CRWLR

The proper way to tow a CJ with the D300 tcase is to put the tcase in N and
put the trans in either 1 or R, or P if an automatic. They say to leave the
front hubs unlocked and to stop every 200 miles and run the motor (with the
levers in the same position as for towing, except the auto should be taken
out of P) to stir the oil in the tcase and splash it onto the output shaft
gears and bearings.

I leave my front hubs locked when I tow. The idea is that the front
driveline will turn and spin the gears in the tcase while you are driving,
and this will keep the output gears and bearings well lubricated.



"Brandy Wood" <b-wood11NOSPAM@ti.com> wrote in message
news:cm80i5$6bq$1@home.itg.ti.com...
> Just curious, but what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> transmission and what gear should it be in while towing. Please let me
> know. I just want to make sure that I do it correctly this coming
thursday
> for the deer lease.
> bw
>
>

CRWLR

The proper way to tow a CJ with the D300 tcase is to put the tcase in N and
put the trans in either 1 or R, or P if an automatic. They say to leave the
front hubs unlocked and to stop every 200 miles and run the motor (with the
levers in the same position as for towing, except the auto should be taken
out of P) to stir the oil in the tcase and splash it onto the output shaft
gears and bearings.

I leave my front hubs locked when I tow. The idea is that the front
driveline will turn and spin the gears in the tcase while you are driving,
and this will keep the output gears and bearings well lubricated.



"Brandy Wood" <b-wood11NOSPAM@ti.com> wrote in message
news:cm80i5$6bq$1@home.itg.ti.com...
> Just curious, but what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> transmission and what gear should it be in while towing. Please let me
> know. I just want to make sure that I do it correctly this coming
thursday
> for the deer lease.
> bw
>
>

CRWLR

It is only necessary to remove the rear drive shaft, there is no need to
take the front one off.

And, the rear shaft only has to be removed from the diff. It can be left
connected to the tcase.

An alternative is that the the front hubs remain locked so the front drive
is spinning. Since the front output shaft is in the oil in the tcase, it
will splash oil up and onto the output shaft for the rear, keeping the gears
and bearings well oiled.



"HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
news:2upghnF2ctorfU1@uni-berlin.de...
> I towed my 85 cj7 with a dana 300 transfer case and I was told to remove
the
> driveshafts because the dana 300 does not oil itself when the engine is
not
> running. I'm not sure if this is true but mine made a 2000 mile trip with
no
> problems. Unlock the front hubs, remove the drive shafts (tape over the
ends
> of the u-joints, so the caps don't fall off) and tow away.
>
> --
> _____________________
> HomeBrewer
> 85CJ7 (in Progress)
> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/
> 99XJ Sport
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
> "Brandy Wood" <b-wood11NOSPAM@ti.com> wrote in message
> news:cm80i5$6bq$1@home.itg.ti.com...
> > Just curious, but what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> > transmission and what gear should it be in while towing. Please let me
> > know. I just want to make sure that I do it correctly this coming
> > thursday
> > for the deer lease.
> > bw
> >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

It is only necessary to remove the rear drive shaft, there is no need to
take the front one off.

And, the rear shaft only has to be removed from the diff. It can be left
connected to the tcase.

An alternative is that the the front hubs remain locked so the front drive
is spinning. Since the front output shaft is in the oil in the tcase, it
will splash oil up and onto the output shaft for the rear, keeping the gears
and bearings well oiled.



"HomeBrewer" <85cj7XXX@***.net> wrote in message
news:2upghnF2ctorfU1@uni-berlin.de...
> I towed my 85 cj7 with a dana 300 transfer case and I was told to remove
the
> driveshafts because the dana 300 does not oil itself when the engine is
not
> running. I'm not sure if this is true but mine made a 2000 mile trip with
no
> problems. Unlock the front hubs, remove the drive shafts (tape over the
ends
> of the u-joints, so the caps don't fall off) and tow away.
>
> --
> _____________________
> HomeBrewer
> 85CJ7 (in Progress)
> http://85cj7.blogspot.com/
> 99XJ Sport
> Remove the xxx to reply!
>
> "Brandy Wood" <b-wood11NOSPAM@ti.com> wrote in message
> news:cm80i5$6bq$1@home.itg.ti.com...
> > Just curious, but what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> > transmission and what gear should it be in while towing. Please let me
> > know. I just want to make sure that I do it correctly this coming
> > thursday
> > for the deer lease.
> > bw
> >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4187FDAA.C32914A4@sympatico.ca...
> I don't believe that is right at all for the 300.
>
> When the hubs are open, the front driveshaft does not move. Therefore I
> think the oil gets slung from the front input shaft like my owners
> manual says.
>
> The owners manual for the 85 and 86 states you have to run the engine in
> gear with the t-case in neutral every hundred miles or so to lube up the
> t-case.
>
> If locking the front hubs would keep it lubed up, you would think the
> manual would say so to avoid having to stop and run the engine. etc...
>

Leaving the hubs locked will most certainly cause the tcase oil to be
circulated throughout the tcase.





> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Does the front output shaft sling the oil through the T-case on a Dana
300,
> > or is it the input shaft? I seem to recall it was the front output
shaft, so
> > when flat-towing you could lock in the front hubs to keep it lubed, put
the
> > Tcase in Neutral, tranny in gear, and steering column unlocked.
> >
> > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> > news:20041102135850.01474.00000003@mb-m18.aol.com...
> > > >what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> > > >transmission and what gear should it be in while towing.
> > >
> > > Transfer case in neutral, transmission in 3rd gear. You can lock one
of
> > the
> > > front hubs if you want, but it isn't really necessary.
> > >
> > > Before you head out, start the engine, run it at about 1200 or so rpm
for
> > a
> > > minute + to sling oil throughout the transfer case. Stop every 200
miles
> > or so
> > > and repeat procedure.
> > >
> > > You do not need to remove driveshafts, just be sure that you sling the
oil
> > in
> > > the transfer case on a regular basis.
> > >
> > > Als, be sure your steering column is NOT locked while you tow.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Robert Bills
> > > KG6LMV
> > > Orange County CA
> > >
> > > '83 CJ-7
> > > '46 Bantam BT3C
> > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel
> > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
> > >

CRWLR

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4187FDAA.C32914A4@sympatico.ca...
> I don't believe that is right at all for the 300.
>
> When the hubs are open, the front driveshaft does not move. Therefore I
> think the oil gets slung from the front input shaft like my owners
> manual says.
>
> The owners manual for the 85 and 86 states you have to run the engine in
> gear with the t-case in neutral every hundred miles or so to lube up the
> t-case.
>
> If locking the front hubs would keep it lubed up, you would think the
> manual would say so to avoid having to stop and run the engine. etc...
>

Leaving the hubs locked will most certainly cause the tcase oil to be
circulated throughout the tcase.





> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Does the front output shaft sling the oil through the T-case on a Dana
300,
> > or is it the input shaft? I seem to recall it was the front output
shaft, so
> > when flat-towing you could lock in the front hubs to keep it lubed, put
the
> > Tcase in Neutral, tranny in gear, and steering column unlocked.
> >
> > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> > news:20041102135850.01474.00000003@mb-m18.aol.com...
> > > >what is the proper way to set the transfer and
> > > >transmission and what gear should it be in while towing.
> > >
> > > Transfer case in neutral, transmission in 3rd gear. You can lock one
of
> > the
> > > front hubs if you want, but it isn't really necessary.
> > >
> > > Before you head out, start the engine, run it at about 1200 or so rpm
for
> > a
> > > minute + to sling oil throughout the transfer case. Stop every 200
miles
> > or so
> > > and repeat procedure.
> > >
> > > You do not need to remove driveshafts, just be sure that you sling the
oil
> > in
> > > the transfer case on a regular basis.
> > >
> > > Als, be sure your steering column is NOT locked while you tow.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Robert Bills
> > > KG6LMV
> > > Orange County CA
> > >
> > > '83 CJ-7
> > > '46 Bantam BT3C
> > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel
> > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
> > >

CRWLR

There is only 4 nuts and bolts. Only one end of the rear drive shaft need be
disconnected, the other end (the tcase end) can remain connected and the
front does not need to be removed at all.




"Onlyinajeepcj7" <onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041102173116.25011.00000007@mb-m17.aol.com...
> Why even put the wear and tear on the components in the first place. It's
8
> small bolts/nuts and thats it....no stopping every X hundred of miles. My
vote
> is just remove the driveshaft or remove the rear end and wire it up (only
4
> little bolts then)

CRWLR

There is only 4 nuts and bolts. Only one end of the rear drive shaft need be
disconnected, the other end (the tcase end) can remain connected and the
front does not need to be removed at all.




"Onlyinajeepcj7" <onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041102173116.25011.00000007@mb-m17.aol.com...
> Why even put the wear and tear on the components in the first place. It's
8
> small bolts/nuts and thats it....no stopping every X hundred of miles. My
vote
> is just remove the driveshaft or remove the rear end and wire it up (only
4
> little bolts then)

Rusted

I use some black electric tape to tape the bearing caps to the ujoint so
nothing gets lost. Then I wire the driveline up to the frame.

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10oia8is1bv4ga5@corp.supernews.com...
> There is only 4 nuts and bolts. Only one end of the rear drive shaft need
> be
> disconnected, the other end (the tcase end) can remain connected and the
> front does not need to be removed at all.
>
>
>
>
> "Onlyinajeepcj7" <onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20041102173116.25011.00000007@mb-m17.aol.com...
>> Why even put the wear and tear on the components in the first place. It's
> 8
>> small bolts/nuts and thats it....no stopping every X hundred of miles.
>> My
> vote
>> is just remove the driveshaft or remove the rear end and wire it up (only
> 4
>> little bolts then)
>
>

Rusted

I use some black electric tape to tape the bearing caps to the ujoint so
nothing gets lost. Then I wire the driveline up to the frame.

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10oia8is1bv4ga5@corp.supernews.com...
> There is only 4 nuts and bolts. Only one end of the rear drive shaft need
> be
> disconnected, the other end (the tcase end) can remain connected and the
> front does not need to be removed at all.
>
>
>
>
> "Onlyinajeepcj7" <onlyinajeepcj7@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20041102173116.25011.00000007@mb-m17.aol.com...
>> Why even put the wear and tear on the components in the first place. It's
> 8
>> small bolts/nuts and thats it....no stopping every X hundred of miles.
>> My
> vote
>> is just remove the driveshaft or remove the rear end and wire it up (only
> 4
>> little bolts then)
>
>