Start up after storage
02-22-2007, 08:46 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
02-22-2007, 08:46 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
02-22-2007, 08:46 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
Don't pull any gaskets. Why make more work for yourself than necessary?
Check what the oil in there looks like first. Make sure it's not ruined by
water or otherwise gunked up. You'll want to change that oil anyway but if
it's bad you'd want to do it before restarting it.
Pull the plugs. Put a bit of oil into each cylinder through the plug hole.
Leave this in there for a couple of days. Get an attachment for your drill,
pull the distributor (after marking it's placement FIRST) and use the drill
to rotate the engine. This will SLOWLY turn the oil pump and get all the
surfaces lubricated BEFORE it's ever started. Having the surfaces
lubricated this way greatly reduces the likelihood of damage.
This is pretty much the same process anyone with a boat goes through when
recommissioning in the spring. Which will be in about three weeks for ours.
02-22-2007, 09:43 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
For only a year of storage, I would just start it up unless you are
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
02-22-2007, 09:43 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
For only a year of storage, I would just start it up unless you are
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
02-22-2007, 09:43 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
For only a year of storage, I would just start it up unless you are
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
really paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that
matter) before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on
the charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up.
Pulling the plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what
humidity you stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in
the frozen north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
Let it run for 20 to 30 minutes, change the oil and filter. Check for
leaks in the cooling system. Consider flushing and refill the coolant
with new antifreeze.
83 CJ wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Been monitoring the group and had a quick question.
>
> I've had my CJ in storage for the past year and am getting ready to
> redeploy this Spring and start it up again. Wanted to ask what the
> best way to do the initial start up is. Since it hasn't run in a year
> I'm assuming all the oil is down in the pan.
>
> I plan to change the oil first, and thought about puling the valve
> cover gaskets and pouting a quart down each side when I refill it.
> Should I pull the plugs and put a _small_ amount of oil in each
> cycilinder? Anything else?
>
> Thanks.
>
02-22-2007, 10:59 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Start up after storage
I had a friend that had a 73 Caddy Eldorado 503ci ( I know caddy has
nothing to do with the group), it sat for 15years and when he started it,
all he had to do was buy a new battery and put some new gas in it. but then
once he got it out of the yard on the road, theres a different story, brake
lines, tires, brake pads...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ZZhDh.5268$Jl.2639@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
> For only a year of storage, I would just start it up unless you are really
> paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that matter)
> before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on the
> charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up. Pulling the
> plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what humidity you
> stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in the frozen
> north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
>
> The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
> starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
>
>
nothing to do with the group), it sat for 15years and when he started it,
all he had to do was buy a new battery and put some new gas in it. but then
once he got it out of the yard on the road, theres a different story, brake
lines, tires, brake pads...
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:ZZhDh.5268$Jl.2639@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
> For only a year of storage, I would just start it up unless you are really
> paranoid. I would NOT change the filter (or the the oil for that matter)
> before starting up. Check the coolant level. Put the battery on the
> charger for a day or so to get it fully charged and warmed up. Pulling the
> plugs and adding oil is a nice thought, depends on what humidity you
> stored it at. A must on the gulf coast, the cold weather in the frozen
> north seems to put rust in hibernation like the rest of things.
>
> The carb will be dry, it will take a fair amount of cranking before it
> starts, this will bring oil up into the mains and rods.
>
>