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Steering column locing question.
I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and
disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? Rich |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Rich,
I don't think it would be worth it to take the cog out. The dismantling of a similar Chevy: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel02.htm Remember that cog has already save your car from being towed a couple of times. Have a good trip to east coast for your new duty station. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Richard Harris wrote: > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Rich,
I don't think it would be worth it to take the cog out. The dismantling of a similar Chevy: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel02.htm Remember that cog has already save your car from being towed a couple of times. Have a good trip to east coast for your new duty station. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Richard Harris wrote: > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Rich,
I don't think it would be worth it to take the cog out. The dismantling of a similar Chevy: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel02.htm Remember that cog has already save your car from being towed a couple of times. Have a good trip to east coast for your new duty station. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Richard Harris wrote: > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Rich,
I don't think it would be worth it to take the cog out. The dismantling of a similar Chevy: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...lt_wheel02.htm Remember that cog has already save your car from being towed a couple of times. Have a good trip to east coast for your new duty station. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ Richard Harris wrote: > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich |
Re: Steering column locing question.
That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7.
Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is brand spanking new, and it comes out. I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7.
Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is brand spanking new, and it comes out. I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7.
Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is brand spanking new, and it comes out. I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7.
Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is brand spanking new, and it comes out. I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column so > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > Rich > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7.
My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to lube it, then drive on again. My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can move. No battery disconnect needed. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's CRWLR wrote: > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > so > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Rich > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7.
My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to lube it, then drive on again. My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can move. No battery disconnect needed. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's CRWLR wrote: > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > so > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Rich > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7.
My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to lube it, then drive on again. My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can move. No battery disconnect needed. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's CRWLR wrote: > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > so > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Rich > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7.
My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to lube it, then drive on again. My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can move. No battery disconnect needed. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's CRWLR wrote: > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > so > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Rich > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow,
but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > lube it, then drive on again. > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > > so > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > Rich > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow,
but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > lube it, then drive on again. > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > > so > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > Rich > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow,
but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > lube it, then drive on again. > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > > so > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > Rich > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow,
but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > lube it, then drive on again. > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your CJ7. > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be locked. > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key probably > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key is > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at an > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the time. As > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they will > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase set > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 miles, > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is that if > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while out > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, but > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft and > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with out > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering column > > so > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > Rich > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Jeff,
I haven't tried that with my Dana 20, but my Dana 18 locked the driveshafts together while in neutral. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Jeff,
I haven't tried that with my Dana 20, but my Dana 18 locked the driveshafts together while in neutral. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Jeff,
I haven't tried that with my Dana 20, but my Dana 18 locked the driveshafts together while in neutral. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hi Jeff,
I haven't tried that with my Dana 20, but my Dana 18 locked the driveshafts together while in neutral. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
I am really curious why my owner's manual doesn't mention this. It
would seem to be a lot easier for long tows.... I have a funny feeling something gets missed that way. Mike CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
I am really curious why my owner's manual doesn't mention this. It
would seem to be a lot easier for long tows.... I have a funny feeling something gets missed that way. Mike CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
I am really curious why my owner's manual doesn't mention this. It
would seem to be a lot easier for long tows.... I have a funny feeling something gets missed that way. Mike CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
I am really curious why my owner's manual doesn't mention this. It
would seem to be a lot easier for long tows.... I have a funny feeling something gets missed that way. Mike CRWLR wrote: > > His Dana 300 is just like mine, too. The manual does say you can flat tow, > but it says you have to stop every 200 miles and let the motor run to splash > some oil onto the output shaft bearings and gear. If the front hubs are > locked, the front driveshaft will keep this stuff lubed while you drive. > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:40F53435.6E8A3B2E@sympatico.ca... > > He has a Dana 300 like my 86 CJ7. > > > > My original CJ7 owners manual says it is ok to tow it in t-case neutral > > with the driveshaft still hooked up. You then stop every 200 miles and > > run the engine in gear with the t-case still in neutral for a bit to > > lube it, then drive on again. > > > > My key also comes out once the ignition is unlocked so the wheel can > > move. No battery disconnect needed. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > CRWLR wrote: > > > > > > That is not entirely true about what you have to do to flat tow your > CJ7. > > > > > > Set the ignition to the OFF position and the steering will not be > locked. > > > Nobody is going to steal it while you are towing it, and the key > probably > > > can be removed with out setting the ignition to the Lock setting. My key > is > > > brand spanking new, and it comes out. > > > > > > I also leave my front hubs locked. This forces the front drive shaft to > > > turn, which forces the tcase to spin, which lubricates the output shaft > > > bearings for the rear driveshaft. Keep in mind that the tcase is set at > an > > > angle, so the front gears and bearings are soaked in oil all of the > time. As > > > they turn (from being dragged down the street behind your mo-home) they > will > > > sling oil onto the rear output shaft bearings for you. Leave the tcase > set > > > in N, and the trans set in 1st or R (or P, if available). > > > > > > I looked at the cost of modifying the tcase on my CJ5, and the hassle of > > > disconnecting the driveshaft for short pulls of typically under 100 > miles, > > > and decided a trailer is the way to go. An advantage of a trailer is > that if > > > the Jeep breaks, all you need worry about is getting back to camp and > > > getting it loaded up. I had a wheel bearing decide to take leave while > out > > > in the desert. I had to replace the bearing before I could go home. That > > > could have been a serious problem. Actually, iit was a serious problem, > but > > > I had the tools needed to overcome the obsiticle. > > > > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:3eHIc.28574$SO5.16937@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > I flat tow my CJ behind my RV. Right now I have to pull the driveshaft > and > > > > disconnect the battery so I can turn on the ignition key to unlock the > > > > steering column. I'm going to modify the D300 so I can flat tow with > out > > > > removing the driveshaft, but I don't know how to mod the steering > column > > > so > > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Rich > > > > > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
>I don't know how to mod the steering
>> column >> > > so >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, reinstall. That's it. Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA '83 CJ-7 '46 Bantam BT3C '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm |
Re: Steering column locing question.
>I don't know how to mod the steering
>> column >> > > so >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, reinstall. That's it. Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA '83 CJ-7 '46 Bantam BT3C '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm |
Re: Steering column locing question.
>I don't know how to mod the steering
>> column >> > > so >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, reinstall. That's it. Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA '83 CJ-7 '46 Bantam BT3C '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm |
Re: Steering column locing question.
>I don't know how to mod the steering
>> column >> > > so >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, reinstall. That's it. Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA '83 CJ-7 '46 Bantam BT3C '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having
been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. Rich Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > >I don't know how to mod the steering > >> column > >> > > so > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > reinstall. That's it. > > Robert Bills > KG6LMV > Orange County CA > > '83 CJ-7 > '46 Bantam BT3C > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having
been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. Rich Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > >I don't know how to mod the steering > >> column > >> > > so > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > reinstall. That's it. > > Robert Bills > KG6LMV > Orange County CA > > '83 CJ-7 > '46 Bantam BT3C > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having
been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. Rich Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > >I don't know how to mod the steering > >> column > >> > > so > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > reinstall. That's it. > > Robert Bills > KG6LMV > Orange County CA > > '83 CJ-7 > '46 Bantam BT3C > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having
been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. Rich Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > >I don't know how to mod the steering > >> column > >> > > so > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with teeth > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > reinstall. That's it. > > Robert Bills > KG6LMV > Orange County CA > > '83 CJ-7 > '46 Bantam BT3C > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Good to know, thanks.
Mike Richard Harris wrote: > > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Good to know, thanks.
Mike Richard Harris wrote: > > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Good to know, thanks.
Mike Richard Harris wrote: > > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Good to know, thanks.
Mike Richard Harris wrote: > > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hey I just thought of something... I've got a Detroit Locker in the front
diff.... Hmmm..that could definitely affect how it follows the RV...Any thoughts? I wish I could get a trailer... but cash is pretty low after buying the RV. Also towing weight is already close to max without adding the weight of the trailer. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:aJDJc.43792$Fy.43227@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hey I just thought of something... I've got a Detroit Locker in the front
diff.... Hmmm..that could definitely affect how it follows the RV...Any thoughts? I wish I could get a trailer... but cash is pretty low after buying the RV. Also towing weight is already close to max without adding the weight of the trailer. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:aJDJc.43792$Fy.43227@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > > > |
Re: Steering column locing question.
Hey I just thought of something... I've got a Detroit Locker in the front
diff.... Hmmm..that could definitely affect how it follows the RV...Any thoughts? I wish I could get a trailer... but cash is pretty low after buying the RV. Also towing weight is already close to max without adding the weight of the trailer. "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:aJDJc.43792$Fy.43227@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks to all.I haven't thought of the front hubs deal. But after having > been in the D300 I can see it will work no problem. Great idea! I'll check > the column lock deal but since I'm going to rebuild the column soon I'll > just do as Robert suggested. Thanks to all for the help. > Rich > Mike as far as towing and stopping every 200 miles, my manual tells me the > same thing but I personally know guys who've done that and ended up > rebuilding the output side of the T-case after the bearings have burned out. > Even after a 50-100mile run that bearing gets pretty hot. > "Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message > news:20040714185224.06719.00001478@mb-m13.aol.com... > > >I don't know how to mod the steering > > >> column > > >> > > so > > >> > > > it doesn't lock up when I remove the key... Any suggestions? > > > > Pull the steering wheel. Inside the column you will find a ring with > teeth > > that engage when the steering is locked. Remove, file off the teeth, > > reinstall. That's it. > > > > Robert Bills > > KG6LMV > > Orange County CA > > > > '83 CJ-7 > > '46 Bantam BT3C > > '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel > > http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm > > > > |
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