TF727 Part identification
10-11-2003, 06:36 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
I haven't ridden in it, the thought scares me. I'm assuming the
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
10-11-2003, 06:36 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
I haven't ridden in it, the thought scares me. I'm assuming the
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
10-11-2003, 06:36 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
I haven't ridden in it, the thought scares me. I'm assuming the
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
shifts are soft and the slippage is just there, on each shift, like your
higher volume pump may take care of it. Transmission was GM's heavy duty
coming from a taxicab. And I'll tell him about Painless, it's a product
he's already using in this '55 Chevy pickup, and his '32 Ford, and '59
Vette. I'll forward your post to him.
http://members.aol.com/franangrenteria/frank_32.jpg
Thanks, Bill
c wrote:
>
> How did you adjust the TV cable? It is a quite sensitive adjustment, and as
> little as 1/8" makes quite a difference. Mine took quite a while to get
> right. A good starting point is to open the throttle all the way and then
> adjust all the slack out of the cable. This is usually too much tension on
> the cable, but it is a safe starting point.
>
> Also, don't get me wrong. The 700R can take a lot of punishment, but it was
> never designed in stock form for something with the power of a 426 Hemi. The
> most powerful engine put in front of a stock 700R was the 454 found in the
> 84 and newer trucks. I believe the SS454 would have been the most powerful
> one, but I have no idea of the HP or torque that engine puts out. It's not
> even in the same class as a stock street Hemi, let alone a Hemi that has
> been modified.
>
> If the trans is slipping in all gears, then the pump is probably not doing
> it's job, or the TV cable still isn't right. The older 700R pumps were prone
> to cracking the ring that retains the pump vanes. If this happens, then your
> pump will lose most of its pressure, which in turn will cause less apply
> pressure to the clutches and band.
>
> If it is slipping in 2nd and 4th, then the band is gone or the apply servo
> isn't applying enough pressure to hold it. This could be because of a bad
> servo seal, or just the fact that you are overpowering it. There are
> aftermarket servos available, in addition to the Vette one. The nice thing
> here is that they can be changed from the outside of the case, as long as
> you can access the servo cover. But like I said, the bigger the piston here,
> the slower it will shift into both 2nd and 4th gears.
>
> If it is slipping in 3rd and 4th only, then it is more than likely the 3-4
> clutch pack, or the apply piston seal. The 3-4 clutch failure is quite
> common due to the lack of cooling of these clutches. This is because of the
> transmission design. The clutches are buried inside everything else and are
> the last thing to get lube, even though they are the ones doing the high
> load work. The mods for the 3-4 clutch involve drilling extra oiling holes
> in the clutch drum, as well as upgrading to 2 extra clutch plates and steels
> in the clutch pack.
>
> BTW, whatever that Hemi is in with 4.56 gears and a 3.06 first gear has got
> to have one hell of a holeshot. I hope your friend gets this sorted out.
>
> Also one other note. Painless makes a wiring kit for the converter lockup on
> non computer vehicles with this transmission. It is basically a new solenoid
> that goes in the valve body, along with a brake switch and a vacuum switch.
> The kit allows the converter to lockup in 4th gear only, and it
> automatically unlocks when the vacuum drops below 12" (I believe) and the
> brake pedal is not depressed. This is the kit I used in my S10 and it works
> great.
>
> Chris
10-13-2003, 04:20 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F885E0E.8535193F@***.net...
> Hi Bob,
> You don't have any Hot Rodder type information on the TH700R4 do
> you? We're having trouble with it slipping, and figure it has something
> to with electrical wiring to the lockup. It's out of a Chevy Taxi,
> adapted to a 426" hemi.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
volkswagen. what a combo!
8~)>
--
bob z.
"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
everyday"©
10-13-2003, 04:20 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F885E0E.8535193F@***.net...
> Hi Bob,
> You don't have any Hot Rodder type information on the TH700R4 do
> you? We're having trouble with it slipping, and figure it has something
> to with electrical wiring to the lockup. It's out of a Chevy Taxi,
> adapted to a 426" hemi.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
volkswagen. what a combo!
8~)>
--
bob z.
"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
everyday"©
10-13-2003, 04:20 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3F885E0E.8535193F@***.net...
> Hi Bob,
> You don't have any Hot Rodder type information on the TH700R4 do
> you? We're having trouble with it slipping, and figure it has something
> to with electrical wiring to the lockup. It's out of a Chevy Taxi,
> adapted to a 426" hemi.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
volkswagen. what a combo!
8~)>
--
bob z.
"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
everyday"©
10-13-2003, 04:34 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
Thanks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
10-13-2003, 04:34 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
Thanks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
10-13-2003, 04:34 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
Thanks.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bob zee wrote:
>
> i am obviously too late with a reply, but it looks like Chris gave you a lot
> more information than i ever could have. i don't have much experience with
> chevrolet trasmissions. all of my experience is with chrysler and
> volkswagen. what a combo!
> 8~)>
>
> --
> bob z.
>
> "people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things
> everyday"©
10-20-2003, 07:03 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TF727 Part identification
Got it! Ordered it at the Jeep dealership. Cost me $4.68 and works
perfect.
So after I scoured a friends garage for it (that's where we stripped out the
engine and tranny.... he sees what I ordered and says "oh, that part? It's
sitting on the 'other' workbench in my garage". It was at his house the
whole time. Oh well, for 4 bucks I think I'll just use the new one (plus
the old one is missing the bolt and square nut to hold it to the post). IT
NEVER FAILS!
"Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ZcDhb.51$g64.24177@news.uswest.net...
> Yeah, I definately am going to hookup the kickdown. I went to the
> dealership at lunch and paged through their catalog. I think we found the
> right one. For $4 I'll know in a few days if it's the one! Otherwise
I'll
> hit up the tranny shops.
>
> "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:XHzhb.400$9P5.18083@news.uswest.net...
> > I am missing the "little lever" on my 727 that the kickdown connects to.
> > Does anyone know what its real name is? I ordered a 727 book but it
isn't
> > here yet and I struck out trying to find a diagram of the 727 online
> > (tellico, 4wd hardware, JC Whitney, Summit Racing, yahoo, google... etc)
> >
> > Picture: http://www.geocities.com/co_big_cheese/kickdown.JPG
> > I am using a Lokar shifter and kickdown it if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Closest I found to a decent diagram was
> > http://riversiderebels.com/amccf/tec...ainer_serv.jpg
> but
> > I don't see the part on there, and even if it was, there's no names!
> >
> >
>
>
perfect.
So after I scoured a friends garage for it (that's where we stripped out the
engine and tranny.... he sees what I ordered and says "oh, that part? It's
sitting on the 'other' workbench in my garage". It was at his house the
whole time. Oh well, for 4 bucks I think I'll just use the new one (plus
the old one is missing the bolt and square nut to hold it to the post). IT
NEVER FAILS!
"Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ZcDhb.51$g64.24177@news.uswest.net...
> Yeah, I definately am going to hookup the kickdown. I went to the
> dealership at lunch and paged through their catalog. I think we found the
> right one. For $4 I'll know in a few days if it's the one! Otherwise
I'll
> hit up the tranny shops.
>
> "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:XHzhb.400$9P5.18083@news.uswest.net...
> > I am missing the "little lever" on my 727 that the kickdown connects to.
> > Does anyone know what its real name is? I ordered a 727 book but it
isn't
> > here yet and I struck out trying to find a diagram of the 727 online
> > (tellico, 4wd hardware, JC Whitney, Summit Racing, yahoo, google... etc)
> >
> > Picture: http://www.geocities.com/co_big_cheese/kickdown.JPG
> > I am using a Lokar shifter and kickdown it if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Closest I found to a decent diagram was
> > http://riversiderebels.com/amccf/tec...ainer_serv.jpg
> but
> > I don't see the part on there, and even if it was, there's no names!
> >
> >
>
>