Joe

The choke is closed by a spring. Mine had the same problem. Here's the
thread: http://tinyurl.com/yes9

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:K8fBb.117390$Vu6.15818@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "bllsht" <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote in message
> news:b4vatvojkfban0h025i4icfcfsug93gtss@4ax.com...
> > In message <SAdBb.113985$Eq1.18194@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "c" wrote:
> >
> > >"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> > >news:3FD55761.7060409@erols.com...
> > >> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> > >> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> > >> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> > >> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> > >> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working
> correctly?
> > >>
> > >
> > >When the engine is cold, remove the air cleaner and open the throttle
> about
> > >half way. the choke plate should shut on the top of the carb. It wont
> close
> > >all the way, but should have about 1/8" gap left. When the choke
closes,
> it
> > >will also actuate a fast idle cam on the carb. This will hold the
> throttle
> > >open a bit more than normal. Once you start the engine the choke should
> open
> > >a bit more. By the sounds of your description, it sounds like your
choke
> > >plate isn't closing enough or at all. If this is the case it is
probably
> a
> > >bad choke spring, or possibly the wire feeding it voltage is broken or
> > >unhooked.
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> >
> > The choke should close all the way when cold, and the engine not
running.
> If it
> > doesn't, something's wrong.
>
> I was shooting from the hip here since I don't have a Jeep, but many carbs
> have a small gap left where the choke doesn't close completely. Maybe his
> doesn't.
>
> >
> > Also, the wire going to the choke operates the heater to open the choke,
> not
> > close it.
>
>
> Yup, my bad. Not sure what I was thinking, it's late. ;-)
>
> Chris
>
>

Joe

The choke is closed by a spring. Mine had the same problem. Here's the
thread: http://tinyurl.com/yes9

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:K8fBb.117390$Vu6.15818@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "bllsht" <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote in message
> news:b4vatvojkfban0h025i4icfcfsug93gtss@4ax.com...
> > In message <SAdBb.113985$Eq1.18194@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "c" wrote:
> >
> > >"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> > >news:3FD55761.7060409@erols.com...
> > >> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> > >> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> > >> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> > >> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> > >> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working
> correctly?
> > >>
> > >
> > >When the engine is cold, remove the air cleaner and open the throttle
> about
> > >half way. the choke plate should shut on the top of the carb. It wont
> close
> > >all the way, but should have about 1/8" gap left. When the choke
closes,
> it
> > >will also actuate a fast idle cam on the carb. This will hold the
> throttle
> > >open a bit more than normal. Once you start the engine the choke should
> open
> > >a bit more. By the sounds of your description, it sounds like your
choke
> > >plate isn't closing enough or at all. If this is the case it is
probably
> a
> > >bad choke spring, or possibly the wire feeding it voltage is broken or
> > >unhooked.
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> >
> > The choke should close all the way when cold, and the engine not
running.
> If it
> > doesn't, something's wrong.
>
> I was shooting from the hip here since I don't have a Jeep, but many carbs
> have a small gap left where the choke doesn't close completely. Maybe his
> doesn't.
>
> >
> > Also, the wire going to the choke operates the heater to open the choke,
> not
> > close it.
>
>
> Yup, my bad. Not sure what I was thinking, it's late. ;-)
>
> Chris
>
>

Joe

The choke is closed by a spring. Mine had the same problem. Here's the
thread: http://tinyurl.com/yes9

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:K8fBb.117390$Vu6.15818@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "bllsht" <nospam@invaliddot.net> wrote in message
> news:b4vatvojkfban0h025i4icfcfsug93gtss@4ax.com...
> > In message <SAdBb.113985$Eq1.18194@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "c" wrote:
> >
> > >"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> > >news:3FD55761.7060409@erols.com...
> > >> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> > >> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> > >> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> > >> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> > >> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working
> correctly?
> > >>
> > >
> > >When the engine is cold, remove the air cleaner and open the throttle
> about
> > >half way. the choke plate should shut on the top of the carb. It wont
> close
> > >all the way, but should have about 1/8" gap left. When the choke
closes,
> it
> > >will also actuate a fast idle cam on the carb. This will hold the
> throttle
> > >open a bit more than normal. Once you start the engine the choke should
> open
> > >a bit more. By the sounds of your description, it sounds like your
choke
> > >plate isn't closing enough or at all. If this is the case it is
probably
> a
> > >bad choke spring, or possibly the wire feeding it voltage is broken or
> > >unhooked.
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> >
> > The choke should close all the way when cold, and the engine not
running.
> If it
> > doesn't, something's wrong.
>
> I was shooting from the hip here since I don't have a Jeep, but many carbs
> have a small gap left where the choke doesn't close completely. Maybe his
> doesn't.
>
> >
> > Also, the wire going to the choke operates the heater to open the choke,
> not
> > close it.
>
>
> Yup, my bad. Not sure what I was thinking, it's late. ;-)
>
> Chris
>
>

Mike Romain

I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.

If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
can move.

The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
choke spring.

I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
stayed moving.

The others have posted good ideas too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

Mike Romain

I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.

If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
can move.

The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
choke spring.

I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
stayed moving.

The others have posted good ideas too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

Mike Romain

I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.

If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
can move.

The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
choke spring.

I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
stayed moving.

The others have posted good ideas too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

FrankW

Yup same here, my old 88YJ choke seized shut.
A mechanic said it was a stuck valve.
good thing I went for a second opinion

Mike Romain wrote:
> I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.
>
> If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
> to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
> can move.
>
> The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
> will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
> choke spring.
>
> I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
> about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
> it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
> stayed moving.
>
> The others have posted good ideas too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Simon Juncal wrote:
>
>>My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
>>kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
>>with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
>>Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
>>around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

FrankW

Yup same here, my old 88YJ choke seized shut.
A mechanic said it was a stuck valve.
good thing I went for a second opinion

Mike Romain wrote:
> I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.
>
> If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
> to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
> can move.
>
> The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
> will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
> choke spring.
>
> I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
> about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
> it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
> stayed moving.
>
> The others have posted good ideas too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Simon Juncal wrote:
>
>>My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
>>kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
>>with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
>>Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
>>around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

FrankW

Yup same here, my old 88YJ choke seized shut.
A mechanic said it was a stuck valve.
good thing I went for a second opinion

Mike Romain wrote:
> I have seen 3 or more chokes seize up on the BBD carbs.
>
> If you follow the linkage from the choke plate down the side of the carb
> to the lever coming out of the electric choke unit, make sure that lever
> can move.
>
> The lever is on a bar that hooks to the choke spring. This bar can and
> will seize up solid where it goes through the metal case heading to the
> choke spring.
>
> I have had to remove them to clean them right. I got mine working for
> about 6 months by using penetrating oil and working it with pliers, but
> it still seized. After dismantling it and cleaning it good, it has
> stayed moving.
>
> The others have posted good ideas too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Simon Juncal wrote:
>
>>My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
>>kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
>>with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
>>Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
>>around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

Jim Boucher

In article <3FD5EE1D.9B788CF5@sympatico.ca>, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
writes:

>My 88 YJ has been starting rough lately, the choke doesn't seem to be
>> kicking in (low RPM's on a cold start) keeping the RMP's around 1500
>> with the gas for about a minute or so gets it past the roughness.
>> Otherwise it idles and starts perfectly. No stalling and idles right
>> around 500 to 700 RMP's. How can I tell if the choke it working correctly?

My 89YJ exhibited similar symptoms. The choke thermostat spring just weakened
over the years. I replaced the whole carb with a remanufactured Autozone unit,
complete with choke assy. for about $130.
Jim

88 Grand Wagoneer
89 Wrangler
00 Grand Cherokee