I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
Bendix 9 ABS system.

I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.

But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?

As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.

Any input appreciated :-)

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen
Norway

 

Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
top which would be a PITA but is feasible.

What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?

If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?

Just a couple ideas for you.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>
> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>
> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>
> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>
> Any input appreciated :-)
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
> Norway

 

Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
top which would be a PITA but is feasible.

What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?

If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?

Just a couple ideas for you.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>
> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>
> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>
> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>
> Any input appreciated :-)
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
> Norway

 

Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
top which would be a PITA but is feasible.

What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?

If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?

Just a couple ideas for you.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>
> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>
> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>
> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>
> Any input appreciated :-)
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
> Norway

 

Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
top which would be a PITA but is feasible.

What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?

If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?

Just a couple ideas for you.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>
> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>
> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>
> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>
> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>
> Any input appreciated :-)
>
> regards
> Odd-Inge Larsen
> Norway

 

Thanks Mike, but the problem is that this car has the Bendix 9 ABS system.
There is no booster. Where the booster normaly sits the actuators for the
ABS system sits on my car.

On a car with regular brakes I can see i pictures that sockets or wrenches
can be used. But here there simply is no space. I can reach the nut fine ant
have tried both an open and a closed wrench. Also tried a socket. But to no
avail. No room between the nut and body of actuator assembly.

Have in mind to loosen the bolts from the inside under the dash. I think
that the bolt possibly have a nut also on the inside. Can feel something on
both sides of the brake pedal that I think is the same two bolts that holds
the MC and it feels like there is nuts on that side to. Cant say I look
forward to the yoga sessin reaching then.... :-)

But I am sure there is a procedure for this job. But my Alldata CD and my
Haynes does not cover that in detail.

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44DB62F3.2C7743C3@sympatico.ca...
> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>
> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>
> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>
> Just a couple ideas for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>
>> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
>> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>
>> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>
>> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they
>> got
>> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>
>> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the
>> two
>> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
>> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
>> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>
>> Any input appreciated :-)
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>> Norway

 

Thanks Mike, but the problem is that this car has the Bendix 9 ABS system.
There is no booster. Where the booster normaly sits the actuators for the
ABS system sits on my car.

On a car with regular brakes I can see i pictures that sockets or wrenches
can be used. But here there simply is no space. I can reach the nut fine ant
have tried both an open and a closed wrench. Also tried a socket. But to no
avail. No room between the nut and body of actuator assembly.

Have in mind to loosen the bolts from the inside under the dash. I think
that the bolt possibly have a nut also on the inside. Can feel something on
both sides of the brake pedal that I think is the same two bolts that holds
the MC and it feels like there is nuts on that side to. Cant say I look
forward to the yoga sessin reaching then.... :-)

But I am sure there is a procedure for this job. But my Alldata CD and my
Haynes does not cover that in detail.

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44DB62F3.2C7743C3@sympatico.ca...
> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>
> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>
> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>
> Just a couple ideas for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>
>> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
>> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>
>> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>
>> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they
>> got
>> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>
>> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the
>> two
>> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
>> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
>> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>
>> Any input appreciated :-)
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>> Norway

 

Thanks Mike, but the problem is that this car has the Bendix 9 ABS system.
There is no booster. Where the booster normaly sits the actuators for the
ABS system sits on my car.

On a car with regular brakes I can see i pictures that sockets or wrenches
can be used. But here there simply is no space. I can reach the nut fine ant
have tried both an open and a closed wrench. Also tried a socket. But to no
avail. No room between the nut and body of actuator assembly.

Have in mind to loosen the bolts from the inside under the dash. I think
that the bolt possibly have a nut also on the inside. Can feel something on
both sides of the brake pedal that I think is the same two bolts that holds
the MC and it feels like there is nuts on that side to. Cant say I look
forward to the yoga sessin reaching then.... :-)

But I am sure there is a procedure for this job. But my Alldata CD and my
Haynes does not cover that in detail.

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44DB62F3.2C7743C3@sympatico.ca...
> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>
> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>
> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>
> Just a couple ideas for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>
>> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
>> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>
>> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>
>> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they
>> got
>> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>
>> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the
>> two
>> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
>> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
>> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>
>> Any input appreciated :-)
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>> Norway

 

Thanks Mike, but the problem is that this car has the Bendix 9 ABS system.
There is no booster. Where the booster normaly sits the actuators for the
ABS system sits on my car.

On a car with regular brakes I can see i pictures that sockets or wrenches
can be used. But here there simply is no space. I can reach the nut fine ant
have tried both an open and a closed wrench. Also tried a socket. But to no
avail. No room between the nut and body of actuator assembly.

Have in mind to loosen the bolts from the inside under the dash. I think
that the bolt possibly have a nut also on the inside. Can feel something on
both sides of the brake pedal that I think is the same two bolts that holds
the MC and it feels like there is nuts on that side to. Cant say I look
forward to the yoga sessin reaching then.... :-)

But I am sure there is a procedure for this job. But my Alldata CD and my
Haynes does not cover that in detail.

regards
Odd-Inge Larsen


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44DB62F3.2C7743C3@sympatico.ca...
> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>
> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>
> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>
> Just a couple ideas for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
>>
>> I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
>> Bendix 9 ABS system.
>>
>> I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
>>
>> But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they
>> got
>> at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
>>
>> As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the
>> two
>> nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
>> close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
>> even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
>>
>> Any input appreciated :-)
>>
>> regards
>> Odd-Inge Larsen
>> Norway

 

Best I can remember, Mike is correct and the key is the extension, a
long one, for the bottom nut. There are some things that are in the
way a bit, but you can thread the extension through and get at
everything.

On Thu, 10 Aug 2006 16:46:43 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Hmm.... Well both of my XJ's are clear to get at with a socket wrench
> and an extension from the bottom side or with a box end wrench from the
> top which would be a PITA but is feasible.
>
> What about a socket, then a universal joint, then an extension?
>
> If worse came to worse, you could maybe go inside and unbolt the power
> booster from the firewall, unhook the brake rod from the pedal then put
> the whole works on the bench to remove the MC from the power booster?
>
> Just a couple ideas for you.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Odd-Inge Larsen wrote:
> >
> > I need to change the Master Brake Cylinder on my Jeep Cherokee 1990 with
> > Bendix 9 ABS system.
> >
> > I have got a new MC and know how to do this, bleed etc.
> >
> > But I would like to hear from somebody who has done this as to how they got
> > at the two bolts holding the MC to the torpedo wall?
> >
> > As far as I can see there is no way in hell I can get a spanner on the two
> > nuts holding the MC inside engine compartment. They are to cramped and to
> > close to the underlying actuator assembly. No sort of pipe or spanner can
> > even fit on to the nuts as far as I can see.
> >
> > Any input appreciated :-)
> >
> > regards
> > Odd-Inge Larsen
> > Norway


--
Will Honea