Odd-Inge Larsen

A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the actuator
assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the bolt end
because it will not pass the actuator assembly.

My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But I
cant see any bolts holding that on.

Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
crossed).

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
> Well, I have checked further.
>
> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
> plate in engine compartment.
> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to be
> removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8 of
> a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a normal
> open ended (box?) spanner.
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
>> everything.
>>
>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>>>
>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>>>
>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>>>
>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>> >
>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
>>> > with
>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>> >
>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>> >
>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
>>> > they got
>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>> >
>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the
>>> > two
>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and
>>> > to
>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
>>> > can
>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>> >
>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
>>> >
>>> > regards
>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
>>> > Norway
>>
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>
>

Odd-Inge Larsen

It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
disassemble it on a workbench.

Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
>A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
>because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
>actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
>bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
>
> My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> I cant see any bolts holding that on.
>
> Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> crossed).
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
>> Well, I have checked further.
>>
>> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
>> plate in engine compartment.
>> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
>> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
>> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
>> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
>> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
>> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
>> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
>> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
>> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
>> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
>> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
>> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
>> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
>> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
>> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
>> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>>
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
>>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
>>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
>>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
>>> everything.
>>>
>>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
>>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
>>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>>>>
>>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>>>>
>>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
>>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
>>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>>>>
>>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
>>>> > with
>>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>>> >
>>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>>> >
>>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
>>>> > they got
>>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>>> >
>>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
>>>> > the two
>>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
>>>> > and to
>>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
>>>> > can
>>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>>> >
>>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
>>>> >
>>>> > regards
>>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
>>>> > Norway
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>
>>
>
>

Odd-Inge Larsen

It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
disassemble it on a workbench.

Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
>A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
>because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
>actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
>bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
>
> My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> I cant see any bolts holding that on.
>
> Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> crossed).
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
>> Well, I have checked further.
>>
>> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
>> plate in engine compartment.
>> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
>> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
>> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
>> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
>> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
>> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
>> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
>> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
>> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
>> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
>> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
>> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
>> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
>> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
>> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
>> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>>
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
>>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
>>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
>>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
>>> everything.
>>>
>>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
>>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
>>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>>>>
>>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>>>>
>>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
>>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
>>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>>>>
>>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
>>>> > with
>>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>>> >
>>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>>> >
>>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
>>>> > they got
>>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>>> >
>>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
>>>> > the two
>>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
>>>> > and to
>>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
>>>> > can
>>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>>> >
>>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
>>>> >
>>>> > regards
>>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
>>>> > Norway
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>
>>
>
>

Odd-Inge Larsen

It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
disassemble it on a workbench.

Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
>A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
>because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
>actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
>bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
>
> My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> I cant see any bolts holding that on.
>
> Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> crossed).
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
>> Well, I have checked further.
>>
>> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
>> plate in engine compartment.
>> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
>> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
>> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
>> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
>> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
>> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
>> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
>> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
>> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
>> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
>> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
>> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
>> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
>> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
>> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
>> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>>
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
>>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
>>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
>>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
>>> everything.
>>>
>>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
>>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
>>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>>>>
>>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>>>>
>>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
>>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
>>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>>>>
>>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
>>>> > with
>>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>>> >
>>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>>> >
>>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
>>>> > they got
>>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>>> >
>>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
>>>> > the two
>>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
>>>> > and to
>>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
>>>> > can
>>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>>> >
>>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
>>>> >
>>>> > regards
>>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
>>>> > Norway
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>
>>
>
>

Odd-Inge Larsen

It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
disassemble it on a workbench.

Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
>A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
>because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
>actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
>bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
>
> My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> I cant see any bolts holding that on.
>
> Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> crossed).
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
>> Well, I have checked further.
>>
>> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
>> plate in engine compartment.
>> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
>> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
>> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
>> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
>> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
>> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
>> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
>> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
>> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
>> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
>> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
>> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
>> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
>> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
>> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
>> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>>
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
>>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
>>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
>>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
>>> everything.
>>>
>>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
>>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
>>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>>>>
>>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>>>>
>>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
>>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
>>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>>>>
>>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
>>>> > with
>>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>>> >
>>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>>> >
>>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
>>>> > they got
>>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>>> >
>>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
>>>> > the two
>>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
>>>> > and to
>>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
>>>> > can
>>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>>> >
>>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
>>>> >
>>>> > regards
>>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
>>>> > Norway
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>
>>
>
>

Mike Romain

The best description I could find in my 91 pdf says you have to remove
the combination or proportioning valve 'before' you can remove the MC.

Mike

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
> could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
> MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
> is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
> doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
> MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
> disassemble it on a workbench.
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
> >because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
> >actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
> >bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
> >
> > My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> > I cant see any bolts holding that on.
> >
> > Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> > procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> > crossed).
> >
> > regards
> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >
> >
> > "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> > news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >> Well, I have checked further.
> >>
> >> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
> >> plate in engine compartment.
> >> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
> >> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
> >> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
> >> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
> >> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
> >> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
> >> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
> >> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
> >> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
> >> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
> >> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
> >> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
> >> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
> >> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
> >> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
> >> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
> >>
> >> regards
> >> Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
> >>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
> >>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
> >>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
> >>> everything.
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> >>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> >>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
> >>>>
> >>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
> >>>>
> >>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> >>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> >>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
> >>>>
> >>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>
> >>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
> >>>> > with
> >>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
> >>>> > they got
> >>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
> >>>> >
> >>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
> >>>> > the two
> >>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
> >>>> > and to
> >>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
> >>>> > can
> >>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
> >>>> >
> >>>> > regards
> >>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>>> > Norway
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Will Honea
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

The best description I could find in my 91 pdf says you have to remove
the combination or proportioning valve 'before' you can remove the MC.

Mike

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
> could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
> MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
> is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
> doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
> MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
> disassemble it on a workbench.
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
> >because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
> >actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
> >bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
> >
> > My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> > I cant see any bolts holding that on.
> >
> > Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> > procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> > crossed).
> >
> > regards
> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >
> >
> > "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> > news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >> Well, I have checked further.
> >>
> >> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
> >> plate in engine compartment.
> >> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
> >> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
> >> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
> >> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
> >> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
> >> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
> >> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
> >> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
> >> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
> >> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
> >> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
> >> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
> >> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
> >> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
> >> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
> >> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
> >>
> >> regards
> >> Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
> >>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
> >>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
> >>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
> >>> everything.
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> >>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> >>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
> >>>>
> >>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
> >>>>
> >>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> >>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> >>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
> >>>>
> >>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>
> >>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
> >>>> > with
> >>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
> >>>> > they got
> >>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
> >>>> >
> >>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
> >>>> > the two
> >>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
> >>>> > and to
> >>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
> >>>> > can
> >>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
> >>>> >
> >>>> > regards
> >>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>>> > Norway
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Will Honea
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

The best description I could find in my 91 pdf says you have to remove
the combination or proportioning valve 'before' you can remove the MC.

Mike

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
> could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
> MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
> is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
> doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
> MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
> disassemble it on a workbench.
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
> >because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
> >actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
> >bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
> >
> > My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> > I cant see any bolts holding that on.
> >
> > Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> > procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> > crossed).
> >
> > regards
> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >
> >
> > "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> > news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >> Well, I have checked further.
> >>
> >> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
> >> plate in engine compartment.
> >> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
> >> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
> >> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
> >> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
> >> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
> >> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
> >> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
> >> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
> >> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
> >> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
> >> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
> >> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
> >> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
> >> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
> >> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
> >> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
> >>
> >> regards
> >> Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
> >>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
> >>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
> >>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
> >>> everything.
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> >>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> >>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
> >>>>
> >>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
> >>>>
> >>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> >>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> >>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
> >>>>
> >>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>
> >>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
> >>>> > with
> >>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
> >>>> > they got
> >>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
> >>>> >
> >>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
> >>>> > the two
> >>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
> >>>> > and to
> >>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
> >>>> > can
> >>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
> >>>> >
> >>>> > regards
> >>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>>> > Norway
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Will Honea
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Mike Romain

The best description I could find in my 91 pdf says you have to remove
the combination or proportioning valve 'before' you can remove the MC.

Mike

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> It seems that Mike's solution, removing the four nuts inside under the dash
> could be the only way forward. Assuming that the actuator assembly and the
> MC is fastened to the golden plate inside engine compartment and this plate
> is hold in place by the before mentioned 4 bolts. There is no obvious way of
> doing this as far as I can see other than removing the whole lump og
> MC+Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, accumulator and so on so one could
> disassemble it on a workbench.
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen
>
> "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> news:ebg40v$mf2$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >A new update. On closer inspection my f) solution can not be used. This is
> >because the nut itself is to thick to pass between the bolt and the
> >actuator assembly. And even worse the MC itself cant be threaded of the
> >bolt end because it will not pass the actuator assembly.
> >
> > My guess then is that step 1 must be to loosen the actuator assembly. But
> > I cant see any bolts holding that on.
> >
> > Much appreciated if anybody with a Jeep service book could look up this
> > procedure for a Jeep Cherokee 1990 with Bendix 9 ABS brakes (fingers
> > crossed).
> >
> > regards
> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >
> >
> > "Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddingelarsen@dcpost.no> wrote in message
> > news:ebg2ha$m8j$1@troll.powertech.no...
> >> Well, I have checked further.
> >>
> >> a) the Master Cylinder is fastened with two bolts to a golden colored
> >> plate in engine compartment.
> >> b) Plate is fastened to torpedo-wall by maybe 4 bolts with nuts inside
> >> under dash. Theese bolts also holds the pedal assembly under the dash.
> >> c) Dont see it as reasonable that whole plate, pedal etc should have to
> >> be removed. And according to manual it should not be nessecary.
> >> d) The two nuts holding the MC is plenty reachable. One of the nuts is OK
> >> to unfasten. No problem. But an open ended spanner can not fit on nut
> >> closest to fender because it is to bulky in the end bit. It buts against
> >> MC body on one side and actuator assembly on other side.
> >> e) A ring spanner will not fit because the gap between the bolt sticking
> >> out of the nut and the actuator assembly is to small.
> >> f) A possible solution could be to destroy a ring spanner, making it sort
> >> of open ended. The type you normaly should use on brake lines. It could
> >> fit and if it still is strong enough to loosen the nut it should give me
> >> room for unfastening the nut, but I probably cant turn it more than 1/8
> >> of a turn with each take... The ring spanner is much slimmer than a
> >> normal open ended (box?) spanner.
> >>
> >> regards
> >> Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-HDC0CYMRBrpN@anon.none.net...
> >>> Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
> >>> long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
> >>> way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
> >>> everything.
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> >>>> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> >>>> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
> >>>>
> >>>> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
> >>>>
> >>>> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> >>>> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> >>>> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
> >>>>
> >>>> Just a couple ideas for you.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>
> >>>> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990
> >>>> > with
> >>>> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how
> >>>> > they got
> >>>> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
> >>>> >
> >>>> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on
> >>>> > the two
> >>>> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped
> >>>> > and to
> >>>> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner
> >>>> > can
> >>>> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Any input appreciated :-)
> >>>> >
> >>>> > regards
> >>>> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> >>>> > Norway
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Will Honea
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Odd-Inge Larsen

Just for info. Got it changed. Had two loosen the four nuts under the dash,
the three brakelines (FL, FR, R), the elecric connectors and the punmp and
pump return line. Also the bolt that connects the brake pedal to the MC rod.
Removed the water tank for the wiper washer system for better access.

When all this was removed the whole assembly could slide out (bearly) and be
worked on on the workbench. Then one had to loosen and push away the
actuator assemblu to get the MC loose. A good 8 hour work in total but much
of this scratching my head :-)

Odd-Inge Larsen


"Odd-Inge Larsen" <oddinge@invenia.no> wrote in message
news:ebf581$gnq$1@troll.powertech.no...
>I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
>Bendix 9 ABS system.
>
> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>
> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they
> got at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>
> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>
> Any input appreciated :-)
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
> Norway
>