I twist the heads of 'em with my bare fingers.

On Thu, 8 Mar 2007 16:34:36 -0800, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III"
<----------@***.net> wrote:

> Yup, I am not put any power on it either.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>news:45f09f09$0$31564$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com...
>> That sounds about the same to me.
>>
>> 'I' might be able to go way too tight your way, which I know from
>> experience, so I stick to holding it with the first two fingers and
>> thumb and using the little finger for power on pans and valve covers.
>>
>> I can 'easily' crack the plastic valve covers with just the little
>> finger pushing and regularly gut worm gear clamps when I use a nut
>> driver on them. I am the kind of guy that snaps sider cutter handles
>> off when using them. I have snapped two in the last couple months, one
>> was a cheapie, one wasn't...
>>
>> Mike

 

Torquing down an old leaky gasket can make the leak worse. Been there,
done that. Gaskets are cheap.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I
> don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak.
>
> I use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and my small finger on the end of the
> handle applying the pressure on the old ones. I stop if I see the
> slightest deformation of the metal happening. I have large and strong
> hands and figure my last finger can put the 3-5 or so ft lb of torque on
> them.
>
> When I sneak the open end of a wrench onto a bolt head vertically in a
> tight space, I use mini vise grips clamped onto the wrench shaft close
> to the box end to turn it. This is tons of power for those bolts.
>
> Mike
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
>
>> What torque should I tighten things to?
>>
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:47221$45f035ff$422afc51$30912@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of
>>> course, a torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:KDVHh.45605$as2.18634@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>
>>>> Not to inflate your ego, but you are so smart. I crawled under my
>>>> jeep, and poked around the valve cover, and those areas were visibly
>>>> wet with oil. Now I just have to figure out how to get to all of the
>>>> bolts with a wrench.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>> news:45eed597$0$3923$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>
>>>>> Seals and gaskets are relatively easy to replace. I'll bet if you
>>>>> go and just try with your fingers you will find a bunch of valve
>>>>> cover and oil pan bolts finger loose. Sometimes all it needs is a
>>>>> little tighten here and there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>> YouGoFirst wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a
>>>>>> simple fix?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:deb07$45eecebd$422afc51$27868@FUSE.NET...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Take a peak down the throttle body and see if there is a layer of
>>>>>>> oil down there. You might just need a seal replacement.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> (Or are you burning that much?)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:Q1AHh.42564$as2.7039@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and
>>>>>>>> burn/drip about 1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly
>>>>>>>> 135000 miles on it, and I was wondering what is the best thing
>>>>>>>> to do for the engine. Should I have the engine rebuilt, or if I
>>>>>>>> am sufficiently annoyed with the oil situation, should I begin
>>>>>>>> looking for a new jeep?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you think that rebuilding is best, can you tell me about what
>>>>>>>> it costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not
>>>>>>>> handy to take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give.
>>>>>>>>
>>>
>>
>>

 

Torquing down an old leaky gasket can make the leak worse. Been there,
done that. Gaskets are cheap.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I
> don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak.
>
> I use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and my small finger on the end of the
> handle applying the pressure on the old ones. I stop if I see the
> slightest deformation of the metal happening. I have large and strong
> hands and figure my last finger can put the 3-5 or so ft lb of torque on
> them.
>
> When I sneak the open end of a wrench onto a bolt head vertically in a
> tight space, I use mini vise grips clamped onto the wrench shaft close
> to the box end to turn it. This is tons of power for those bolts.
>
> Mike
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
>
>> What torque should I tighten things to?
>>
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:47221$45f035ff$422afc51$30912@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of
>>> course, a torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:KDVHh.45605$as2.18634@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>
>>>> Not to inflate your ego, but you are so smart. I crawled under my
>>>> jeep, and poked around the valve cover, and those areas were visibly
>>>> wet with oil. Now I just have to figure out how to get to all of the
>>>> bolts with a wrench.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>> news:45eed597$0$3923$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>
>>>>> Seals and gaskets are relatively easy to replace. I'll bet if you
>>>>> go and just try with your fingers you will find a bunch of valve
>>>>> cover and oil pan bolts finger loose. Sometimes all it needs is a
>>>>> little tighten here and there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>> YouGoFirst wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a
>>>>>> simple fix?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:deb07$45eecebd$422afc51$27868@FUSE.NET...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Take a peak down the throttle body and see if there is a layer of
>>>>>>> oil down there. You might just need a seal replacement.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> (Or are you burning that much?)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:Q1AHh.42564$as2.7039@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and
>>>>>>>> burn/drip about 1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly
>>>>>>>> 135000 miles on it, and I was wondering what is the best thing
>>>>>>>> to do for the engine. Should I have the engine rebuilt, or if I
>>>>>>>> am sufficiently annoyed with the oil situation, should I begin
>>>>>>>> looking for a new jeep?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you think that rebuilding is best, can you tell me about what
>>>>>>>> it costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not
>>>>>>>> handy to take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give.
>>>>>>>>
>>>
>>
>>

 

Torquing down an old leaky gasket can make the leak worse. Been there,
done that. Gaskets are cheap.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I
> don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak.
>
> I use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and my small finger on the end of the
> handle applying the pressure on the old ones. I stop if I see the
> slightest deformation of the metal happening. I have large and strong
> hands and figure my last finger can put the 3-5 or so ft lb of torque on
> them.
>
> When I sneak the open end of a wrench onto a bolt head vertically in a
> tight space, I use mini vise grips clamped onto the wrench shaft close
> to the box end to turn it. This is tons of power for those bolts.
>
> Mike
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
>
>> What torque should I tighten things to?
>>
>>
>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>> news:47221$45f035ff$422afc51$30912@FUSE.NET...
>>
>>> A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of
>>> course, a torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:KDVHh.45605$as2.18634@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>
>>>> Not to inflate your ego, but you are so smart. I crawled under my
>>>> jeep, and poked around the valve cover, and those areas were visibly
>>>> wet with oil. Now I just have to figure out how to get to all of the
>>>> bolts with a wrench.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>> news:45eed597$0$3923$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>
>>>>> Seals and gaskets are relatively easy to replace. I'll bet if you
>>>>> go and just try with your fingers you will find a bunch of valve
>>>>> cover and oil pan bolts finger loose. Sometimes all it needs is a
>>>>> little tighten here and there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>> YouGoFirst wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a
>>>>>> simple fix?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:deb07$45eecebd$422afc51$27868@FUSE.NET...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Take a peak down the throttle body and see if there is a layer of
>>>>>>> oil down there. You might just need a seal replacement.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> (Or are you burning that much?)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:Q1AHh.42564$as2.7039@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and
>>>>>>>> burn/drip about 1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly
>>>>>>>> 135000 miles on it, and I was wondering what is the best thing
>>>>>>>> to do for the engine. Should I have the engine rebuilt, or if I
>>>>>>>> am sufficiently annoyed with the oil situation, should I begin
>>>>>>>> looking for a new jeep?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you think that rebuilding is best, can you tell me about what
>>>>>>>> it costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not
>>>>>>>> handy to take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give.
>>>>>>>>
>>>
>>
>>

 

OK... If you really are intending to KEEP the Jeep, now is the time
to "do it right" and get it over with. If it has not been done
already, it is time to replace the "timing chain and gears" on that
318. Seeing as how you have numerous gaskets that are 15 years old
and fatigued, it will be MUCH better to just PULL the engine and do it
all while on an engine stand.

Replace the Timing Chain AND Gears
New Timing Cover gaskets and Front Crank Seal
New Water Pump
New Oil Pan Gasket
New Rear Main Crank Seal
New Valve Cover Gaskets

I would also replace all of the "freeze plugs" or core plugs while I
had it out of the Jeep. There are some on the rear of the engine
that can not be reached without pulling the transmission or engine.
(Ask me how I know that!)

That should set your 318 up to be ready for another 100,000 miles at
least.


Good Luck, Bruce

 

OK... If you really are intending to KEEP the Jeep, now is the time
to "do it right" and get it over with. If it has not been done
already, it is time to replace the "timing chain and gears" on that
318. Seeing as how you have numerous gaskets that are 15 years old
and fatigued, it will be MUCH better to just PULL the engine and do it
all while on an engine stand.

Replace the Timing Chain AND Gears
New Timing Cover gaskets and Front Crank Seal
New Water Pump
New Oil Pan Gasket
New Rear Main Crank Seal
New Valve Cover Gaskets

I would also replace all of the "freeze plugs" or core plugs while I
had it out of the Jeep. There are some on the rear of the engine
that can not be reached without pulling the transmission or engine.
(Ask me how I know that!)

That should set your 318 up to be ready for another 100,000 miles at
least.


Good Luck, Bruce

 

OK... If you really are intending to KEEP the Jeep, now is the time
to "do it right" and get it over with. If it has not been done
already, it is time to replace the "timing chain and gears" on that
318. Seeing as how you have numerous gaskets that are 15 years old
and fatigued, it will be MUCH better to just PULL the engine and do it
all while on an engine stand.

Replace the Timing Chain AND Gears
New Timing Cover gaskets and Front Crank Seal
New Water Pump
New Oil Pan Gasket
New Rear Main Crank Seal
New Valve Cover Gaskets

I would also replace all of the "freeze plugs" or core plugs while I
had it out of the Jeep. There are some on the rear of the engine
that can not be reached without pulling the transmission or engine.
(Ask me how I know that!)

That should set your 318 up to be ready for another 100,000 miles at
least.


Good Luck, Bruce