Tricks for removing lug nuts
05-22-2006, 11:57 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
05-22-2006, 11:57 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
05-22-2006, 11:57 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
> In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
>>
>
> Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> wasn't safe but did get the job done.
You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
and rafting.
--
DougW
05-23-2006, 12:58 AM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-23-2006, 12:58 AM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-23-2006, 12:58 AM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
news:pKvcg.50659$9c6.33305@dukeread11...
> aGraham did pass the time by typing:
> > In article <Rftcg.7673$JW5.5473@southeast.rr.com>,
> > Jeff DeWitt <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> It also looks really cool when you spray it onto a flame <BG>.
> >>
> >
> > Yeah, that is how we got our camp fire started this weekend when
> > everyone forgot the lighter fluid and the wood was a little wet...
> > wasn't safe but did get the job done.
>
> You can also try this one. Take some cardboard and cut it to 2"x2"
> stick a strike anywhere match into one of the holes (or a couple)
> so the head just barely sticks out. Dip the thing in hot wax. Let
> it dry and store in a ziplock bag. (keeps any melting wax from getting
> on things in the car) The wax keeps the match safe and dry and the
> rest acts as a real good firestarter. Used them all the time camping
> and rafting.
>
I like Coghlan's Fire Paste, Mautz Fire Ribbon or the equivalent, and a Bic
butane lighter all packed in a Zip-Loc bag. Total weight about five ounces.
Earle
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-25-2006, 04:21 AM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
05-25-2006, 04:21 AM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
05-25-2006, 04:21 AM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
#I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
#but 1 lug nut.
Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
"adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
sheet metal tears.
#I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
#doing the least damage?
Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
repeat.
If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
quality solid ones.
#What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
Front or rear?
/herb
05-25-2006, 04:57 AM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tricks for removing lug nuts
yep those bolt removers from sears are great that were mentioned monday
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
SCOTT
"Herb Leong" <herb@urusei.net> wrote in message
news:7OKdne8uBZCB9OjZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> In article <1148307369.983360.37300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups. com>,
> testert555@gmail.com <testert555@gmail.com> wrote:
> #I got a new set of wheels/tires for my 91. I was able to loosen all
> #but 1 lug nut.
> Put the other 4 back on. Get them nice and *hand*tool* tight.
>
> Did the cap come off the lug nut? If it did, you now have a metric lug
> nut. 17mm or 18mm, iirc. If you still have the cap, you can use it to
> "adapt" the metric lug nut back to a 3/4" one. The problem is that the
> sheet metal is kinda fragile and it only works once or twice before the
> sheet metal tears.
>
> #I've read lots of suggestions, but need to know, how do I proceed with
> #doing the least damage?
>
> Go to Sears and buy this or something equivalent to it:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944816000
>
> You can also use a flex head handle without the ratchet:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944202000
> I just find the ratchet is more useful overall...
>
> You want the longer handle. This way, you don't need a cheater bar.
>
> The flex head lets you have a bit more working room away from the
> sidewall while still remaining fairly close to the lug nut. The
> problem with most tire irons is that it seems that half your effort is
> being used to keep the tire iron from slipping off the lug nut and that
> you can never get enough leverage. Never mind most have cheapie
> 6-point sockets made out of pot metal.
>
> Use a 12-point 3/4 inch socket (if your cap came off, then you will
> need a 12-point 18mm (or was it 17mm?) socket).
>
> If the lug nut is totally stripped to hell, then you will need this:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000
>
> Once you loosen the bad nut tiny bit, leave it on and loosen the other
> nuts a tiny bit in a star pattern, then loosen the bad one again and
> repeat.
>
> If you have stock sheet-metal covered lug nuts, replace them with good
> quality solid ones.
>
> #What's involved with replacing the studs if it comes to that?
> Front or rear?
>
> /herb
