Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts out
is ?

I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other than
get the bolts drilled out ?

Thanks
Keith

 

You might try a good quality impact bit.



"Keith Orbell" <quite98@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5s-dnfvM67co7c7ZRVn-uA@wideopenwest.com...
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
> out is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
> than get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith
>

 

You might try a good quality impact bit.



"Keith Orbell" <quite98@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5s-dnfvM67co7c7ZRVn-uA@wideopenwest.com...
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
> out is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
> than get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith
>

 

You might try a good quality impact bit.



"Keith Orbell" <quite98@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5s-dnfvM67co7c7ZRVn-uA@wideopenwest.com...
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
> out is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
> than get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith
>

 

From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
reams out the screw faster than you can blink.

I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
requires a torch to de-activate.

I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.

I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
paint with the torch.

Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
bolt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Keith Orbell wrote:
>
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts out
> is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other than
> get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith

 

From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
reams out the screw faster than you can blink.

I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
requires a torch to de-activate.

I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.

I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
paint with the torch.

Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
bolt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Keith Orbell wrote:
>
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts out
> is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other than
> get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith

 

From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
reams out the screw faster than you can blink.

I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
requires a torch to de-activate.

I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.

I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
paint with the torch.

Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
bolt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Keith Orbell wrote:
>
> Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts out
> is ?
>
> I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head rather
> than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in PB
> blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other than
> get the bolts drilled out ?
>
> Thanks
> Keith

 

Machine shop where I used to have busted off studs removed used left handed
drill bits. They told me sometimes the bit would grab onto the stud and
pull it right out. They are also good for practical jokes. These look like
a reasonable deal.

http://www.shopsbs.com/store/product...roducts_id=152

One thing that you absolutely do not want to use, on any busted off stud or
stripped bolt, is an "Easy Out", especially the spiral ones. Unless you
want to swell up the thing you want to remove, and then break off a piece of
hardened metal in it.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:445377C5.65D9810A@sympatico.ca...
> From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
> inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
> correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
> of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
> reams out the screw faster than you can blink.
>
> I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
> requires a torch to de-activate.
>
> I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
> burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
> will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.
>
> I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
> paint with the torch.
>
> Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
> bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
> leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
> been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
> bolt.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Keith Orbell wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
out
> > is ?
> >
> > I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head
rather
> > than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in
PB
> > blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
than
> > get the bolts drilled out ?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Keith

 

Machine shop where I used to have busted off studs removed used left handed
drill bits. They told me sometimes the bit would grab onto the stud and
pull it right out. They are also good for practical jokes. These look like
a reasonable deal.

http://www.shopsbs.com/store/product...roducts_id=152

One thing that you absolutely do not want to use, on any busted off stud or
stripped bolt, is an "Easy Out", especially the spiral ones. Unless you
want to swell up the thing you want to remove, and then break off a piece of
hardened metal in it.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:445377C5.65D9810A@sympatico.ca...
> From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
> inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
> correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
> of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
> reams out the screw faster than you can blink.
>
> I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
> requires a torch to de-activate.
>
> I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
> burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
> will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.
>
> I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
> paint with the torch.
>
> Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
> bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
> leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
> been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
> bolt.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Keith Orbell wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
out
> > is ?
> >
> > I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head
rather
> > than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in
PB
> > blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
than
> > get the bolts drilled out ?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Keith

 

Machine shop where I used to have busted off studs removed used left handed
drill bits. They told me sometimes the bit would grab onto the stud and
pull it right out. They are also good for practical jokes. These look like
a reasonable deal.

http://www.shopsbs.com/store/product...roducts_id=152

One thing that you absolutely do not want to use, on any busted off stud or
stripped bolt, is an "Easy Out", especially the spiral ones. Unless you
want to swell up the thing you want to remove, and then break off a piece of
hardened metal in it.

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:445377C5.65D9810A@sympatico.ca...
> From my experience with those torx suckers, the triple coating of paint
> inside them (under coat, color, clear coat) means you cannot fit the
> correct bit into it. So you have a tight fitting, one size too small,
> of a bit, then you apply torque and the paint layers crush and the bit
> reams out the screw faster than you can blink.
>
> I have also found that Jeep used a thread sealer on most body bolts that
> requires a torch to de-activate.
>
> I have only had success using a torch first to really heat the bolt and
> burn or peel the now soft paint out so the bit fits properly, then it
> will slowly turn out likely needing torque all the way.
>
> I expect to have to paint the hinge after and try not to tag the body
> paint with the torch.
>
> Then when I have to drill one out, I use a bit about 2/3 the size of the
> bolt and aim it slightly to one edge so I 'just' tag the threads. This
> leaves the bolt looking like a hollow 3/4 moon shape that always has
> been able to back out fairly easily and the hole will still hold a new
> bolt.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Keith Orbell wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone offer some advice on what the best way to get the hinge bolts
out
> > is ?
> >
> > I have a T40 socket which seemed to be better at grinding the head
rather
> > than actually turning one of the bolts. I gave the whole lot a soak in
PB
> > blaster last night but other than that is there anything I can do other
than
> > get the bolts drilled out ?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Keith