Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
09-04-2006, 11:43 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
leak runs down the whole shock.
In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
one.
On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:
> Jay wrote:
> > Hi again,
> >
> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> > absorber
> > Here is a photo:
> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>
> > So anyway a few questions:
> >
> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> > time?
>
> Yes
>
> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>
> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
> something.
>
> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>
> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>
> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>
> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> > absorber?
>
> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>
--
Will Honea
brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
leak runs down the whole shock.
In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
one.
On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:
> Jay wrote:
> > Hi again,
> >
> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> > absorber
> > Here is a photo:
> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>
> > So anyway a few questions:
> >
> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> > time?
>
> Yes
>
> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>
> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
> something.
>
> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>
> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>
> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>
> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> > absorber?
>
> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>
--
Will Honea
09-04-2006, 11:43 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
leak runs down the whole shock.
In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
one.
On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:
> Jay wrote:
> > Hi again,
> >
> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> > absorber
> > Here is a photo:
> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>
> > So anyway a few questions:
> >
> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> > time?
>
> Yes
>
> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>
> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
> something.
>
> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>
> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>
> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>
> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> > absorber?
>
> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>
--
Will Honea
brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
leak runs down the whole shock.
In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
one.
On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
wrote:
> Jay wrote:
> > Hi again,
> >
> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> > absorber
> > Here is a photo:
> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>
> > So anyway a few questions:
> >
> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> > time?
>
> Yes
>
> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>
> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
> something.
>
> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>
> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>
> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>
> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> > absorber?
>
> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>
--
Will Honea
09-04-2006, 11:49 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I've tried using that before, but on a Cherokee I find it's a PITA to hold
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
09-04-2006, 11:49 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I've tried using that before, but on a Cherokee I find it's a PITA to hold
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
09-04-2006, 11:49 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I've tried using that before, but on a Cherokee I find it's a PITA to hold
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted
nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break
the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench.
My .02
Carl
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-dMFffIwgHPBS@anon.none.net...
>I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
> brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top
> of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the
> leak runs down the whole shock.
>
> In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount
> you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part
> where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just
> round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that
> top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new
> one.
>
> On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address>
> wrote:
>
>> Jay wrote:
>> > Hi again,
>> >
>> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
>> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
>> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
>> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
>> > absorber
>> > Here is a photo:
>> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>>
>> I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
>>
>> > So anyway a few questions:
>> >
>> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
>> > time?
>>
>> Yes
>>
>> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
>>
>> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
>> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
>> something.
>>
>> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
>>
>> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
>> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
>> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
>> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
>>
>> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
>> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
>>
>> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
>> > absorber?
>>
>> As long as the book says it takes. :)
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea