>>The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
>>get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need to
>>worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The bumper
>>then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
>>you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
>>raising the third brake light about an inch or so.

Another alternative is to take off the little rubber bumpers on the tailgate and
shorten them. That will let the tire go further back so that the studs are now long
enough.

 

>>The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
>>get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need to
>>worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The bumper
>>then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
>>you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
>>raising the third brake light about an inch or so.

Another alternative is to take off the little rubber bumpers on the tailgate and
shorten them. That will let the tire go further back so that the studs are now long
enough.

 

>>The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
>>get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need to
>>worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The bumper
>>then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
>>you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
>>raising the third brake light about an inch or so.

Another alternative is to take off the little rubber bumpers on the tailgate and
shorten them. That will let the tire go further back so that the studs are now long
enough.

 

I think you're correct, his tires should bolt right up to the stock carrier
without an adapter. FWIW, I have a Tomken adapter I'll sell el- cheapo to
get rid of it.


"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

 

I think you're correct, his tires should bolt right up to the stock carrier
without an adapter. FWIW, I have a Tomken adapter I'll sell el- cheapo to
get rid of it.


"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

 

I think you're correct, his tires should bolt right up to the stock carrier
without an adapter. FWIW, I have a Tomken adapter I'll sell el- cheapo to
get rid of it.


"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

 

I think you're correct, his tires should bolt right up to the stock carrier
without an adapter. FWIW, I have a Tomken adapter I'll sell el- cheapo to
get rid of it.


"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

 

"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

I know my first post was a little more in depth, but I am an engineer by
trade and tend to overcomplicate things at times. I have been dealing with
this exact problem myself. I bought a new set of 32x11.50x15 this past
Saturday. Anyway, I started thinking a little bit out of the box and decided
try something else. Earlier this morning after my first post I just aired
down the new tire to about 25 PSI and it popped right on the stock carrier
enough to get the lug nuts on. Then I tightened it up and re-aired the spare
back up to 32 PSI. No problems whatsoever. However, the 3rd brake light must
still be extended about an inch to clear the new tire. The only problem you
might encounter is the rear windshield wiper arm rubbing on the 3rd brake
light body if you are running with a hard top. No problems obviously with a
soft top or no top.

Regards again,

GK

 

"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

I know my first post was a little more in depth, but I am an engineer by
trade and tend to overcomplicate things at times. I have been dealing with
this exact problem myself. I bought a new set of 32x11.50x15 this past
Saturday. Anyway, I started thinking a little bit out of the box and decided
try something else. Earlier this morning after my first post I just aired
down the new tire to about 25 PSI and it popped right on the stock carrier
enough to get the lug nuts on. Then I tightened it up and re-aired the spare
back up to 32 PSI. No problems whatsoever. However, the 3rd brake light must
still be extended about an inch to clear the new tire. The only problem you
might encounter is the rear windshield wiper arm rubbing on the 3rd brake
light body if you are running with a hard top. No problems obviously with a
soft top or no top.

Regards again,

GK

 

"GK" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:IUHuc.21338$mQ4.20261@fe2.texas.rr.com...
>
> "TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
> news:c9eo0p$d0f$1@news.wave.co.nz...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I have changed the tyres from stock to 265/75R16 BFG Muds, but the
problem
> > now is mounting the full size spare tyre on the factory mount. I have
> seen
> > two options on the Internet, and the third was suggested by a friend.
> > Anybody had any experiences?
> >
> > 1) Buying a Tomken relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches out
> > and slightly higher.
> >
> > 2) Buying a Teraflex relocation kit - moving the tyre about 2.5 inches
out
> > and slightly higher. This is about half the price of option 1, but
looks
> > similar in design to option 1.
> >
> > 3) 2 inch wheel spacer on the mounting surface - moving the tyre about 2
> > inches out, but not any higher.
> >
> > I have the longer bolts from a local hardware store for raising the
third
> > brake light. My question is which one of the above is likely to be okay
> > with my hardtop rear glass not hitting the tyre while opening/raising.
> >
> > Items 1 and 2 will have to be bought off the Internet and I would have
to
> > pay international shipping as well. Wheel spacer I can probably source
> > from a local tyre shop.
> >
> > What can I do to increase the rubber stumps on the tail gate to match
the
> > space after spare tyre relocation, which ensures there is minimal
> > vibrations of the spare tyre.
> >
> > Thanks
> > TW
> >
> >
>
>
> Are you sure that your wheel will not mount? Your new tires equate to
> basically a 31"x10.50"xR15 LT tire and I believe are the same size tires
> that come stock on the Rubicon here in the states. Did you get new wheels
> with a different off-set (backspacing)? You stated that your TJ is a 2001
> and it may have shorter mounting studs on the spare tire mount, thus
causing
> your problem.
>
> One other cheaper trick to do is get the 3 stock mounting studs knocked
out
> of the carrier and replace them with longer, 1/2" Diameter (Grade 8) bolts
> (Maybe about an Inch longer) and use washers and a lock nut to mount them
in
> the holes on the mounting plate. The hitch is that the 3 studs are tack
> welded in and not pressed in like the studs in your wheel hubs. The top 2
> should be fairly easy to get out, but the lower 3rd stud is harder to
reach.
> It may have to be torched out.
>
> The main problem is the studs not being long enough to catch the spare and
> get a lug on them. Longer bolts get you around this and you will not need
to
> worry about raising the spare up unless you go up to a 33" tire. The
bumper
> then gets in the way on the bottom. Also, with longer studs on the mount,
> you should not have to worry about extending the rubber bump stops, only
> raising the third brake light about an inch or so.
>
> Regards,
>
> GK
>
>

I know my first post was a little more in depth, but I am an engineer by
trade and tend to overcomplicate things at times. I have been dealing with
this exact problem myself. I bought a new set of 32x11.50x15 this past
Saturday. Anyway, I started thinking a little bit out of the box and decided
try something else. Earlier this morning after my first post I just aired
down the new tire to about 25 PSI and it popped right on the stock carrier
enough to get the lug nuts on. Then I tightened it up and re-aired the spare
back up to 32 PSI. No problems whatsoever. However, the 3rd brake light must
still be extended about an inch to clear the new tire. The only problem you
might encounter is the rear windshield wiper arm rubbing on the 3rd brake
light body if you are running with a hard top. No problems obviously with a
soft top or no top.

Regards again,

GK