Sandblasting Frame
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
I don't think the YJ frames were galvanized. Body panels were.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Wrangler frames are galvanized. You could take the zinc right off. Why?
>
> Earle
>
> "Lovs2fly" <lovs2fly@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:zImdnd-vjeVgXBDeRVn-gA@comcast.com...
>
>>I going to sandblast my frame on a 93 YJ. Anyone have experience having
>
> this
>
>>done? Then the tough question of paint or liner coating. I appreciate your
>>thoughts. Just starting a full rebuild.
>>
>>
>
>
>
Earle Horton wrote:
> Wrangler frames are galvanized. You could take the zinc right off. Why?
>
> Earle
>
> "Lovs2fly" <lovs2fly@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:zImdnd-vjeVgXBDeRVn-gA@comcast.com...
>
>>I going to sandblast my frame on a 93 YJ. Anyone have experience having
>
> this
>
>>done? Then the tough question of paint or liner coating. I appreciate your
>>thoughts. Just starting a full rebuild.
>>
>>
>
>
>
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Earle Horton wrote:
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Earle Horton wrote:
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Earle Horton wrote:
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
> If you have rusted areas, then I fully agree, but just don't take any zinc
> off.
>
> Earle
>
There's really no such thing as blasting and NOT taking zinc off unless
the blaster is a real expert at doing so. The exception to this is using
a weenie little blast unit that doesn't strip the zinc, but als doesn't
really burn everything off the steel clean as new. It might look good
with a little blast, but if you're using anything less than a 1" ID
blast hose, you're not really stripping. I've worked in an industrial
oxide blast room and I've probably done 100+ auto frames. I've also
blasted more miles of galvanized iron railings than I can ever remember
so I'm very familiar with blasting zinc.
Have it blasted with aluminum oxide. It's very abrasive and will strip
everything but steel off your frame. If there's any rot, it'll also burn
all the rust off it and leave it in satin-grey - that's what color steel
is when stripped. Weld up any damage/rot holes left from the blast, then
have it blasted again to strip 100% of welding slag away. You'll be very
happy wth the results no matter how picky you are about details this
way. Plastic blasting wil only take paint, most lead and bondo off. It
does next to nothing for rust removal, so don't waste yout time/money on
it with a frame.
Start with a good epoxy primer once the frame is blasted clean. "Green
death" acid based self-etching is the best, but kinda hard to find,
toxic as all get out (until dry, then it's safe) and expensive. The
tradeoff to the bad is that it protects as well or better than anything
you can use for any price. The blast facility I worked at did a ton of
stuff this way for the military - we did it better than even they could.
Choice of paint is up to you, but stick with an epoxy if you prime with
epoxy. Most auto paint is epoxy anyway. You can also powder-coat or
bedliner over primer and it'll last practically forever. I'm going to do
this (blast/weld/blast/prime/bedliner) to my 50 ****** Wagon frame. It's
not a showcar, but I only want to do this once. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
http://jeffgross.com/******
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Sandblasting Frame
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G
> Why sandblast first? POR sticks better to rusty metal.
>
> randy.mantle@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would sandblast the frame and then use POR-15. That seems to be the
>> best. Check out the instructions at http://por15store.com
>>
Sticks better to rusty metal? Not really.
If it's aluminum oxide blasted professionally, the surface of the metal
is very coarse and will hold POR or any other coating better than you
can imagine - far better than rusty metal and you're assured of ALL
scale being removed with blasting. Don't let your frame sit at the blast
shop for more than 24 hours after it's blasted. It'll start rusting from
the water in the air. Not too bad in the winter, but I've blasted things
in the shop at 5pm and had to reblast them in the morning because it was
humid overnight. Get it painted immediately even if it means hauling the
frame straight from the blast booth to the paint shop. Most blast
facilities will at least prime stuff for you. Don't go the hillbilly
route and prime something and delay getting it painted. You'll have rust
starting under the primer that you can't even see (it's porous and can
actually pull water from the air, holding it on the metal surface).
Primed metal only prevents rust about 2x to 4x as long as bare metal in
many cases.
POR works on the theory (and application) that it seals the surface so
well that oxygen can't reach the metal and rust underneath it so rust
(oxidation) can't continue. If you have a boxed frame, it'll rust
through from the other side. POR doesn't change rust into anything else,
only God & wizards can do that. :D
Just don't try AO blasting on sheetmetal unless you're dealing with a
true pro in the field handling the blast. It's real easy to punch holes
in anything you don't warp into unrecognizable shapes from excessive
heat from the blast. ;)
Cheers,
- Jeff G