:30 AM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
It's an 18mm when the cap comes off.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
05-25-2006, 09:30 AM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
It's an 18mm when the cap comes off.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
05-25-2006, 09:30 AM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
It's an 18mm when the cap comes off.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Herb Leong wrote:
>
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
05-25-2006, 09:37 AM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
In article <6Hhdg.50787$9c6.37914@dukeread11>,
DougW <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
#Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
#
#> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
#> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
#> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
#> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
#> sheet metal tears.
#
#Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
#Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
They were used on the YJ so I can't blame the new German company
for that. My guess to the reason why is that the sheet metal is
cheaper to make pretty looking than a solid lug nut.
#I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
#metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
I lost one while changing a tire a week after buying my first YJ.
The POS wrench that came with the car was way less than useless as
I think it contributed to the cap coming off.
I was sooo pissed... Had to tow the bugger to a shop. I carried
a long handled Craftsman rachet, two 12-point sockets, and a AAA
card afterwards. Then after I lost my 5th (or 8th?) cap, I gave
up and got solid lug nuts. Maybe I should have kept the metric
nuts--everything else seems to be either Torx or metric on a Jeep
nowadays...
#On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
#lugnut. :)
I guess, but it's a crappy locking lug nut when anyone with a metric
socket or tireiron can make off with your rims. ;-)
/herb
DougW <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
#Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
#
#> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
#> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
#> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
#> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
#> sheet metal tears.
#
#Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
#Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
They were used on the YJ so I can't blame the new German company
for that. My guess to the reason why is that the sheet metal is
cheaper to make pretty looking than a solid lug nut.
#I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
#metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
I lost one while changing a tire a week after buying my first YJ.
The POS wrench that came with the car was way less than useless as
I think it contributed to the cap coming off.
I was sooo pissed... Had to tow the bugger to a shop. I carried
a long handled Craftsman rachet, two 12-point sockets, and a AAA
card afterwards. Then after I lost my 5th (or 8th?) cap, I gave
up and got solid lug nuts. Maybe I should have kept the metric
nuts--everything else seems to be either Torx or metric on a Jeep
nowadays...
#On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
#lugnut. :)
I guess, but it's a crappy locking lug nut when anyone with a metric
socket or tireiron can make off with your rims. ;-)
/herb
05-25-2006, 09:37 AM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
In article <6Hhdg.50787$9c6.37914@dukeread11>,
DougW <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
#Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
#
#> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
#> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
#> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
#> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
#> sheet metal tears.
#
#Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
#Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
They were used on the YJ so I can't blame the new German company
for that. My guess to the reason why is that the sheet metal is
cheaper to make pretty looking than a solid lug nut.
#I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
#metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
I lost one while changing a tire a week after buying my first YJ.
The POS wrench that came with the car was way less than useless as
I think it contributed to the cap coming off.
I was sooo pissed... Had to tow the bugger to a shop. I carried
a long handled Craftsman rachet, two 12-point sockets, and a AAA
card afterwards. Then after I lost my 5th (or 8th?) cap, I gave
up and got solid lug nuts. Maybe I should have kept the metric
nuts--everything else seems to be either Torx or metric on a Jeep
nowadays...
#On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
#lugnut. :)
I guess, but it's a crappy locking lug nut when anyone with a metric
socket or tireiron can make off with your rims. ;-)
/herb
DougW <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
#Herb Leong did pass the time by typing:
#
#> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
#> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
#> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
#> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
#> sheet metal tears.
#
#Not to hijack the thread, but what is up with the metal cap crap?
#Guess it's one better than snap on plastic but sheesh...
They were used on the YJ so I can't blame the new German company
for that. My guess to the reason why is that the sheet metal is
cheaper to make pretty looking than a solid lug nut.
#I lost one of mine on the ZJ, but up till then never realized they were
#metal covers. Plan on getting some new (solid) lugnuts next time.
I lost one while changing a tire a week after buying my first YJ.
The POS wrench that came with the car was way less than useless as
I think it contributed to the cap coming off.
I was sooo pissed... Had to tow the bugger to a shop. I carried
a long handled Craftsman rachet, two 12-point sockets, and a AAA
card afterwards. Then after I lost my 5th (or 8th?) cap, I gave
up and got solid lug nuts. Maybe I should have kept the metric
nuts--everything else seems to be either Torx or metric on a Jeep
nowadays...
#On the plus side, once that metal comes off you basically have a locking
#lugnut. :)
I guess, but it's a crappy locking lug nut when anyone with a metric
socket or tireiron can make off with your rims. ;-)
/herb
