Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
05-31-2005, 08:54 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
05-31-2005, 08:54 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
05-31-2005, 08:54 PM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
Ed J. did pass the time by typing:
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how the
>> hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>> http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>> could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
postmaster@ the domain in my sig
And I'll can either throw them in the temp directory
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
or create a seperate one.
--
DougW
Head kook and bottle washer, revbeergoggles.com
05-31-2005, 09:24 PM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
05-31-2005, 09:24 PM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
05-31-2005, 09:24 PM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
05-31-2005, 09:24 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
the difference of the thickness of the hitch. I haven't had a chance to
look at the rear of the jeep again since the install, but will look again
tomorrow after work, if i get off before the sun sets. I might see if I can
mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
will have a straight pull on the bolts. You can e-mail me pics if you would
like, I have no limit on my account. just remember to remove the spam.
also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Patrick
ΤΏΤ
"Ed J." <ej_000@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gfvp91d1hrrv5nu2tgsrhcgbr6spek81uj@4ax.com...
> "Patrick ΤΏΤ" <patrick.nospam@cityofvarnell.com> wrote:
>
>>I don't think that one will work. Here is are a couple pictures of how
>>the
>>hitch is mounted on the drivers side.
>>http://www.cityofvarnell.com/patrick/trailer%20hitch/ . Any idea how I
>>could reuse the factory tow hook? Any more sugestions?
>
> Patrick - if you look at Stu's site you'll see that the lower/left
> bolt on your hitch is the "existing" hole in the frame.
> To do Stu's install, you need to drill the second hole, which will be
> to the left and above the existing hole.
> I have both a Draw-tite hitch and the hook as per Stu's setup. If
> somebody wants to host the picture, I'll email a pic or two of my
> setup.
>
> I also have the Warn receiver shackle bracket. I don't see why that
> would be any weaker than the regular hook - the hitch is attached with
> 4 bolts to both frame rails. It would seem to distribute the force
> more evenly. Frankly, I was always a bit concerned about the angle of
> the hook, in that the pull is applying a rotaional force in respect to
> the bolts, rather than pulling in-line with them.
>
> Make sure you use Grade 5 bolts too - not grade 8.
>
> -Ed
05-31-2005, 10:28 PM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
"Patrick ΤΏΤ" wrote:
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed
05-31-2005, 10:28 PM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
"Patrick ΤΏΤ" wrote:
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed
05-31-2005, 10:28 PM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear tow hook and trailer hitch
"Patrick ΤΏΤ" wrote:
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed
>The hitch is held on by 6 bolts. two are underneath where the bumper is
>connected to the frame. My only concern is having to use a spacer to makeup
>the difference of the thickness of the hitch.
I just used 2 washers as a spacer.
> I might see if I can mount it to the top of the frame just like it was on the bottom, that way it
>will have a straight pull on the bolts.
Don't think there's enough room on top of the frame rail.
>also why use grade 5 bolts instead of 8?
Grade 5's are better in shear applications. They'll tend to "give" a
bit before they fail, where 8's will just let go without warning.
I sent Doug some pics. the hook on there was $10 at Advance Auto. It's
the same as the ones I use on the front. It comes with gr. 5 bolts
hope that helps,
-Ed