Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
09-04-2006, 01:15 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Hi again,
Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
Here is a photo:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
So anyway a few questions:
1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
Thanks in advance,
Jay
Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
Here is a photo:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
So anyway a few questions:
1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
Thanks in advance,
Jay
09-04-2006, 02:00 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
Always
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Hmmmm depends on the amount of rust. No rust = easy
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
$20-$100 each depending on your needs. Unless you do regular and serious
off-roading you will get excellent service from Monroe or Gabriel shocks (or
whatever name brand your corner auto-parts store pushes)
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
They work book rate so it really doesn't matter. If he does it in 15
minutes or 8 hours you will still get charged the book rate.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
Jay Start by soaking all the nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid several
days in advance. As your Jeep is a '96 it is fairly certain there is some
rust. PB Blaster seems to *currently* be the best. You will be unhappy
with WD-40's performance
In addition to the wrench sizes called for you will need jackstands,
vise-grips, a hacksaw with a good blade, and perhaps a propane torch.
You won't necessarily be needing the torch but if you haven't already got
one already you will need it for household plumbing repairs eventually.
Sometimes a frozen nut will respond to heat when brute force fails.
A long handled breaker bar or a piece of pipe that will fit will often make
the difference in removal.
It is recommended that you use a torque wrench when tightening the
nuts/bolts. If you haven't got one or a friend with one you can rent one
(at no charge) from many auto-parts stores with a deposit.
There is little advanced skill required, mostly just patience and a strong
arm (or a pipe to extend that breaker bar)
If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect opportunity
to buy that air compressor. They are useful but certainly not required.
09-04-2006, 02:00 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
Always
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Hmmmm depends on the amount of rust. No rust = easy
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
$20-$100 each depending on your needs. Unless you do regular and serious
off-roading you will get excellent service from Monroe or Gabriel shocks (or
whatever name brand your corner auto-parts store pushes)
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
They work book rate so it really doesn't matter. If he does it in 15
minutes or 8 hours you will still get charged the book rate.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
Jay Start by soaking all the nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid several
days in advance. As your Jeep is a '96 it is fairly certain there is some
rust. PB Blaster seems to *currently* be the best. You will be unhappy
with WD-40's performance
In addition to the wrench sizes called for you will need jackstands,
vise-grips, a hacksaw with a good blade, and perhaps a propane torch.
You won't necessarily be needing the torch but if you haven't already got
one already you will need it for household plumbing repairs eventually.
Sometimes a frozen nut will respond to heat when brute force fails.
A long handled breaker bar or a piece of pipe that will fit will often make
the difference in removal.
It is recommended that you use a torque wrench when tightening the
nuts/bolts. If you haven't got one or a friend with one you can rent one
(at no charge) from many auto-parts stores with a deposit.
There is little advanced skill required, mostly just patience and a strong
arm (or a pipe to extend that breaker bar)
If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect opportunity
to buy that air compressor. They are useful but certainly not required.
09-04-2006, 02:00 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
Always
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Hmmmm depends on the amount of rust. No rust = easy
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
$20-$100 each depending on your needs. Unless you do regular and serious
off-roading you will get excellent service from Monroe or Gabriel shocks (or
whatever name brand your corner auto-parts store pushes)
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
They work book rate so it really doesn't matter. If he does it in 15
minutes or 8 hours you will still get charged the book rate.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
Jay Start by soaking all the nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid several
days in advance. As your Jeep is a '96 it is fairly certain there is some
rust. PB Blaster seems to *currently* be the best. You will be unhappy
with WD-40's performance
In addition to the wrench sizes called for you will need jackstands,
vise-grips, a hacksaw with a good blade, and perhaps a propane torch.
You won't necessarily be needing the torch but if you haven't already got
one already you will need it for household plumbing repairs eventually.
Sometimes a frozen nut will respond to heat when brute force fails.
A long handled breaker bar or a piece of pipe that will fit will often make
the difference in removal.
It is recommended that you use a torque wrench when tightening the
nuts/bolts. If you haven't got one or a friend with one you can rent one
(at no charge) from many auto-parts stores with a deposit.
There is little advanced skill required, mostly just patience and a strong
arm (or a pipe to extend that breaker bar)
If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect opportunity
to buy that air compressor. They are useful but certainly not required.
09-04-2006, 02:34 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay,
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
09-04-2006, 02:34 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay,
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
09-04-2006, 02:34 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay,
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is
not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your
Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you
drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself.
About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can
of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease,
the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that
will be 'just enough' to get the job done.
To Remove:
Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the
two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top
of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the
nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large
pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by
collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal,
the old shocks are now garbage.
To Install:
The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is
flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin.
If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one.
Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside
of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be
very difficult but it will eventually go in.
After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock
mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings
and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down
on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the
bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the
nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the
nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid
tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be
fine.
Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount.
Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and
tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy.
Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save
on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed
instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee.
HTH
Carl
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AaZKg.10220$DB3.340@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After
> taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it
> wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the
> Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber
>
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
>
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time?
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jay
>
09-04-2006, 04:19 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
09-04-2006, 04:19 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
09-04-2006, 04:19 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
> Hi again,
>
> Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee!
> After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little
> bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil
> leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock
> absorber
> Here is a photo:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg
I'd be checking the brake line just in case.....
> So anyway a few questions:
>
> 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same
> time?
Yes
> 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice?
Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other
excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix
something.
> 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber?
Varies. May as well check around for what a full set
will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free.
(fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like
they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp
I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and
fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for.
> 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock
> absorber?
As long as the book says it takes. :)
--
DougW
