Rotors warping
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
You need to find a shop that knows how to properly install tires.
Hint: it isn't using an air impact gun.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Larry Greenwood wrote:
>
> With 30k miles, the brake rotors on 01 GC warped while on a trip. I managed
> to have them grounded and the front pads replaced for $260 at a jeep
> dealership.
>
> According to my owners manual rotors are excluded from warranty after 12k
> miles.
>
> Should I have to eventually replace the rotors in the future, are there some
> good products besides the original equipment?
>
> Larry Greenwood
Hint: it isn't using an air impact gun.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Larry Greenwood wrote:
>
> With 30k miles, the brake rotors on 01 GC warped while on a trip. I managed
> to have them grounded and the front pads replaced for $260 at a jeep
> dealership.
>
> According to my owners manual rotors are excluded from warranty after 12k
> miles.
>
> Should I have to eventually replace the rotors in the future, are there some
> good products besides the original equipment?
>
> Larry Greenwood
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
> I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of rotor
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
> I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of rotor
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
> I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of rotor
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
> I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of rotor
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
> that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999 or
> something...<<
Nope, Marko gives details in another post. DC changed rotors & calipers for
'02 MY and theres a TSB concerning '01. (DC tech service ame close to
adnmitting warped rotors are a near 100% fault on 99-01 GCs.)
My '01s rotors started to warp after about 8k miles and got progressively
worse until my local dealer swaped out the caliper/rotors under warranty
with 2002 spec assys per the TSB. 3k miles later they're starting to chatter
again.
FWIW, I always have to retorque the lugs after this thing gets a tire
rotation, etc. by the dealer. The factory torque spec range is 85 - 110 ft
lbs, which is a ludicrous variance. I think they just whack away with the
impact wrench and hope for the best.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 06:47:40 -0500, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 06:47:40 -0500, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 06:47:40 -0500, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
On Wed, 2 Jun 2004 06:47:40 -0500, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>Close second is heat-soak (heavy use followed by an extended period of
>sitting with the brakes on). That keeps the pads on the rotor and that one
>spot will not cool down as well as the rest. (yea, it isn't avoidable to
>some extent)
True, sometimes you can't help this, but if you know your brakes are
cooking hot and you have to come to a dead stop (like a traffic light
at the bottom of a long hill), come nearly to a full stop early and
let your truck creep slowly forward. It may tick off the person behind
you, but it will keep the heat-soaked pads moving to new areas of the
rotors.
Even better, if your truck has a seperate parking brake, take your
foot completely off the pedal after setting the hand brake. This lets
air circulate between the rotor and pads. Wait until there is a car
behind you so someone doesn't ram you, and don't forget to release the
parking brake!
Warped rotors suck. They can be such a nuisance!
John Davies
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rotors warping
My rotors warped at about 35k kms. The dealer turned them at the time and
I have driven for another 7k and so far they are holding. But in the
meantime, I have retorqued the lug nuts using my own torque wrench and I
try not to brake hard (unless the idiot in front of me decides to)!!
TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
Dana 44 rear, 265/75R16 BFG Muds
"marko" <nulll@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:xvkvc.17974$k4.360041@news1.nokia.com...
> SB wrote:
> > I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of
rotor
> > that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999
or
> > something...
>
> WJ's rotors and calipers changed 2002 at least in US market. For '99 to
> mid '02 WJs have n:th replacement TSB:
> http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#0500302b
>
> For 30K and warped rotors is a bit too early, grounded rotors (if this
> means turning, does not help on the long run) is trowing money away. The
> rotor is already heat damaged, and I would meet at halfway and pay half
> of new revised set (TSB).
>
> I have 0500501a TSB installed rotors and calipers in '01 WJ, product
> codes match b TSB list. They did not even last 20K miles, warped again.
> Lug nuts torqued and measured with calibrated tool when I changed summer
> tires to winter tires and back. Currently DC is trying to figure out
> whether they replace rotors anew under product warranty or not. TSB work
> was done in California, vehicle is now in Finland. Warranty was
> trasferred to European warranty upon move.
> If this does not turn out to be warranty work, I'll go for Stillen
rotors.
>
> Marko
I have driven for another 7k and so far they are holding. But in the
meantime, I have retorqued the lug nuts using my own torque wrench and I
try not to brake hard (unless the idiot in front of me decides to)!!
TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
Dana 44 rear, 265/75R16 BFG Muds
"marko" <nulll@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:xvkvc.17974$k4.360041@news1.nokia.com...
> SB wrote:
> > I had thought someone on here said that DC had gone to a new type of
rotor
> > that wouldn't warp as easily. Thought they had said it was after 1999
or
> > something...
>
> WJ's rotors and calipers changed 2002 at least in US market. For '99 to
> mid '02 WJs have n:th replacement TSB:
> http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb_list.htm#0500302b
>
> For 30K and warped rotors is a bit too early, grounded rotors (if this
> means turning, does not help on the long run) is trowing money away. The
> rotor is already heat damaged, and I would meet at halfway and pay half
> of new revised set (TSB).
>
> I have 0500501a TSB installed rotors and calipers in '01 WJ, product
> codes match b TSB list. They did not even last 20K miles, warped again.
> Lug nuts torqued and measured with calibrated tool when I changed summer
> tires to winter tires and back. Currently DC is trying to figure out
> whether they replace rotors anew under product warranty or not. TSB work
> was done in California, vehicle is now in Finland. Warranty was
> trasferred to European warranty upon move.
> If this does not turn out to be warranty work, I'll go for Stillen
rotors.
>
> Marko
