TJ sway bar question
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Thanks for the labeled photo! yes, definitely the offending junction
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Thanks for the labeled photo! yes, definitely the offending junction
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
That sure sounds like you need new links. I believe you are right to
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
That sure sounds like you need new links. I believe you are right to
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
That sure sounds like you need new links. I believe you are right to
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
change both.
I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
back up... LOL!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
redjeep0 wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
> have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
> turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
> fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
> pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
> stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
> flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
> anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
> identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
> the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
> town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
> same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
> driving when I feel the clunk.
> SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
> that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
> the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> rich
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Hi Mike,
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Hi Mike,
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Hi Mike,
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two
halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is
called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that
slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for
me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Mike Romain wrote:
> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks
> with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just
> unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But....
> when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them
> are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line
> things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they
> only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them
> back up... LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
The links are sold separately at your Jeep dealer if you want the original
factory link. They are interchangeable. One link fits either the right or
left side. The part number is: #52087771AB. I would suggest just replacing
them both.
You can get them from your local Jeep dealer or order them online here:
http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk
The factory list price is $47.25 and the online price is $34.49. If you
print out that page and take it to your dealer, they will probably match the
price. The dealer will most likely have the links in stock, since they wear
out at the top and are a common replacement part.
To remove the old link, you just un-bolt it at the bottom and the top. The
bottom comes right off, but the top of the link is tapered and fits into a
tapered hole in the stabilizer bar. It is really jammed in there and you
will need a tie rod separator tool to remove it. You jam the forked end of
the tool between the top of the link and the stabilizer bar and lever it up
and down until the link breaks free. The tool is inexpensive and available
at your local auto parts store.
See the tool here:
http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx
Tom
"redjeep0" <richlassiter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107582197.420654.250560@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
>
> I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
> buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
> do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
> visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
> get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
> included....
>
> thanks again, fellahs,
>
> rich
>
factory link. They are interchangeable. One link fits either the right or
left side. The part number is: #52087771AB. I would suggest just replacing
them both.
You can get them from your local Jeep dealer or order them online here:
http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk
The factory list price is $47.25 and the online price is $34.49. If you
print out that page and take it to your dealer, they will probably match the
price. The dealer will most likely have the links in stock, since they wear
out at the top and are a common replacement part.
To remove the old link, you just un-bolt it at the bottom and the top. The
bottom comes right off, but the top of the link is tapered and fits into a
tapered hole in the stabilizer bar. It is really jammed in there and you
will need a tie rod separator tool to remove it. You jam the forked end of
the tool between the top of the link and the stabilizer bar and lever it up
and down until the link breaks free. The tool is inexpensive and available
at your local auto parts store.
See the tool here:
http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx
Tom
"redjeep0" <richlassiter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107582197.420654.250560@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
>
> I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
> buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
> do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
> visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
> get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
> included....
>
> thanks again, fellahs,
>
> rich
>
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
The links are sold separately at your Jeep dealer if you want the original
factory link. They are interchangeable. One link fits either the right or
left side. The part number is: #52087771AB. I would suggest just replacing
them both.
You can get them from your local Jeep dealer or order them online here:
http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk
The factory list price is $47.25 and the online price is $34.49. If you
print out that page and take it to your dealer, they will probably match the
price. The dealer will most likely have the links in stock, since they wear
out at the top and are a common replacement part.
To remove the old link, you just un-bolt it at the bottom and the top. The
bottom comes right off, but the top of the link is tapered and fits into a
tapered hole in the stabilizer bar. It is really jammed in there and you
will need a tie rod separator tool to remove it. You jam the forked end of
the tool between the top of the link and the stabilizer bar and lever it up
and down until the link breaks free. The tool is inexpensive and available
at your local auto parts store.
See the tool here:
http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx
Tom
"redjeep0" <richlassiter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107582197.420654.250560@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
>
> I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
> buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
> do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
> visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
> get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
> included....
>
> thanks again, fellahs,
>
> rich
>
factory link. They are interchangeable. One link fits either the right or
left side. The part number is: #52087771AB. I would suggest just replacing
them both.
You can get them from your local Jeep dealer or order them online here:
http://tinyurl.com/5j6nk
The factory list price is $47.25 and the online price is $34.49. If you
print out that page and take it to your dealer, they will probably match the
price. The dealer will most likely have the links in stock, since they wear
out at the top and are a common replacement part.
To remove the old link, you just un-bolt it at the bottom and the top. The
bottom comes right off, but the top of the link is tapered and fits into a
tapered hole in the stabilizer bar. It is really jammed in there and you
will need a tie rod separator tool to remove it. You jam the forked end of
the tool between the top of the link and the stabilizer bar and lever it up
and down until the link breaks free. The tool is inexpensive and available
at your local auto parts store.
See the tool here:
http://tinyurl.com/5kwgx
Tom
"redjeep0" <richlassiter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107582197.420654.250560@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
>
> I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
> buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
> do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
> visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
> get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
> included....
>
> thanks again, fellahs,
>
> rich
>