Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end >>> sucking! : O >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. >> >> >> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud >>> and light trail riding. >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. >> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. >> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. >> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. >> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. >> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > lift? > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get up to shifting rpm. For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go. The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for 33's. Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push the suspension envelope. I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I like mine the way it is. Mike |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end >>> sucking! : O >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. >> >> >> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud >>> and light trail riding. >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. >> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. >> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. >> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. >> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. >> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > lift? > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get up to shifting rpm. For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go. The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for 33's. Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push the suspension envelope. I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I like mine the way it is. Mike |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: >> Tracie wrote: >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end >>> sucking! : O >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. >> >> >> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud >>> and light trail riding. >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. >> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. >> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. >> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. >> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. >> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. >> >> Mike >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > lift? > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get up to shifting rpm. For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go. The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for 33's. Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push the suspension envelope. I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I like mine the way it is. Mike |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote: > > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> Tracie wrote: > >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 > >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end > >>> sucking! : O > >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 > >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours > >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power > >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. > > >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still > >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too > >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be > >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud > >>> and light trail riding. > >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these > >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. > > >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so > >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power > >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. > > >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. > > >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the > >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs > >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. > > >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they > >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. > > >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, > >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. > >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get > >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. > > >> Mike > >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > > lift? > > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get > up to shifting rpm. > > For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I > can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about > 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find > out how fast 5th will go. > > The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a > 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. > > My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints > because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on > to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a > totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent > body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for > 33's. > > Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think > the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push > the suspension envelope. > > I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's > what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE > and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I > like mine the way it is. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches. THANKS for the info. |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote: > > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> Tracie wrote: > >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 > >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end > >>> sucking! : O > >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 > >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours > >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power > >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. > > >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still > >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too > >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be > >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud > >>> and light trail riding. > >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these > >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. > > >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so > >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power > >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. > > >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. > > >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the > >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs > >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. > > >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they > >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. > > >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, > >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. > >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get > >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. > > >> Mike > >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > > lift? > > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get > up to shifting rpm. > > For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I > can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about > 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find > out how fast 5th will go. > > The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a > 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. > > My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints > because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on > to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a > totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent > body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for > 33's. > > Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think > the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push > the suspension envelope. > > I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's > what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE > and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I > like mine the way it is. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches. THANKS for the info. |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote: > > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> Tracie wrote: > >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 > >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end > >>> sucking! : O > >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 > >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours > >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power > >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. > > >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still > >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too > >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be > >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud > >>> and light trail riding. > >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these > >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. > > >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so > >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power > >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. > > >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. > > >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the > >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs > >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. > > >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they > >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. > > >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, > >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. > >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get > >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. > > >> Mike > >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > > lift? > > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get > up to shifting rpm. > > For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I > can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about > 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find > out how fast 5th will go. > > The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a > 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. > > My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints > because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on > to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a > totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent > body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for > 33's. > > Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think > the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push > the suspension envelope. > > I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's > what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE > and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I > like mine the way it is. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches. THANKS for the info. |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote: > > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > >> Tracie wrote: > >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6 > >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end > >>> sucking! : O > >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2 > >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours > >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power > >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition. > > >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still > >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too > >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be > >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud > >>> and light trail riding. > >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these > >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears. > > >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so > >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power > >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear. > > >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely. > > >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the > >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs > >> from mud. You do have 4 low though. > > >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they > >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out. > > >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on, > >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies. > >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get > >> hung up on stumps and stuff still. > > >> Mike > >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... > >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the > > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to > > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with > > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and > > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills > > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads. > > > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO > > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE? > > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body > > lift? > > The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get > up to shifting rpm. > > For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I > can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about > 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find > out how fast 5th will go. > > The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a > 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift. > > My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints > because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on > to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a > totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent > body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for > 33's. > > Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think > the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push > the suspension envelope. > > I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's > what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE > and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I > like mine the way it is. > > Mike- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches. THANKS for the info. |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and > according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and > SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. Cool! If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the same. This keeps your clearance way up there. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and > according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and > SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. Cool! If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the same. This keeps your clearance way up there. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and > according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and > SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. Cool! If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the same. This keeps your clearance way up there. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
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