Replacement Fog Lights
05-31-2007, 03:58 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacement Fog Lights
On May 30, 11:20 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
> "SecreAgentRege" <reges.c...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1180578863.639624.92110@q66g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
>
>
> > On May 28, 11:13 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> I hate to say it, but this is one of those things that if you gotta ask
> >> ...
>
> >> Is it DLR only or DRL only?
>
> >> DRL = Daytime Running Lamps, and has nothing to do with the Fog Lamps.
>
> >> "Coasty" <uscg_ret@ no spam comcast.net> wrote in
> >> messagenews:9bOdnUOZ9NDUzMbbnZ2dnUVZ_vOlnZ2d@comca st.com...
>
> >> > Go here 91 bucks eachhttp://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> >> > Coasty
>
> >> > "SecretAgentRege" <secretagentr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >news:1180374956.597783.160760@p77g2000hsh.googleg roups.com...
> >> >>A while back my stock fog lights got busted on my '99 Cherokee Sport
> >> >> right before inspection. When it went in, they told me it would be
> >> >> $400 to replace the lights, and when I told them no, they told me they
> >> >> had to take them off for the inspection since they were broken. I have
> >> >> recently found out that I can purchase the lights for like $50 a pop
> >> >> from Replacement, and have done so. However, when I hooked them up,
> >> >> they aren't working... so I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> >> >> there are two fuses there listed as "Fog Lamps" and "Fog (DLR Only)";
> >> >> the latter is missing. Is this all I need to hook my fog lights back
> >> >> up? Can I just get this at Pep Boys or is it really "Dealer Only"...
> >> >> Seems rediculous to charge $400 for $100 worth of parts and 10 minutes
> >> >> worth of work if it's that simple...
>
> >> >> Looking forward to your help.. Thanks.
>
> > Jeff, I'm asking because I want to learn something I do not know; you
> > can't tell me you never had to ask for advice.
> > Anyway, you are correct, it was DRL, which would make sense as to why
> > it is missing (as to why it is labeled "Fog" I know not). I have made
> > headway, however, so I hope you are willing to assist me further. I
> > know a very minuscule amount about electronics and wiring, so I'm
> > sorry if what I type does not make sense.
>
> > Since the relay was in fact correct, I decided to switch the identical
> > A/C and Fog Light relays in the fuse box under the hood to see if it
> > was a bum relay. Nothing changed; A/C still continued to work and Fog
> > Lights did not--so the relay was good. I then thought maybe they
> > disconnected the switch in the dash when they took them out. I took
> > off the center piece and pulled out the switch panel, and it was
> > indeed still connected. I then pulled out a multimeter to check some
> > of connections. I could get a reading from the plug going into the
> > back of the switch, so the switch was getting power; however, the LED
> > light on the switch never lightes up. I then took the multimeter to
> > the front wire connections. With my low beams on and the fog light
> > switch on (though, still no LED lit), I could get a reading on the
> > front wires, which went away upon turning off the low beams or lights
> > or switch. With the multimeter setting on 50V, the needle went to 10
> > (this is what I am not familiar with). It took some fiddling with to
> > get a reading. I thoguht I had it, but pluggint the lights in still
> > rendered nothing.
>
> > Any ideas as to what could be wrong? I doubt I got two bad lights...
>
> Okay.et's recap because I'm lost.
>
> You have fogs.
> They worked once upon a time, but now they don't.
> You replaced the lamps, but they still don't work.
>
> NORMAL OPERATION
> Fog lights ONLY come on with the Low Beams -- having said that, mine come on
> with the Parking Lights, so that "ONLY" may be out of place.
>
> In any case, they never remain on with the High Beams, and they may or may
> not turn off when only the Parking Lights (Running Lights) are left on. In
> my BMW, the ignition must be ON and the lighting system must also be ON for
> the fogs to work, I'm not certain how Jeeps work, but there are Federal
> guidelines that govern factory or dealer installed fog lamps. The Federal
> guidelines state that fog lamps must only be used in conjunction with the
> Low Beams, many states also regulate that fog lamps can not be the only
> lights ON that are not parking lamps/running lamps/corner markers/<whatever
> term you like to use for the rest of the lights that are not head lamps>.
> Some automakers will have the fogs come on with the parking lamps, but I've
> been stopped for not noticing that I failed to have the full compliment of
> lights on the front of my car. But I digress ...
>
> So, when you turn the Low Beams OFF, it seems reasonable to me that the fog
> lamps would lose power. And, when you switch the High Beams ON, the fogs
> should also be expected to turn off.
>
> If you have power to the fogs at any time and they refuse to turn ON, then
> you need to be looking at stuff like a qualified ground. If the ground
> sucks, or isn't connected (or otherwise provided), the lights will not come
> on.
Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
> "SecreAgentRege" <reges.c...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1180578863.639624.92110@q66g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
>
>
> > On May 28, 11:13 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> I hate to say it, but this is one of those things that if you gotta ask
> >> ...
>
> >> Is it DLR only or DRL only?
>
> >> DRL = Daytime Running Lamps, and has nothing to do with the Fog Lamps.
>
> >> "Coasty" <uscg_ret@ no spam comcast.net> wrote in
> >> messagenews:9bOdnUOZ9NDUzMbbnZ2dnUVZ_vOlnZ2d@comca st.com...
>
> >> > Go here 91 bucks eachhttp://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> >> > Coasty
>
> >> > "SecretAgentRege" <secretagentr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >news:1180374956.597783.160760@p77g2000hsh.googleg roups.com...
> >> >>A while back my stock fog lights got busted on my '99 Cherokee Sport
> >> >> right before inspection. When it went in, they told me it would be
> >> >> $400 to replace the lights, and when I told them no, they told me they
> >> >> had to take them off for the inspection since they were broken. I have
> >> >> recently found out that I can purchase the lights for like $50 a pop
> >> >> from Replacement, and have done so. However, when I hooked them up,
> >> >> they aren't working... so I checked the fuse box under the hood and
> >> >> there are two fuses there listed as "Fog Lamps" and "Fog (DLR Only)";
> >> >> the latter is missing. Is this all I need to hook my fog lights back
> >> >> up? Can I just get this at Pep Boys or is it really "Dealer Only"...
> >> >> Seems rediculous to charge $400 for $100 worth of parts and 10 minutes
> >> >> worth of work if it's that simple...
>
> >> >> Looking forward to your help.. Thanks.
>
> > Jeff, I'm asking because I want to learn something I do not know; you
> > can't tell me you never had to ask for advice.
> > Anyway, you are correct, it was DRL, which would make sense as to why
> > it is missing (as to why it is labeled "Fog" I know not). I have made
> > headway, however, so I hope you are willing to assist me further. I
> > know a very minuscule amount about electronics and wiring, so I'm
> > sorry if what I type does not make sense.
>
> > Since the relay was in fact correct, I decided to switch the identical
> > A/C and Fog Light relays in the fuse box under the hood to see if it
> > was a bum relay. Nothing changed; A/C still continued to work and Fog
> > Lights did not--so the relay was good. I then thought maybe they
> > disconnected the switch in the dash when they took them out. I took
> > off the center piece and pulled out the switch panel, and it was
> > indeed still connected. I then pulled out a multimeter to check some
> > of connections. I could get a reading from the plug going into the
> > back of the switch, so the switch was getting power; however, the LED
> > light on the switch never lightes up. I then took the multimeter to
> > the front wire connections. With my low beams on and the fog light
> > switch on (though, still no LED lit), I could get a reading on the
> > front wires, which went away upon turning off the low beams or lights
> > or switch. With the multimeter setting on 50V, the needle went to 10
> > (this is what I am not familiar with). It took some fiddling with to
> > get a reading. I thoguht I had it, but pluggint the lights in still
> > rendered nothing.
>
> > Any ideas as to what could be wrong? I doubt I got two bad lights...
>
> Okay.et's recap because I'm lost.
>
> You have fogs.
> They worked once upon a time, but now they don't.
> You replaced the lamps, but they still don't work.
>
> NORMAL OPERATION
> Fog lights ONLY come on with the Low Beams -- having said that, mine come on
> with the Parking Lights, so that "ONLY" may be out of place.
>
> In any case, they never remain on with the High Beams, and they may or may
> not turn off when only the Parking Lights (Running Lights) are left on. In
> my BMW, the ignition must be ON and the lighting system must also be ON for
> the fogs to work, I'm not certain how Jeeps work, but there are Federal
> guidelines that govern factory or dealer installed fog lamps. The Federal
> guidelines state that fog lamps must only be used in conjunction with the
> Low Beams, many states also regulate that fog lamps can not be the only
> lights ON that are not parking lamps/running lamps/corner markers/<whatever
> term you like to use for the rest of the lights that are not head lamps>.
> Some automakers will have the fogs come on with the parking lamps, but I've
> been stopped for not noticing that I failed to have the full compliment of
> lights on the front of my car. But I digress ...
>
> So, when you turn the Low Beams OFF, it seems reasonable to me that the fog
> lamps would lose power. And, when you switch the High Beams ON, the fogs
> should also be expected to turn off.
>
> If you have power to the fogs at any time and they refuse to turn ON, then
> you need to be looking at stuff like a qualified ground. If the ground
> sucks, or isn't connected (or otherwise provided), the lights will not come
> on.
Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
05-31-2007, 05:03 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacement Fog Lights
On 31 May 2007 12:58:32 -0700, regis.gaughan@gmail.com wrote:
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2007, 05:03 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacement Fog Lights
On 31 May 2007 12:58:32 -0700, regis.gaughan@gmail.com wrote:
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2007, 05:03 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacement Fog Lights
On 31 May 2007 12:58:32 -0700, regis.gaughan@gmail.com wrote:
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
05-31-2007, 05:03 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Replacement Fog Lights
On 31 May 2007 12:58:32 -0700, regis.gaughan@gmail.com wrote:
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
>Sorry, I did not explain my previous post well. Everything you've
>mentioned is true (including my fogs getting power with only the
>parking lights on, but that's besides the point).
>
>When the fogs should be getting power, the line is getting 10V (?)
>according to the multimeter, but when I plug the light in, it is dark.
>I'm sorry and embarrassed, but I am not sure how to test, or what
>exactly to look for, in regards to the ground. The wire where the old
>fogs were installed has a black and a blue wire and a plug. The wire
>from the lamp has a plug with a black and a blue wire. They connect
>together... nothing happens. That's all I'm doing.
You can't depend upon that 10-volt reading unless you have a
calibrated voltmeter. That's a little low if accurate, but I would
doubt it. At least you have a positive voltage at the end of the
wire. Whichever wire provides the 10-volts is the positive wire. The
other one is ground. To determine this, use a ground somewhere on the
car instead of the other wire. The negative terminal on your battery
would be the best source of ground. You might also make a reading
across the terminals on your battery with the engine off to see how
much voltage you are getting there.
Set your voltmeter to read resistance. It may have the little omega
symbol (looks like an upside down vase), or possibly the zig-zag
drawing of a resistor. If you have the meter set correctly, when you
touch the two leads together the meter will read close to zero.
Before you touch them it should read close to full scale.
When you get to that point, touch one of the meter leads to the ground
wire of the car (the one that didn't have 10-volts) and touch the
other lead to a good ground on the car. This could be a bolt on the
frame, the negative terminal of the battery, or even the engine
itself. Scratch around to get a good connection. If the meter reads
back toward zero again you know the ground wire is going to ground.
If it doesn't, you need to resolve the ground wire problem before you
go any farther.
If you had a couple of wire leads with clips (like little battery
charger cables) you could attach the leads to the positive and
negative leads of the car battery, and the other leads to the wires
coming from one of the lamps. That would test the lamp to make sure
it is working correctly.
Trouble-shooting is simply a matter of eliminating all the
possiblities one at a time until you find the culprit.
----
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Simon Juncal
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01-18-2004 08:33 PM
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