TJ sway bar question
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
richlassiter@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
richlassiter@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
richlassiter@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
> Hey guys, I have a '97 TJ, stock, 88K mi, that has recently developed a
> clunk/thunk when you turn, that is steadily worsening, and after doing
> some research on here, and on my jeep, it seems that the sway bar link
> arm and bushings are the problem. I plan on replacing them, but I
> would like some expert advice for a few questions:
>
> #1 - When people refer to the front stabilizer arm, control arm, and
> anti-sway-bar links, are they all talking about the same piece of
> equipment?
Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to
the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line
with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with
the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one
end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is
the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to
your TJ:
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/front_suspension.jpg
> #2 - My understanding is that the bushing and the stabilizer arm are
> apt to go bad, but that the actual long 'sway bar' itself, that runs
> parallel to the axel, is unlikely to become damaged. (I am rarely
> off-road, so I expect this to be the case). Since this problem has
> been worsening for a few weeks, I think there is a low likelihood that
> I damaged the sway bar with regular on-pavement driving. Can someone
> second this?
That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the
links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that
can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame
can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.
> #3 - I need to actually purchase the equipment, and was planning to
> install it myself, even though I haven't done much sort of mechanic
> work on the jeep myself (I want to start! ;). I read about making a
> 'DIY' quick disconnect by using the stock link, and changing the bottom
> bolt with cotter pin. That sounds like a great idea for a $5
> conversion. I saw where an earlier post mentioned buying the links at
> quadratec for $20, but there is no picture.
> (LINK-FRONT STABILIZER 97-04 TJ 52087771) Would $20 be for a pair of
> OEM style links? would this include the bushings? (the guy on the
> phone from quadratec didn't know).
> I found some polyurethane sway bar bushings for $21 at 4WDHardware.com.
> I'm sure they're available elsewhere, that just happened to be the
> catalog I had at my house.
> So, since I don't expect to really need to be disconnecting often in
> the future, would you folks recommend me, mechanical novice, to proceed
> with the stock-style parts, or buy something like the JKS connects for
> $130 or so.
> I like saving money as much as the next guy, but I'm more concerned
> with value and time at this point (ie, I don't have a lot of free time
> to spend more than a few hours replacing these parts).
Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels
on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain
by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and
you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for
OEM-style.
> #4- since I can't do the replacement today, but I do want to order the
> parts in the next day or two, should I disconnect the links to prevent
> wear-and-tear on my sway bar until I can get the parts replaced? I
> understand that it violates some street-legal aspects of the car, but I
> only have to drive a few miles every day to work and back, and I'm
> capable of driving that with extreme caution.
You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react
unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to
roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held
liable for illegally modifying your suspension.
That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull
the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed
the problem.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Mike,
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Mike,
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Mike,
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should
have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per
turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In
fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat
pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep
stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender
flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the
anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I
identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had
the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of
town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the
same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the
driving when I feel the clunk.
SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is
that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing
the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?
Thanks again,
rich
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ sway bar question
Thanks for the labeled photo! yes, definitely the offending junction
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar
links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called
a control arm.
and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to
see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start
looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really
doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different
vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more
of a noise than something you felt.
I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in
having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all
the more reason to use the $5 ones :)
I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in
buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or
do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because,
visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to
get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are
included....
thanks again, fellahs,
rich
