TJ Cooling Question-Repost
04-24-2004, 06:30 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
04-24-2004, 06:30 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
04-24-2004, 06:30 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:408AA4B3.B369BBB6@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> With any luck there won't be any crud, if you changed it within the
> last couple of years. Make a full drain by removing the block plug, and
> you'll be able see any sediment, indicating a need to flush.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Trying to get Outlook to do what I want. Sorry for the repost if this
shows
> > up in another thread.
> >
> > I am replacing the thermostat/radiator in my 2000 TJ. I would like to
flush
> > the block to avoid getting any crud in the new rad. Any reason why I
should
> > not backflush from the thermostat housing (minus thermostat), draining
from
> > the lower rad hose, wtih the engine off? Would a strail flush, engine
> > running, from the lower rad be better? I have well water, and I would
rather
> > not use that to flush...that's why I want to backflush using distilled.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --
> > Matt Macchiarolo
> > mlmacchiarolo at comcast dot net
04-24-2004, 07:07 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Matt Macchiarolo did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
04-24-2004, 07:07 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Matt Macchiarolo did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
04-24-2004, 07:07 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Matt Macchiarolo did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
04-24-2004, 07:07 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
Matt Macchiarolo did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
From what I remember it just goes in snug with some loctite PST or similar
thread sealant.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/sear...te&select1=mfg
On a honda engine it's 44 ft.lbs but even that sounds way too much to me.
I'd probably put it in hand-tight with a short ratchet then watch for any
leaks after the engine has gone up to temp and cooled back down.
--
DougW
04-24-2004, 07:17 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
If it's not brass like a Ford would use, then just snug it with
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
04-24-2004, 07:17 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
If it's not brass like a Ford would use, then just snug it with
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
04-24-2004, 07:17 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ Cooling Question-Repost
If it's not brass like a Ford would use, then just snug it with
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.
with a little Permatex silicone on the pipe threads. Use the correct
size socket on it because you only have one chance to get it out of
there.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike and Bill, maybe I should pick up my FSM more often. :-)
>
> There's no torque rating for the block drain, any idea what this should be?
> Any kind of sealant needed on the block drain?
>
> I've been bad, this is the first change but there's only 32,000 miles on it.
> The block passage behind the thermostat housing looks OK.