Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
02-22-2004, 04:25 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
am missing?
Walt B.
02-22-2004, 04:48 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
02-22-2004, 04:48 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
02-22-2004, 04:48 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
Seriously!
Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
part and they had to torch the sucker off.
Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
ends needed to be torched...
Money well spent, believe me.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Walt Barie wrote:
>
> I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
> original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
> disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
> even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
> a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
> whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
> get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
> am missing?
>
> Walt B.
02-22-2004, 05:28 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Mike has the right idea, take it to a shop with a two hosed wrench!
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
02-22-2004, 05:28 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Mike has the right idea, take it to a shop with a two hosed wrench!
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
02-22-2004, 05:28 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
Mike has the right idea, take it to a shop with a two hosed wrench!
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much). It takes two
people, one to hammer with the proverbial BFH ( I have a 6 pound
one!) and a second person to hold the 15 to 20 pounds of steel in
place. Getting it well up in the air is a big plus. I bought some
6 ton jackstands, not for the capacity but for the stable height
of 24"
Have fun!
Mike Romain wrote:
> Get it up higher in the air and use a bigger hammer....
>
> Seriously!
>
> Or just take a torch and cut the freaking bolt out...
>
> That is one seriously miserable thing to try and get apart!!!
>
> I gave up on them a long time back and just take them to a shop with a
> hoist and a torch. The last one cost me a half hour labor to install my
> part and they had to torch the sucker off.
>
> Same for track bars. It cost me $45.00 labor to put my part in and both
> ends needed to be torched...
>
> Money well spent, believe me.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Walt Barie wrote:
>
>>I decided to try to change my steering damper since I believe it is the
>>original 110K mile damper. The axle side was easy, so I tried to
>>disconnect the drag link side. Well to say the least it is quite stuck
>>even after soaking for a day in PB blaster oil. I tried a pickle fork,
>>a gear puller (cranked on it until I was afraid it was going to break),
>>whacking on it with a 3lb hammer, and heating it and do the same things.
>> At this point I'm thinking that I will have to drill out the bolt to
>>get the damper off. Is there any trick to getting the thing off that I
>>am missing?
>>
>>Walt B.
02-22-2004, 06:10 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
> On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
02-22-2004, 06:10 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
> On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
02-22-2004, 06:10 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Removing Steering Damper from Drag link
> On the other hand, if you think you want to continue bashing on
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> it yourself try putting a LARGE hunk of steel in behind the tie
> rod. The object is to get enough mass so that when you hammer on
> the stablizer pin, the tie rod does not move (much).
I have better results with tapered pins by putting my 2nd largest hammer on
the small end of the pin and using the biggest to whack the eye that it fits
in, 90 degrees to the pin. The small deformation pops it out, and doesnt
damage the joint or rubbers.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
