The time has come (lift questions)
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
Thanks. My comments are inline as well.
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
Thanks. My comments are inline as well.
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
Thanks. My comments are inline as well.
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
> >1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?
> I've heard nothing but good things about OME.
Great.
> >2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
> Not personally, but again, I've never heard anyone say anything bad
> about OME.
Good to know.
> >
> >3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> >necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
> Does the OME kit include one (I think it does)? I'd be willing to bet
> yes, it is necessary. I ended up having to drop my transfer case about
> 1/4" when I added Tera's 2" coil spacers anyway. But it really seems
> to come down to hit or miss, and also what tranny and rear axle combo
> you have. Dana 44 with 5sp manual seems to be more prone to driveline
> vibes from what I've been able to determine. Worst case, install the
> lift and drive it. Determine for yourself if you need to drop the
> transfer case.
I can chose not to get the kit. But if I do need it, its relatively
inexpensive and easy to install. I have a Dana 44 rear with 3-spd
automatic tranny.
> >4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
> >have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> >within the next 12/18 months.
> Hmmmm again, no personal experience here, but with the hardtop plus
> the accessories you plan on adding, my inclination would be to lean
> toward the heavy.
It would have been great to hear from somebody who is running heavy setup.
> >5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> >to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> >to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
> Need? No, I don't think so. Although I do think you would possibly
> benefit if you did. That said, if it was my rig, I'd leave the
> stockers on, and if they *did* twist out of shape, *then* I'd consider
> replacements.
Whats the worst that can happen if I do twist one of the LCA out of shape
on a trail? Would I be able to drive back? I do like your logic.
> >6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
> Dunno.... the bumpstops are to keep the shocks from over compressing,
> and considering OME includes the shocks, in theory they probably
> wouldn't over compress since they don't find a need to include the
> front stops in their kit. However, they may not take into account that
> you may have your front swaybar disconnected, so front bump stops may
> be a good idea. I know I like the fact that I have fronts anyway.
Okay.
> >7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> >bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> >lift?
> Under optimum conditions, yes. But probably not really necessary with
> a lift of this size. Kinda like the LCA's in my opinion... would be
> nice, but not a 'must have' with a lift of 2" or so.
I am thinking about putting front disconnects for trail use. But what
about on-road driving? I personally think the lift would put some strain
on the sway bar links.
> >8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> >time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> >months).
> Not that I can think of.
I am relieved.
> >9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
> >more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> >warrantee.
> I'd stick with the OME, especially if your location in NZ affords you
> a better price on it than other brands. Like I mentioned before, I've
> never heard anything but raves regarding them.
Its more a case of local support in case things don't go as planned and I
need to use my rights under the warrantee.
> >I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
> >with a 2-2.5 inch lift.
> Every advertisement I've seen here in the US says that OME lifts
> accommodate a maximum of 31x10.5 tire. Never understood that... I
> think you'd be fine with 32x10.5's as you mention.
Its all so confusing.
Thanks for all your input.
TW
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
I am replying inline.
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
I am replying inline.
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
I am replying inline.
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
I am replying inline.
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
> > 2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?
>
> I have the shocks. Nice. Bar pins retainers can be problematic though.
>
Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
> > 3) Given that it would give me 2-2.5 inch lift, is transfer case drop
kit
> > necessary? I don't want to do it, unless absolutely necessary.
>
> Yes. Try it without first to experience drive line vibration.
I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
somewhere else.
> > 4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I
do
> > have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the
plan
> > within the next 12/18 months.
>
> Not sure. Heavy will be very harsh if you don't need it.
I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
> > 5) Do I need to replace the lower control arms with something after
market
> > to gain maximum benefit? Somebody in our club was commenting that TJs
tend
> > to twist their stock LCA out of shape once lifted.
>
> Longer LCAs will restore a good caster angle and most aftermarkets are
> much stronger than the OEMs. Aftermarkets will usually have better
> joints for more flex.
One of the guys in our club is somehow associated with Chrysler suggested
that I can probably use the LCAs from a Grand Cherokee. Would they fit and
be helpful?
> > 6) Do I need front bumpstops extensions as well?
>
> Yes. 2" in front, 1.5" in rear.
Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
rear? Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
and 1.5" rear.
> > 7) What happens to the sway bar links (front and rear) and the front
track
> > bar, shouldn't they be extended or adjusted somehow to compensate for
the
> > lift?
>
> Probably not enough lift to worry about extending the links, but
> adjustable JKS Quickers or similar would be nice for the front.
>
> I would think you would want to drop or re-drill the track bar bracket
> on the front too, but you may only be out by an eighth without it.
>
I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front. Is there a front
track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere? I'll try on the
internet and see what turns up.
> > 8) Is there anything else I should be thinking about changing at the
same
> > time? SYE and diff & t/c regearing are my next priority (another 6/12
> > months).
>
> Extensions for brake lines & axle breather tubes. Make sure your slip
> yoke arms don't bind the shaft at full rear drop. Don't forget to do a
> front end alignment after the install.
>
> Heavy-duty adjustable track bars and control arms would be a nice
> add-on. Better joints for more flex and adjustability for fine tuning,
> especially if coil spacers are in your future.
I didn't think of the tube extensions. Good one.
>
> > 9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with
a
> > more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
> > warrantee.
>
> Go OME and supplement as required/desired.
>
Thanks Steve for all your input.
TW
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
TW wrote:
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
TW wrote:
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The time has come (lift questions)
TW wrote:
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve
>
> Do you recommend using one of those bar pin eliminator kits? I think I
> have read a writeup where the guy did use it on OME shocks.
Yes, but you can probably live without it. The purpose of the BPE is to
prevent lateral shock motion on the bar pin. The circlips that hold the
OME shock on its bar pin are prone to pop out. Install them carefully
with a few drops of Loctite or tack weld the washer to the bar pin for a
cheaper alternative to the BPE.
> I'll take my chances and see what happens. I can use the money, if saved,
> somewhere else.
With your relatively longer D44 pinion, your angle will be quite steep
and it's almost a sure bet you'll get at least some vibration. Even if
vibration is not an issue, dropping the rear of the tcase will keep your
u-joints from failing as soon as they would otherwise. If you want to
save money, go to the hardware store and get 4 longer bolts and a stack
of washers for each.
> I don't want extremely harsh ride. But I want it to be firm. What I
> really don't want to end up with is a feeling that you get on boats.
Get the heavy springs front and rear. Until you get your winch in front
and all your jacks, tools, spares, supplies, etc. in the rear, your ride
will be very firm but not harsh. Articulation may suffer somewhat when
you're unloaded, but overall, firm is good.
> Am I correct to assume that the total bumstop should be 2" front and 1.5"
> rear?
No.
> Or is it that the extension to existing bumstops should be 2" front
> and 1.5" rear.
Yes, you want a net increase of 1.5" and 2". There are several designs.
Some insert a spacer between the frame and existing bump stop. Some
insert in the middle of the stop. You can also buy longer bump stops to
completely replace the stock ones. On my XJ front I have a 2" high
'puck' that bolts on the bottom perch inside the coil.
> I have been thinking about the disconnects in the front.
Definitely get disconnects. I love my JKS Quickers.
> Is there a front track bar relactor bracket in the market somewhere?
> I'll try on the internet and see what turns up.
Front track bar relocation not strictly required at 2.5" lift - your
axle will be off center by only a fraction of an inch. If you do decide
your stock track bar is too short, consider investing in an adjustable
one instead of wasting money on a fixed bracket. Dropping the bracket
keeps your axle centred, but it limits articulation. A heavy-duty
adjustable with better joints is the ideal solution (front and rear) and
lets you increase lift height in future with no loss of performance.
Same goes for control arms - let you fine tune caster and pinion angles
for any lift height
Steve