|
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote: > > > Mike -- > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? > > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount > matches it without stressing the hoses. > > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good > thing to do. > > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to > line up the shifters if needed. > > Mike OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision making. The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question -- I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? THANKS AGAIN! |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >> >>> Mike -- >>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to >>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep >>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that >>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the >>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, >>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? >> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The >> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount >> matches it without stressing the hoses. >> >> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing >> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body >> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good >> thing to do. >> >> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your >> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have >> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the >> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to >> line up the shifters if needed. >> >> Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN! > No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift! The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or shear in a fender bender also. The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the steering shaft length, etc. I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift. As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of the steering stops. To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >> >>> Mike -- >>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to >>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep >>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that >>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the >>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, >>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? >> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The >> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount >> matches it without stressing the hoses. >> >> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing >> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body >> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good >> thing to do. >> >> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your >> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have >> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the >> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to >> line up the shifters if needed. >> >> Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN! > No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift! The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or shear in a fender bender also. The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the steering shaft length, etc. I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift. As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of the steering stops. To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >> >>> Mike -- >>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to >>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep >>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that >>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the >>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, >>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? >> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The >> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount >> matches it without stressing the hoses. >> >> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing >> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body >> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good >> thing to do. >> >> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your >> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have >> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the >> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to >> line up the shifters if needed. >> >> Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN! > No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift! The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or shear in a fender bender also. The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the steering shaft length, etc. I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift. As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of the steering stops. To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >> >>> Mike -- >>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to >>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep >>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that >>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the >>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, >>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? >> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The >> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount >> matches it without stressing the hoses. >> >> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing >> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body >> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good >> thing to do. >> >> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your >> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have >> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the >> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to >> line up the shifters if needed. >> >> Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN! > No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift! The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or shear in a fender bender also. The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the steering shaft length, etc. I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift. As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of the steering stops. To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > > > > > Tracie wrote: > > > > Mike -- > > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to > > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep > > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that > > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the > > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, > > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? > > > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The > > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount > > matches it without stressing the hoses. > > > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing > > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body > > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good > > thing to do. > > > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your > > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have > > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the > > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to > > line up the shifters if needed. > > > Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2" that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire" look. Now I have two options.... A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one please? |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > > > > > Tracie wrote: > > > > Mike -- > > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to > > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep > > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that > > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the > > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, > > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? > > > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The > > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount > > matches it without stressing the hoses. > > > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing > > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body > > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good > > thing to do. > > > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your > > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have > > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the > > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to > > line up the shifters if needed. > > > Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2" that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire" look. Now I have two options.... A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one please? |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > > > > > Tracie wrote: > > > > Mike -- > > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to > > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep > > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that > > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the > > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, > > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? > > > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The > > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount > > matches it without stressing the hoses. > > > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing > > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body > > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good > > thing to do. > > > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your > > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have > > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the > > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to > > line up the shifters if needed. > > > Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2" that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire" look. Now I have two options.... A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one please? |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > > > > > Tracie wrote: > > > > Mike -- > > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to > > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep > > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that > > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the > > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case, > > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.? > > > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The > > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount > > matches it without stressing the hoses. > > > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing > > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body > > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good > > thing to do. > > > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your > > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have > > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the > > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to > > line up the shifters if needed. > > > Mike > > OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to > ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision > making. > > The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly > because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much > off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a > suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question > -- > > I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and > 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place > where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are > quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and > tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems > that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will > be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take > care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me > the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra > ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)? > > THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2" that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire" look. Now I have two options.... A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one please? |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
>> >> - Show quoted text - > > WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am > following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way > NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2" > that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will > be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire" > look. > > Now I have two options.... > A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch > shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch > shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one > please? > Too many numbers.... LOL! Coil spring spacers 'are' a suspension lift and add to the driveline issues so nice try but... See my other post about tires and your 'stock' Jeep. Mike |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:52 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands