Floorboards look decent..as i said drivers side had 4-5 pinholes in a bend
in them, but didnt look corroded from the under side either. I will look at
lower side of fenders then.

Forgot to mention.. has heavy duty bumpers welded on at both front and rear,
with a rugged looking spare tire carrier at the rear.



Thanks

"Andy" <trailrider2008@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fwJTe.332698$xm3.205602@attbi_s21...
> Steve,
>
> Be sure to check body mounts and the rear frame for rot. Also, the seat
> brackets, grip the seat frames and shake. Rust/rot is the enemy. Look
> close. How are the front lower fenders - near the floor. Good luck and I
> hope you found a decent cj5.
>
> Andy
>
> "Steve" <stevncin@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:h9JTe.81$O52.31@fe06.lga...
>> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
>> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>>
>> Vin#... J6F83AA007###
>>
>> 3spd
>>
>> straight 6
>>
>> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
>> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
>> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
>> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look
>> new, windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust
>> manifold has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way
>> around. Hubs turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it,
>> soft doors as well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if
>> it had a spare mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern
>> behind wheel well).
>>
>> I may have left somthing out but thats basically it, what should i really
>> look for other than these things..probably gonna go back there tommorow.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
>

 

Floorboards look decent..as i said drivers side had 4-5 pinholes in a bend
in them, but didnt look corroded from the under side either. I will look at
lower side of fenders then.

Forgot to mention.. has heavy duty bumpers welded on at both front and rear,
with a rugged looking spare tire carrier at the rear.



Thanks

"Andy" <trailrider2008@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fwJTe.332698$xm3.205602@attbi_s21...
> Steve,
>
> Be sure to check body mounts and the rear frame for rot. Also, the seat
> brackets, grip the seat frames and shake. Rust/rot is the enemy. Look
> close. How are the front lower fenders - near the floor. Good luck and I
> hope you found a decent cj5.
>
> Andy
>
> "Steve" <stevncin@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:h9JTe.81$O52.31@fe06.lga...
>> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
>> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>>
>> Vin#... J6F83AA007###
>>
>> 3spd
>>
>> straight 6
>>
>> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
>> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
>> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
>> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look
>> new, windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust
>> manifold has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way
>> around. Hubs turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it,
>> soft doors as well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if
>> it had a spare mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern
>> behind wheel well).
>>
>> I may have left somthing out but thats basically it, what should i really
>> look for other than these things..probably gonna go back there tommorow.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
>

 

Floorboards look decent..as i said drivers side had 4-5 pinholes in a bend
in them, but didnt look corroded from the under side either. I will look at
lower side of fenders then.

Forgot to mention.. has heavy duty bumpers welded on at both front and rear,
with a rugged looking spare tire carrier at the rear.



Thanks

"Andy" <trailrider2008@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fwJTe.332698$xm3.205602@attbi_s21...
> Steve,
>
> Be sure to check body mounts and the rear frame for rot. Also, the seat
> brackets, grip the seat frames and shake. Rust/rot is the enemy. Look
> close. How are the front lower fenders - near the floor. Good luck and I
> hope you found a decent cj5.
>
> Andy
>
> "Steve" <stevncin@charter.net> wrote in message
> news:h9JTe.81$O52.31@fe06.lga...
>> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
>> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>>
>> Vin#... J6F83AA007###
>>
>> 3spd
>>
>> straight 6
>>
>> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
>> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
>> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
>> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look
>> new, windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust
>> manifold has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way
>> around. Hubs turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it,
>> soft doors as well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if
>> it had a spare mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern
>> behind wheel well).
>>
>> I may have left somthing out but thats basically it, what should i really
>> look for other than these things..probably gonna go back there tommorow.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
>

 

This stuff is cosmetic. Run a compression test, leakdown if you can. Drive
it a while with hubs locked in 2w hi, then check the fluid in t-case, trans,
and diffs for metal flakes. let it idle for an hour and see if it heats up.
see if it stops well.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

 

This stuff is cosmetic. Run a compression test, leakdown if you can. Drive
it a while with hubs locked in 2w hi, then check the fluid in t-case, trans,
and diffs for metal flakes. let it idle for an hour and see if it heats up.
see if it stops well.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

 

This stuff is cosmetic. Run a compression test, leakdown if you can. Drive
it a while with hubs locked in 2w hi, then check the fluid in t-case, trans,
and diffs for metal flakes. let it idle for an hour and see if it heats up.
see if it stops well.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

 

This stuff is cosmetic. Run a compression test, leakdown if you can. Drive
it a while with hubs locked in 2w hi, then check the fluid in t-case, trans,
and diffs for metal flakes. let it idle for an hour and see if it heats up.
see if it stops well.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

 

Steve wrote:
> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>
> Vin#... J6F83AA007###

Go here:
<http://members.aol.com/brimiljeep/WebPages/ArchiveJeepSerialNumberPage.html#AMCJeepSerialNumb erProduction>

Your VIN decodes as
[J] == Made by Jeep Corporation
[6] == Model year 1976
[F] == 3 speed manual tranny
[83] == CJ-5
[A] == 3750 lbs GVW (4150 for heavy duty)
[A] == 258ci 6 cyl engine with 1bbl carb
[007###] == sequential serial number

> 3spd
>
> straight 6

Don't worry about your engine number and VIN matching: They won't. The
engine plant and vehicle plant ran on different systems.


> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look new,
> windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust manifold
> has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way around. Hubs
> turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it, soft doors as
> well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if it had a spare
> mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern behind wheel
> well).

You've got drum brakes in the front, you should consider putting 1978 or
later front disks on. It's a bolt-up job.

As others have noted, rot in the last foot of the frame is a problem.
Wack the frame with a hammer to test. The brake lines are all steel and
will eventually rot, but reproductions are available. Pick up under the
body near the door and try to rock the body to test the body mounts,
likewise the seats. The front fenders tend to rot in the double-walled
area near the cowl. Check underneath for sagging or bent springs --
again, repros are available. Check the windshield frame for rot along
the bottom, front and rear. Eyeball the body for asymetry that might
indicate that the CJ was tossed once and the frame is bent.

Check your local laws concerning emissions equipment. Some states don't
bother checking antiques, some do. Restoring emissions euqipment can be
expensive.

 

Steve wrote:
> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>
> Vin#... J6F83AA007###

Go here:
<http://members.aol.com/brimiljeep/WebPages/ArchiveJeepSerialNumberPage.html#AMCJeepSerialNumb erProduction>

Your VIN decodes as
[J] == Made by Jeep Corporation
[6] == Model year 1976
[F] == 3 speed manual tranny
[83] == CJ-5
[A] == 3750 lbs GVW (4150 for heavy duty)
[A] == 258ci 6 cyl engine with 1bbl carb
[007###] == sequential serial number

> 3spd
>
> straight 6

Don't worry about your engine number and VIN matching: They won't. The
engine plant and vehicle plant ran on different systems.


> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look new,
> windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust manifold
> has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way around. Hubs
> turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it, soft doors as
> well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if it had a spare
> mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern behind wheel
> well).

You've got drum brakes in the front, you should consider putting 1978 or
later front disks on. It's a bolt-up job.

As others have noted, rot in the last foot of the frame is a problem.
Wack the frame with a hammer to test. The brake lines are all steel and
will eventually rot, but reproductions are available. Pick up under the
body near the door and try to rock the body to test the body mounts,
likewise the seats. The front fenders tend to rot in the double-walled
area near the cowl. Check underneath for sagging or bent springs --
again, repros are available. Check the windshield frame for rot along
the bottom, front and rear. Eyeball the body for asymetry that might
indicate that the CJ was tossed once and the frame is bent.

Check your local laws concerning emissions equipment. Some states don't
bother checking antiques, some do. Restoring emissions euqipment can be
expensive.

 

Steve wrote:
> Found a 1976 cj5 for sale that seems to be ok to me. What are some
> basic/usual problems to look for in this model?
>
> Vin#... J6F83AA007###

Go here:
<http://members.aol.com/brimiljeep/WebPages/ArchiveJeepSerialNumberPage.html#AMCJeepSerialNumb erProduction>

Your VIN decodes as
[J] == Made by Jeep Corporation
[6] == Model year 1976
[F] == 3 speed manual tranny
[83] == CJ-5
[A] == 3750 lbs GVW (4150 for heavy duty)
[A] == 258ci 6 cyl engine with 1bbl carb
[007###] == sequential serial number

> 3spd
>
> straight 6

Don't worry about your engine number and VIN matching: They won't. The
engine plant and vehicle plant ran on different systems.


> Has power steering, manual brakes, floors look pretty solid, only 4-5
> pinholes in drivers side. Most of the body looks like it has some kind of
> thicker than paint covering sprayed on it. But it looks pretty solid, no
> major rust through spots felt from reaching under it. Gauges all look new,
> windsheild wipers work. New carburator, new distributor, exhaust manifold
> has leaks (header actually). manual brakes..drums all the way around. Hubs
> turn.. lock/unlock smoothly. Decent looking Bestop on it, soft doors as
> well. Some holes on the passenger side have me wondering if it had a spare
> mounted there at one time (3 holes in a triangular pattern behind wheel
> well).

You've got drum brakes in the front, you should consider putting 1978 or
later front disks on. It's a bolt-up job.

As others have noted, rot in the last foot of the frame is a problem.
Wack the frame with a hammer to test. The brake lines are all steel and
will eventually rot, but reproductions are available. Pick up under the
body near the door and try to rock the body to test the body mounts,
likewise the seats. The front fenders tend to rot in the double-walled
area near the cowl. Check underneath for sagging or bent springs --
again, repros are available. Check the windshield frame for rot along
the bottom, front and rear. Eyeball the body for asymetry that might
indicate that the CJ was tossed once and the frame is bent.

Check your local laws concerning emissions equipment. Some states don't
bother checking antiques, some do. Restoring emissions euqipment can be
expensive.