TJim

Wow! RichH, you can touch up my vehicles anytime! :-)

--
Jim
--
98 TJ SE
90 SJ GW
http://www.delawareja.com/gallery/JDJeep98



"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net...
> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.
>
>
> Brett Dixon wrote:
> > Any suggestions for how-tos for minor touch up paint? I just recently
> > noticed that the vent-panel (between the windshield and the hood) has
> > taken a good enough hit to rub some paint off... My guess is it's from
> > thepost-Isabel driving I did where there were some trees hanging down
> > into the road.
> >
> > So, I can see metal... Any suggestions on the proper way to prep and
> > paint on the cheap? I know it's going to be visible if someone looks
> > closely, but I can live with that, but I don't want it to rust and
> > ------. It's a total area about the size of a quarter with a few
> > 'splotches' of missing paint.
> >
> > All help is appreciated!
>

TJim

Wow! RichH, you can touch up my vehicles anytime! :-)

--
Jim
--
98 TJ SE
90 SJ GW
http://www.delawareja.com/gallery/JDJeep98



"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net...
> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.
>
>
> Brett Dixon wrote:
> > Any suggestions for how-tos for minor touch up paint? I just recently
> > noticed that the vent-panel (between the windshield and the hood) has
> > taken a good enough hit to rub some paint off... My guess is it's from
> > thepost-Isabel driving I did where there were some trees hanging down
> > into the road.
> >
> > So, I can see metal... Any suggestions on the proper way to prep and
> > paint on the cheap? I know it's going to be visible if someone looks
> > closely, but I can live with that, but I don't want it to rust and
> > ------. It's a total area about the size of a quarter with a few
> > 'splotches' of missing paint.
> >
> > All help is appreciated!
>

TJim

Wow! RichH, you can touch up my vehicles anytime! :-)

--
Jim
--
98 TJ SE
90 SJ GW
http://www.delawareja.com/gallery/JDJeep98



"RichH" <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net...
> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.
>
>
> Brett Dixon wrote:
> > Any suggestions for how-tos for minor touch up paint? I just recently
> > noticed that the vent-panel (between the windshield and the hood) has
> > taken a good enough hit to rub some paint off... My guess is it's from
> > thepost-Isabel driving I did where there were some trees hanging down
> > into the road.
> >
> > So, I can see metal... Any suggestions on the proper way to prep and
> > paint on the cheap? I know it's going to be visible if someone looks
> > closely, but I can live with that, but I don't want it to rust and
> > ------. It's a total area about the size of a quarter with a few
> > 'splotches' of missing paint.
> >
> > All help is appreciated!
>

Brett Dixon

In article <bmm6rt$jv6$1@reader10.wxs.nl>,
" Phil Di Guillielmo" <see_my_site@online.please> wrote:

> HI,
> don't know wich vehicle you got and if the colour is metallic based,
> but when I get these things on my Army ****** jeep, I use some Epoxy spray
> against the rust,
> and then manually repaint the spot with the original paint.
> But of course, non metallic olive drab colour is easy to use with a brush,
> you can't see the difference afterwards.
> Phil

It's a black '99 TJ... Unfortunately, scheduling the time to do it right
is not going to be fun... And I am an apartment dweller...

Brett Dixon

In article <bmm6rt$jv6$1@reader10.wxs.nl>,
" Phil Di Guillielmo" <see_my_site@online.please> wrote:

> HI,
> don't know wich vehicle you got and if the colour is metallic based,
> but when I get these things on my Army ****** jeep, I use some Epoxy spray
> against the rust,
> and then manually repaint the spot with the original paint.
> But of course, non metallic olive drab colour is easy to use with a brush,
> you can't see the difference afterwards.
> Phil

It's a black '99 TJ... Unfortunately, scheduling the time to do it right
is not going to be fun... And I am an apartment dweller...

Brett Dixon

In article <bmm6rt$jv6$1@reader10.wxs.nl>,
" Phil Di Guillielmo" <see_my_site@online.please> wrote:

> HI,
> don't know wich vehicle you got and if the colour is metallic based,
> but when I get these things on my Army ****** jeep, I use some Epoxy spray
> against the rust,
> and then manually repaint the spot with the original paint.
> But of course, non metallic olive drab colour is easy to use with a brush,
> you can't see the difference afterwards.
> Phil

It's a black '99 TJ... Unfortunately, scheduling the time to do it right
is not going to be fun... And I am an apartment dweller...

Brett Dixon

In article <3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net>, RichH <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net>
wrote:

> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.

THanks. This definitely sounds like the way to do it RIGHT...
Unfortunately, do to limited worka rea, I may end up doing it wrong, or
looking for the body piece at a junkyard in OK shape, and swap out until
I can...

(Anyone swapped the vented panel that's between the hood & windshield on
a TJ?)

Brett Dixon

In article <3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net>, RichH <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net>
wrote:

> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.

THanks. This definitely sounds like the way to do it RIGHT...
Unfortunately, do to limited worka rea, I may end up doing it wrong, or
looking for the body piece at a junkyard in OK shape, and swap out until
I can...

(Anyone swapped the vented panel that's between the hood & windshield on
a TJ?)

Brett Dixon

In article <3F94B734.4010507@NOSPAM.net>, RichH <RhmpL33@NOSPAM.net>
wrote:

> Treat the exposed bare metal surface with a mixture of phosphoric acid
> and water (available in a auto paint supply house or marine supply).
> This will 'blue' the metal to a protective ferrous oxide and will reform
> any ferric oxide (bad rust) that has started to form. Dont even think of
> overcoating with primer or paint until you 'pickle' the surface.
>
> Best cheapo repair is to find a auto paint shop/distribuitor who will
> make-up a spray can or two of the original paint (artisticly blended to
> account for fade, etc.) carefully mask off the area with 3M fine line
> tape and use a sharp razor knife to cut away the tape exposing ONLY the
> ding. Fill the ding with primer, let dry a few days. Sand flat with a
> very small rubber block and wet & dry 400 or 600 grit paper (use water
> and a few drops of diswash detergent... This step is to level the primer
> surface with the original --- dont sand deeply into the surrounding
> paint. Then spray a few *dry* coats of finish, let dry a few days then
> flat sand it all with 1500 then 2000 wet&dry paper, then buff with a
> power buffer with real lambswool bonnet and 2000 grit compound. If your
> original finish has a clear coat, then mist on a flat spray a final
> clear coat, then hand rub/buff out.

THanks. This definitely sounds like the way to do it RIGHT...
Unfortunately, do to limited worka rea, I may end up doing it wrong, or
looking for the body piece at a junkyard in OK shape, and swap out until
I can...

(Anyone swapped the vented panel that's between the hood & windshield on
a TJ?)