Stupid radiator...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Stupid radiator...
Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
1. Any tricks to fixing it?
2. Recommendations on a new one?
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
1. Any tricks to fixing it?
2. Recommendations on a new one?
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started leaking,
> at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
> 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
>
> 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
> 2. Recommendations on a new one?
You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
in the past.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
In news:o4unc.26100$Z%5.9112@okepread01,
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
In news:o4unc.26100$Z%5.9112@okepread01,
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
In news:o4unc.26100$Z%5.9112@okepread01,
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
In news:o4unc.26100$Z%5.9112@okepread01,
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
DougW from <post.replies@invalid.address> was injured
because:
| Joseph P did pass the time by typing:
|| Ok, my half plastic half metal radiator has started
leaking,
|| at the top, all around, where the AL and plastic meet.
|| 1998 TJ with the four-oh H.O.
||
|| 1. Any tricks to fixing it?
|
| Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
| metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
| leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of
those
| to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully
removing
| the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin
skinning
| of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces
of the
| gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do
to an
| engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
|
|| 2. Recommendations on a new one?
|
| You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
| radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to
www.buymopar.com
| or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
|
| Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson
here
| in the past.
Thanks, I haven't googled this yet, but I don't remember any
recent discussion, either. I don't think OEM is an option
at this point, seems this design may be just as flawed as
the exhaust? (see my next post...)
--
--
Joe Pribe
NC
Pull my finger to reply by email.
jpribe 'at' nc.rr.com
jegp 'at' hotmail.com
I Love My O|||||||O
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stupid radiator...
All three Ford radiators that began to leak in that seam were
actually very small cracks. Just buy a Real radiator and replace them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
> metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
> leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
> to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
> the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
> of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
> gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
> engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
>
> You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
> radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
> www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
>
> Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
> in the past.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
actually very small cracks. Just buy a Real radiator and replace them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DougW wrote:
>
> Very hard to fix, it's a gasket held by crimped
> metal tabs but crimping them harder just makes more
> leaks. Never heard of anyone actually getting one of those
> to stay fixed. :/ It might be possible by carefully removing
> the side then reinstalling the old gasket with a thin skinning
> of permatex Hylomar HPF (super sticky RTV) on both faces of the
> gasket. But considering what loosing the radiator can do to an
> engine I'd suggest you go with a new one.
>
> You could go with a three core solid aluminium one from
> radiatorbarn.com or similar vendor. Or go to www.buymopar.com or
> www.chryslerpartsdirect.com for an OEM replacement.
>
> Check Google Groups, there has been a lot of discusson here
> in the past.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
