Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Dave wrote:
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Dave wrote:
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Dave wrote:
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
>> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
>> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
>> drill press and do it?
>
> On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> used the brakes.
>
The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
idle and had to learn it again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Or you could get the bolt as tight as you can on the lift, install the
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Or you could get the bolt as tight as you can on the lift, install the
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
Or you could get the bolt as tight as you can on the lift, install the
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
wheel, lower it down on the ground, and torque away...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:7wDDh.4979$_73.3491@newsread2.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> To hold the hub, I have a 4' piece of bar stock with two holes drilled in
> the end that slide over any two bolt holes in the hub. Actually, I think
> that piece of bar stock disappeared into the winch mount so I'll need a
> new one next time I do a hub. :)
>
> Dave wrote:
>> On a cold and blistery Michigan night, I spent last night putting my
>> TJ's front right steering knuckle back together, after having to drill
>> out a broken caliper bolt. . and I just had to ask, how many others
>> have forgot to install the spash-guard after bolting down the 3 hub-
>> bolts. . . .oops. . . then after using a floor-jack to wedge the
>> knuckle into the tapers on the upper & lower ball studs, and FINALLY
>> getting the upper nut to lock, and not turn the ball-joint, and
>> getting it nice and tight and getting the cotter-pin in, ... I realize
>> I forgot to put the ABS sensor wire bracket on it first.. So off comes
>> the nut again and we start again! :)
>>
>> Cold weather + no sleep = sloppy mechanic.
>>
>> Thanks to all you guys who helped me by answering all my newbie
>> questions. It's the great people on this newsgroup that I always think
>> about when I do the jeep-wave.. Jeeps just seem to attract nice
>> people. (for the most part..) I had an aircooled vw before the Jeep,
>> and their newsgroup is equally active and friendly. (and they wave
>> too!)
>>
>> One strange thing happened when I went to take it for a test-drive. It
>> was in the garage for a week, in cold weather, with me playing the
>> radio quite a bit.. so the battery was all but dead. I jumped it, let
>> it run for about 5-6 minutes, then put it into gear and crawled out of
>> the garage. I stopped after I cleared the door, and then it kept
>> acting like it was going to stall if I didn't feather the gas-pedal..
>> it would idle at around 250 rpms if I didn't hit the gas. I had never
>> seen this before. It did this for my entire test drive of about 10
>> minutes. After I parked it in the garage, I turned it off, then back
>> on, and idle was fine.
>>
>> Is there something about low voltage and idle speed? Once the
>> alternator was turning and the engine running, my voltage should have
>> been fine for running normal I would have thought..
>>
>> Also, What is the secret to tightening the 175 ft-lb axle nut? ...
>> Having someone stand on the brakes while you crank on it?
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
On Feb 23, 11:39 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
On Feb 23, 11:39 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
On Feb 23, 11:39 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
> Dave wrote:
> > On Feb 23, 10:30 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> As far as the caliper goes.... I don't remember you asking about the fix
> >> for it. Doesn't the caliper bracket just unbolt from the back of the
> >> hub so you can just lay it on the ground and drill it out or put it in a
> >> drill press and do it?
>
> > On my TJ, the caliper bolts go through the caliper, and thread into 2
> > holes on the steering knuckle. The lower bolt broke off some time ago
> > apparently, and in the process, put an interesting wear pattern on the
> > rotor and pads, in addition to wearing a nice groove in the steering
> > knuckle where the whole thing was rocking back and forth each time I
> > used the brakes.
>
> The part I am talking about has the upper and lower slide bars that the
> brake pads move along as they get used and wear. This slide bar can get
> notches worn in it from a loose caliper. These notches 'will ' hang up
> the pads and cause uneven braking/pulling and a brake pedal that
> 'jumps'. It can cause one pad to wear out and the other to be left new
> which also stresses the crap out of the wheel bearings....
>
> This part also is the part that the caliper bolts go into. It is a
> detachable piece, not a cast part of the steering knuckle so it can just
> come off to fill weld and grind flat any notches that that loose caliper
> cause you. It is worth about $125.00 for a new one which is why mine
> got 'fixed' instead of replaced.
>
> Your new TJ 'might' be different, but I can't see them being so sleazy
> as to now include a 'wear' part as part of the knuckle core.
>
> Oh, as far as the idle goes, that is normal. The computer forgot how to
> idle and had to learn it again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
I've got on my TJ..
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Steering Knuckle installed and functioning!
>
> Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
> I've got on my TJ..
>
> http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
>
> It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
>
Thanks. Yup they made it all one piece, figures.
Mike
> Mike, .. This is a 90-00 XJ knuckle, which looks similar to the one
> I've got on my TJ..
>
> http://www.jeep4x4center.com/prodinf...umber=52067576
>
> It appears this is the knuckle from 84-89, that I assume you have?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...QQcmdZViewItem
>
Thanks. Yup they made it all one piece, figures.
Mike