Replacing a Window Regulator?
10-29-2005, 02:32 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
10-29-2005, 02:32 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
10-29-2005, 02:32 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
to the glass on both doors.
I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
them again.
I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
boneyard.
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
wrote:
> This is an annoying task.
>
> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>
> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might be a
> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that the
> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>
> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder wrench".
> http://tinyurl.com/858az
> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the pins
> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from spinning.
>
> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me know.
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im gonna
> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best way
> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools will
> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
10-29-2005, 08:14 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
Thanks for the info guys, I'm really not looking forward to this. is there
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-29-2005, 08:14 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
Thanks for the info guys, I'm really not looking forward to this. is there
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-29-2005, 08:14 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
Thanks for the info guys, I'm really not looking forward to this. is there
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
any way to force the window up without replacing the regulator just yet?
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-d1C45hkQqxXd@anon.none.net...
>I just took an '88 apart and had no problem with the wimdo retaining
> nut - the ones on both the old door and the new one were something
> like 19mm nuts and the part that went thru the glass was FIRMLY bonded
> to the glass on both doors.
>
> I bought 1/4 x 1/2 pan head bolts to replace the rivets and used a 1/4
> inch drill to simply drill the heads off the rivets. The trickiest
> part for me was working the looped tube on the regulator in and out of
> the door. Get one of those cheapy suction cup gizmos to hold the
> glass out of the way and for positioning it while you work. I used
> blue loctite on the bolts just because I don't ever plan to replace
> them again.
>
> I would suggest getting a can of the spray-on white lithium grease.
> There is a rubber/plactic tube on the bottom end of the regulator assy
> that can fill with water and rust the metal flex coil that is used to
> move the window. Just spray copious amounts of the grease into the
> tube to make sure the coil runs in grease - that seems to be the
> failure mode of that particular part judging b what I saw in the
> boneyard.
>
> On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 16:45:35 UTC "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com>
> wrote:
>
>> This is an annoying task.
>>
>> Grind the rivets and replace with bolts. There is enough room between the
>> door shell and door panel within the indentation for the bolt head.
>>
>> The window retaining nut thingy is a joy to work with. I think it might
>> be a
>> T19 torx but I'm not positive. On the backside is a shaped washer that
>> the
>> torx threads into. Here's the joy part... keeping that thing from
>> spinning... oh, did I mention there was blue lock tite on the threads?
>>
>> I created a tool for this task. Purchase a "universal angle grinder
>> wrench".
>> http://tinyurl.com/858az
>> You will need to bend it to fit and grind the moveable arm to allow the
>> pins
>> to come closer together. The pins will engage the holes on either side of
>> the threaded centre hole on the shaped washer and prevent it from
>> spinning.
>>
>> If this sounds confusing, I can probably get a picture for you. Let me
>> know.
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>>
>> "Kyonn Gowans" <kyonn@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:43637bfa$1@news.acsalaska.net...
>> >I need to replace the LF window regulator in my '89 XJ and since im
>> >gonna
>> >have to do the job outside in sub-freezing temps I'm looking for a few
>> >pointers to make the job go as fast as possible. First whats the best
>> >way
>> >to get the rivets out and what should i replace them with? What tools
>> >will
>> >i need, any other tips would be greatly appreciatied. Thanks in advance.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea
10-31-2005, 03:41 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacing a Window Regulator?
He has apparently managed to turn the Cherokee around in the driveway.
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_hedstrom@yahoospam.com> wrote in message
news:Mag9f.132453$lq6.90587@fed1read01...
> Hey Brian, how are you doing these days?
> Kevin in San Diego
> KH
>
>
> "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> news:GOCdnT-lgqmsOv7eRVn-tw@rogers.com...
>> This is an annoying task.
>
>
--
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_hedstrom@yahoospam.com> wrote in message
news:Mag9f.132453$lq6.90587@fed1read01...
> Hey Brian, how are you doing these days?
> Kevin in San Diego
> KH
>
>
> "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> news:GOCdnT-lgqmsOv7eRVn-tw@rogers.com...
>> This is an annoying task.
>
>