Rust & Rot
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around the
metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently between and
after welds.
You don't want the metal getting too hot.
I am definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
;-)
I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my Lincoln
110V mig welder.
I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff tool too!
I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint on the sheet
metal in the near future.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>
> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads, until
> the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>
>
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>> actually do some body work! lol
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410121612590.24140@panix1.pani x.com...
>>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Doug wrote:
>>>
>>>> A while back I posted a few questions regarding frame rot & rust. There
>>>> were
>>>> several suggestions, which I appreciated! Last weekend I began the
>>>> process
>>>> of stripping everything down to the frame. Today the frame is ready for
>>>> repair and I'll be able to start on the body work.
>>>>
>>>> I'm trying to justify the purchase of a mig welder, but am not having
>>>> much
>>>> luck! A neighbor is going to take care of the frame for me, but he
>>>> isn't
>>>> sure if his welder will work on body panels.
>>>>
>>>> I'm hoping to wrap this project up within two months at the most.
>>>>
>>>> I'm not exactly sure what it will take to put it all back together, but
>>>> I'm
>>>> having fun!
>>>
>>> If you're like most of us, it'll take about 2 1/2 years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently between and
after welds.
You don't want the metal getting too hot.
I am definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
;-)
I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my Lincoln
110V mig welder.
I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff tool too!
I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint on the sheet
metal in the near future.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>
> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads, until
> the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>
>
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>> actually do some body work! lol
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410121612590.24140@panix1.pani x.com...
>>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Doug wrote:
>>>
>>>> A while back I posted a few questions regarding frame rot & rust. There
>>>> were
>>>> several suggestions, which I appreciated! Last weekend I began the
>>>> process
>>>> of stripping everything down to the frame. Today the frame is ready for
>>>> repair and I'll be able to start on the body work.
>>>>
>>>> I'm trying to justify the purchase of a mig welder, but am not having
>>>> much
>>>> luck! A neighbor is going to take care of the frame for me, but he
>>>> isn't
>>>> sure if his welder will work on body panels.
>>>>
>>>> I'm hoping to wrap this project up within two months at the most.
>>>>
>>>> I'm not exactly sure what it will take to put it all back together, but
>>>> I'm
>>>> having fun!
>>>
>>> If you're like most of us, it'll take about 2 1/2 years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around the
metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently between and
after welds.
You don't want the metal getting too hot.
I am definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
;-)
I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my Lincoln
110V mig welder.
I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff tool too!
I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint on the sheet
metal in the near future.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>
> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads, until
> the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>
>
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>> actually do some body work! lol
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410121612590.24140@panix1.pani x.com...
>>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Doug wrote:
>>>
>>>> A while back I posted a few questions regarding frame rot & rust. There
>>>> were
>>>> several suggestions, which I appreciated! Last weekend I began the
>>>> process
>>>> of stripping everything down to the frame. Today the frame is ready for
>>>> repair and I'll be able to start on the body work.
>>>>
>>>> I'm trying to justify the purchase of a mig welder, but am not having
>>>> much
>>>> luck! A neighbor is going to take care of the frame for me, but he
>>>> isn't
>>>> sure if his welder will work on body panels.
>>>>
>>>> I'm hoping to wrap this project up within two months at the most.
>>>>
>>>> I'm not exactly sure what it will take to put it all back together, but
>>>> I'm
>>>> having fun!
>>>
>>> If you're like most of us, it'll take about 2 1/2 years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently between and
after welds.
You don't want the metal getting too hot.
I am definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
;-)
I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my Lincoln
110V mig welder.
I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff tool too!
I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint on the sheet
metal in the near future.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>
> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads, until
> the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>
>
> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>> actually do some body work! lol
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410121612590.24140@panix1.pani x.com...
>>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Doug wrote:
>>>
>>>> A while back I posted a few questions regarding frame rot & rust. There
>>>> were
>>>> several suggestions, which I appreciated! Last weekend I began the
>>>> process
>>>> of stripping everything down to the frame. Today the frame is ready for
>>>> repair and I'll be able to start on the body work.
>>>>
>>>> I'm trying to justify the purchase of a mig welder, but am not having
>>>> much
>>>> luck! A neighbor is going to take care of the frame for me, but he
>>>> isn't
>>>> sure if his welder will work on body panels.
>>>>
>>>> I'm hoping to wrap this project up within two months at the most.
>>>>
>>>> I'm not exactly sure what it will take to put it all back together, but
>>>> I'm
>>>> having fun!
>>>
>>> If you're like most of us, it'll take about 2 1/2 years.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
Tool envy!
I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in
that guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel
with one of those.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
> on the sheet metal in the near future.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>
>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>
>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
[remainder snipped]
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
Tool envy!
I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in
that guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel
with one of those.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
> on the sheet metal in the near future.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>
>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>
>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
[remainder snipped]
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
Tool envy!
I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in
that guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel
with one of those.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
> on the sheet metal in the near future.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>
>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>
>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
[remainder snipped]
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
My weld quality went way up.
Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money.
Most have a punch head opposite the flange die.
When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a
panel.
You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru.
I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.
YMMV.
--
Replies to group please.
Tom Needham
'86 CJ7 4" Lift 33x12.5 BFGs
'96 XJ PMS
'01 WJ TS
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140857390.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
>
> I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a
> reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that
> guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one
> of those.
>
>
> On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around
>> the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently
>> between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am
>> definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also!
>> ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my
>> Lincoln 110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff
>> tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint
>> on the sheet metal in the near future.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
>>
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>
>> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
>> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410131234530.2687@panix3.panix .com...
>>>
>>> How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my
>>> hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads,
>>> until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 12 Oct 2004, dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>>>
>>>> mig is nice for body panels even without the gas.
>>>> I use a small Lincoln without using the gas. Makes me feel like I can
>>>> actually do some body work! lol
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal01.jpg
>>>> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in...newmetal02.jpg
>>>> later,
>>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> [remainder snipped]
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
I second the auto darkening helmet as being a must for the amateur welder. I've
got one of the cheepy Harbor Freight models. Because I only weld once in a
while I'm always out of practice, being able to stop and easily see what the
weld looks like makes all the difference.
Dean
>The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
>I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
>My weld quality went way up.
>Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
>
<snip>
>Replies to group please.
>Tom Needham
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
<snipped other stuff>
got one of the cheepy Harbor Freight models. Because I only weld once in a
while I'm always out of practice, being able to stop and easily see what the
weld looks like makes all the difference.
Dean
>The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
>I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
>My weld quality went way up.
>Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
>
<snip>
>Replies to group please.
>Tom Needham
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
<snipped other stuff>
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rust & Rot
I second the auto darkening helmet as being a must for the amateur welder. I've
got one of the cheepy Harbor Freight models. Because I only weld once in a
while I'm always out of practice, being able to stop and easily see what the
weld looks like makes all the difference.
Dean
>The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
>I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
>My weld quality went way up.
>Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
>
<snip>
>Replies to group please.
>Tom Needham
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
<snipped other stuff>
got one of the cheepy Harbor Freight models. Because I only weld once in a
while I'm always out of practice, being able to stop and easily see what the
weld looks like makes all the difference.
Dean
>The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must.
>I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project.
>My weld quality went way up.
>Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.
>
<snip>
>Replies to group please.
>Tom Needham
>
> Tool envy!
>
> I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an
> auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor
> Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.
<snipped other stuff>