Thanks,

What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?

Andrew Whitley

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:<bWikc.2443$u_4.251@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>...
> Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
> group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
> asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
> these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
> from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
> is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
> that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
> possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
> slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
> are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
> a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
> looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
> dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
> rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
> drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
> applcation.
>
> Chris
>
> "Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> > In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> > 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> > the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> > crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> > hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> > mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> > a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
> >
> > Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> > ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> > pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> > http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
> >
> > And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> > being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> > realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> > huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
> >
> > Any thoughts or first hand experiences?

 

Thanks,

What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?

Andrew Whitley

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:<bWikc.2443$u_4.251@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>...
> Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
> group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
> asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
> these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
> from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
> is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
> that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
> possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
> slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
> are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
> a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
> looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
> dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
> rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
> drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
> applcation.
>
> Chris
>
> "Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> > In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> > 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> > the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> > crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> > hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> > mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> > a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
> >
> > Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> > ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> > pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> > http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
> >
> > And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> > being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> > realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> > huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
> >
> > Any thoughts or first hand experiences?

 

Thanks,

What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?

Andrew Whitley

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:<bWikc.2443$u_4.251@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>...
> Andrew, if you Google this subject, it was talked about a while back in this
> group. I'll give my 2 cents just like last time. I do a lot of work with
> asphalt circle track cars and we do not use slotted rotors. The rotors on
> these cars get red hot from the repeated braking. The cars are slowing down
> from about 100mph to about 50mph in the corners. The lap times of these cars
> is about 14 seconds, so the braking happens every 7 seconds. The company
> that make the rotors has tested slotted, drilled and just about every other
> possible configuraton and the solid vented rotor works best. The drilled and
> slotted rotors were more prone to cracking under these conditions. If you
> are looking for increased braking capacity, then the best way to do that is
> a custom brake rotor with the largest diameter possible. You are also
> looking for the pad that gives the most braking torque you can find. This is
> dependent on the material used for the pads. Heat shouldn't be an issue for
> rock crawling so I wouldn't worry about whether the rotors are slotted or
> drilled. It is an unnecessary, and probably unwanted, expense for your
> applcation.
>
> Chris
>
> "Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8b5c891c.0404282354.136b8b9@posting.google.co m...
> > In December, when I get back, I'm building my Jeep. I'm going to
> > 33's, adding a lot of weight, and a stroker, so I'm going to replace
> > the braking system. I have read that slotted rotors are bad when rock
> > crawling in case rocks get trapped and scratch them, but on the same
> > hand they say they were designed for both track and off-road racing in
> > mind. I don't see how a slotted rotor will get any more damaged than
> > a stock rotor - a rock will do equal damage to either of them.
> >
> > Basically, I see 2 possibilities - replace the rotors with the best
> > ones I can find at an auto parts store and put on Performance Friction
> > pads, or replace the system with a Praise Dyno kit:
> > http://www.praisedynobrake.com/stage-iidd.htm
> >
> > And yes, I do know that they are dead wrong about cryogenic rotors
> > being denser - the density remains the same, but the atomic
> > realignment makes it stronger. I read once that the PF pads were a
> > huge difference, and this system was a huge difference from PF.
> >
> > Any thoughts or first hand experiences?

 

Are the DC rotors from my TJ (03 Rubi) still the half-assed quality
that they used to be? Would it be a good idea to replace them with
some good aftermarket ones from an auto parts store? I've run across
plenty of people swearing by Performance Friction pads, and they're
not too expensive. With those, since I run heavy because of armor,
bumpers, cage, tools, and will sometimes pull an offroad trail spare
and camping gear trailer (keeping the weight down below 2000 lbs to
keep from flirting with disaster) should I go for their regular pads
or the Z-rated, which includes racing and towing?

Also, in extended off-road racing what brake systems are considered
the most bulletproof? Does the same principle apply here as well -
dirt, mud, and rocks are bad news for brakes?

Thanks for your help - I pulled and read all the google searches on
slotted rotors and understand a little better now.

 

Are the DC rotors from my TJ (03 Rubi) still the half-assed quality
that they used to be? Would it be a good idea to replace them with
some good aftermarket ones from an auto parts store? I've run across
plenty of people swearing by Performance Friction pads, and they're
not too expensive. With those, since I run heavy because of armor,
bumpers, cage, tools, and will sometimes pull an offroad trail spare
and camping gear trailer (keeping the weight down below 2000 lbs to
keep from flirting with disaster) should I go for their regular pads
or the Z-rated, which includes racing and towing?

Also, in extended off-road racing what brake systems are considered
the most bulletproof? Does the same principle apply here as well -
dirt, mud, and rocks are bad news for brakes?

Thanks for your help - I pulled and read all the google searches on
slotted rotors and understand a little better now.

 

Are the DC rotors from my TJ (03 Rubi) still the half-assed quality
that they used to be? Would it be a good idea to replace them with
some good aftermarket ones from an auto parts store? I've run across
plenty of people swearing by Performance Friction pads, and they're
not too expensive. With those, since I run heavy because of armor,
bumpers, cage, tools, and will sometimes pull an offroad trail spare
and camping gear trailer (keeping the weight down below 2000 lbs to
keep from flirting with disaster) should I go for their regular pads
or the Z-rated, which includes racing and towing?

Also, in extended off-road racing what brake systems are considered
the most bulletproof? Does the same principle apply here as well -
dirt, mud, and rocks are bad news for brakes?

Thanks for your help - I pulled and read all the google searches on
slotted rotors and understand a little better now.

 

Are the DC rotors from my TJ (03 Rubi) still the half-assed quality
that they used to be? Would it be a good idea to replace them with
some good aftermarket ones from an auto parts store? I've run across
plenty of people swearing by Performance Friction pads, and they're
not too expensive. With those, since I run heavy because of armor,
bumpers, cage, tools, and will sometimes pull an offroad trail spare
and camping gear trailer (keeping the weight down below 2000 lbs to
keep from flirting with disaster) should I go for their regular pads
or the Z-rated, which includes racing and towing?

Also, in extended off-road racing what brake systems are considered
the most bulletproof? Does the same principle apply here as well -
dirt, mud, and rocks are bad news for brakes?

Thanks for your help - I pulled and read all the google searches on
slotted rotors and understand a little better now.

 

slotted rotors have saw cuts in the faces. In effect, dirt scoops. Vented
rotors have a hollow middle with air holes at the inner and outer edges. I
have seen these pack up with gravel, too, but it's not much of a hazard as
it shears.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404292304.71190712@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks,
>
> What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?

 

slotted rotors have saw cuts in the faces. In effect, dirt scoops. Vented
rotors have a hollow middle with air holes at the inner and outer edges. I
have seen these pack up with gravel, too, but it's not much of a hazard as
it shears.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404292304.71190712@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks,
>
> What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?

 

slotted rotors have saw cuts in the faces. In effect, dirt scoops. Vented
rotors have a hollow middle with air holes at the inner and outer edges. I
have seen these pack up with gravel, too, but it's not much of a hazard as
it shears.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
"Andrew" <andrewmuaddib@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b5c891c.0404292304.71190712@posting.google.c om...
> Thanks,
>
> What is the difference between solid vented rotors and slotted rotors?