Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
position when turning the key.
Any comments on this?
Thanks,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> I missed that part.
>
> He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> according to his description below.
>
> This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
>
> Mike
>
> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > white porcelain and looks like:
> > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > another relay.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
gotten to
> > > the following part:
> > >
> > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
color).
> > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
the
> > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
under
> > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
fuse.NOTE:
> > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
ballast
> > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
on
> > > this wire during cranking!"
> > >
> > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
(+)
> > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > >
> > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
get
> > > the source for this part?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Bill
source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
position when turning the key.
Any comments on this?
Thanks,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> I missed that part.
>
> He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> according to his description below.
>
> This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
>
> Mike
>
> "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > white porcelain and looks like:
> > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > another relay.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
gotten to
> > > the following part:
> > >
> > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
color).
> > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
the
> > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
under
> > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
fuse.NOTE:
> > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
ballast
> > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
on
> > > this wire during cranking!"
> > >
> > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
(+)
> > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > >
> > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
get
> > > the source for this part?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Bill
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Hmmm.....
Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
need the ballast wire power to the coil.
Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
coil positive.
With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> position when turning the key.
>
> Any comments on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > I missed that part.
> >
> > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > according to his description below.
> >
> > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > another relay.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> gotten to
> > > > the following part:
> > > >
> > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
> color).
> > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
> the
> > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
> under
> > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> fuse.NOTE:
> > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> ballast
> > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
> on
> > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > >
> > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
> (+)
> > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > >
> > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
> get
> > > > the source for this part?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
need the ballast wire power to the coil.
Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
coil positive.
With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> position when turning the key.
>
> Any comments on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > I missed that part.
> >
> > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > according to his description below.
> >
> > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > another relay.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> gotten to
> > > > the following part:
> > > >
> > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
> color).
> > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
> the
> > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
> under
> > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> fuse.NOTE:
> > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> ballast
> > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
> on
> > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > >
> > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
> (+)
> > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > >
> > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
> get
> > > > the source for this part?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Hmmm.....
Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
need the ballast wire power to the coil.
Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
coil positive.
With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> position when turning the key.
>
> Any comments on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > I missed that part.
> >
> > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > according to his description below.
> >
> > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > another relay.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> gotten to
> > > > the following part:
> > > >
> > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
> color).
> > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
> the
> > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
> under
> > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> fuse.NOTE:
> > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> ballast
> > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
> on
> > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > >
> > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
> (+)
> > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > >
> > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
> get
> > > > the source for this part?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
need the ballast wire power to the coil.
Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
coil positive.
With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> position when turning the key.
>
> Any comments on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > I missed that part.
> >
> > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > according to his description below.
> >
> > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil power
> > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this. It
> > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before the
> > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made of
> > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless yours
> > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More than
> > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > another relay.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> gotten to
> > > > the following part:
> > > >
> > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
> > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow
> color).
> > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to
> the
> > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located
> under
> > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> fuse.NOTE:
> > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> ballast
> > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present
> on
> > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > >
> > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery plus
> (+)
> > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the old
> > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > >
> > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where do I
> get
> > > > the source for this part?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Oil pressure switch for the power maybe...
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
> I don't know how you're going to do that, your GM ignition switch
> turns the coil off in the start position, and the solenoid bypass goes
> directly to the coil, to jump it to the switch side of the resistor
> would leave it connect on run. It's going to take another relay. Call
> Hesco for advise.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
> I don't know how you're going to do that, your GM ignition switch
> turns the coil off in the start position, and the solenoid bypass goes
> directly to the coil, to jump it to the switch side of the resistor
> would leave it connect on run. It's going to take another relay. Call
> Hesco for advise.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Oil pressure switch for the power maybe...
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
> I don't know how you're going to do that, your GM ignition switch
> turns the coil off in the start position, and the solenoid bypass goes
> directly to the coil, to jump it to the switch side of the resistor
> would leave it connect on run. It's going to take another relay. Call
> Hesco for advise.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
> I don't know how you're going to do that, your GM ignition switch
> turns the coil off in the start position, and the solenoid bypass goes
> directly to the coil, to jump it to the switch side of the resistor
> would leave it connect on run. It's going to take another relay. Call
> Hesco for advise.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a 12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Crap I think my brain's going to blow up!!!
ha ha.....
Ok, I'm going to have to go home and compile all these points and see if I
can figure something out.
Thanks a lot all,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F68A273.47199726@sympatico.ca...
> Hmmm.....
>
> Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
>
> I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
>
> The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
> of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
> Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
> need the ballast wire power to the coil.
>
> Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
> power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
> resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
> there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
> coil positive.
>
> With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
> pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
> choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
> solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
>
> That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
> engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a
12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and
Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > > I missed that part.
> > >
> > > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > > according to his description below.
> > >
> > > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil
power
> > > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this.
It
> > > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before
the
> > > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made
of
> > > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless
yours
> > > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More
than
> > > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > > another relay.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> > gotten to
> > > > > the following part:
> > > > >
> > > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead
mounted
> > > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a
yellow
> > color).
> > > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay
wire to
> > the
> > > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually
located
> > under
> > > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> > fuse.NOTE:
> > > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> > ballast
> > > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are
present
> > on
> > > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > > >
> > > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery
plus
> > (+)
> > > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the
old
> > > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where
do I
> > get
> > > > > the source for this part?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
ha ha.....
Ok, I'm going to have to go home and compile all these points and see if I
can figure something out.
Thanks a lot all,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F68A273.47199726@sympatico.ca...
> Hmmm.....
>
> Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
>
> I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
>
> The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
> of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
> Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
> need the ballast wire power to the coil.
>
> Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
> power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
> resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
> there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
> coil positive.
>
> With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
> pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
> choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
> solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
>
> That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
> engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a
12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and
Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > > I missed that part.
> > >
> > > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > > according to his description below.
> > >
> > > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil
power
> > > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this.
It
> > > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before
the
> > > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made
of
> > > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless
yours
> > > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More
than
> > > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > > another relay.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> > gotten to
> > > > > the following part:
> > > > >
> > > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead
mounted
> > > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a
yellow
> > color).
> > > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay
wire to
> > the
> > > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually
located
> > under
> > > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> > fuse.NOTE:
> > > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> > ballast
> > > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are
present
> > on
> > > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > > >
> > > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery
plus
> > (+)
> > > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the
old
> > > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where
do I
> > get
> > > > > the source for this part?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Supply a Switched 12 volt power supply - Mopar MPI
Crap I think my brain's going to blow up!!!
ha ha.....
Ok, I'm going to have to go home and compile all these points and see if I
can figure something out.
Thanks a lot all,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F68A273.47199726@sympatico.ca...
> Hmmm.....
>
> Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
>
> I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
>
> The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
> of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
> Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
> need the ballast wire power to the coil.
>
> Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
> power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
> resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
> there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
> coil positive.
>
> With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
> pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
> choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
> solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
>
> That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
> engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a
12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and
Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > > I missed that part.
> > >
> > > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > > according to his description below.
> > >
> > > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil
power
> > > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this.
It
> > > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before
the
> > > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made
of
> > > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless
yours
> > > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More
than
> > > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > > another relay.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> > gotten to
> > > > > the following part:
> > > > >
> > > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead
mounted
> > > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a
yellow
> > color).
> > > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay
wire to
> > the
> > > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually
located
> > under
> > > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> > fuse.NOTE:
> > > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> > ballast
> > > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are
present
> > on
> > > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > > >
> > > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery
plus
> > (+)
> > > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the
old
> > > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where
do I
> > get
> > > > > the source for this part?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
ha ha.....
Ok, I'm going to have to go home and compile all these points and see if I
can figure something out.
Thanks a lot all,
bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F68A273.47199726@sympatico.ca...
> Hmmm.....
>
> Ok, maybe need to start all over again here....
>
> I missed the part about the switched wire needing a solenoid start tag.
>
> The solenoid start tag is the same one the coil needs on the 'coil side'
> of the ballast resistor 'if' your coil needs a ballast resistor! My
> Accel coil runs on either but my ignition module and distributor pickup
> need the ballast wire power to the coil.
>
> Therefore, the red/white stripe wire wouldn't work for the switched
> power unless you coil runs on straight power, it would loop the ballast
> resistor and fry the coil. If you coil runs on straight power, then
> there is your perfect 'switched' wire with a starter tag right off the
> coil positive.
>
> With a ballast resistor, I would instead use the wire from the oil
> pressure switch on the engine sensor above the starter that is used for
> choke and manifold heater power for my 'switched' 12 volts and starter
> solenoid tag that to the key switch wire.
>
> That way if you forget and leave the key in run for any reason with the
> engine off, nothing will cook, no oil pressure, no power.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > I just talked to Hesco who told me the one wire can be a steady 12 volt
> > source which can come from the battery and the other wire needs to be a
12
> > switched source where the switched source is 12 volts in the Start and
Run
> > position when turning the key.
> >
> > Any comments on this?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > bill
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F688D58.D6A43DC7@sympatico.ca...
> > > I missed that part.
> > >
> > > He will need a starter solenoid tag on the switched 12 volts too
> > > according to his description below.
> > >
> > > This can come from the same blue wire he needs to tag (wire from key
> > > switch to fire up the starter solenoid when in start) for the coil
power
> > > when the starter is turning. Or he could just tag the white or light
> > > blue wire on the small 2 wire plug for the ignition module for this.
It
> > > already gets 12 volts when the key is in 'start', then the power
> > > switches to the red wire in this same plug when the key goes to run.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > > Following their directions, you'll need to hook it up before
the
> > > > coil resistor ballast that should be located on your firewall, made
of
> > > > white porcelain and looks like:
> > > > http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structu...7/83474F-p.jpg Unless
yours
> > > > is the resistor wire in the harness that you threw away. Which means
> > > > you'll have to purchase a new resistor to operate your coil. More
than
> > > > likely your ignition switch will not power the coil in the start
> > > > position, so you'll have to also connect that wire to the starter
> > > > solenoid bypass connection. Which I can see problems with, without
> > > > another relay.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm getting down to the wire with this MPI Installation and have
> > gotten to
> > > > > the following part:
> > > > >
> > > > > "To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead
mounted
> > > > > relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a
yellow
> > color).
> > > > > Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay
wire to
> > the
> > > > > starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually
located
> > under
> > > > > the battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system
> > fuse.NOTE:
> > > > > Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed through a
> > ballast
> > > > > resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are
present
> > on
> > > > > this wire during cranking!"
> > > > >
> > > > > Well, I can find the red relay feed to the starter relay, battery
plus
> > (+)
> > > > > but from what I can see the positive (+) side coil wire was on the
old
> > > > > Wiring Harness which has been removed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Am I right here? If not where am I wrong and if I am right where
do I
> > get
> > > > > the source for this part?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
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