Rear shocks
11-17-2005, 06:22 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:22 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:22 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
experience...
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to accept a
> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated with
> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> > hammer taps.
> >
> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > DanFXR wrote:
> >>
> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >>
> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> >> rear shocks.
> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the
> >> rear
> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> small.
> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.co...ock_mounts.htm
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.co...ock_mounts.htm
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.co...ock_mounts.htm
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
Helicoil is stronger than aluminum, which about the only place it's
used to repair motorcycle cases. It definitely wouldn't hold a shock
absorber.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
DanFXR wrote:
>
> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>
> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing my
> rear shocks.
> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru the rear
> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a homepage)
> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck with a
> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to small.
> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
Mike, The problem is here that he has already drilled out the old bolt and
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
Mike, The problem is here that he has already drilled out the old bolt and
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 06:48 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
Mike, The problem is here that he has already drilled out the old bolt and
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
>I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
>
> The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
>
> An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> experience...
>
> Mike
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
>> accept a
>> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
>> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
>> with
>> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
>> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
>> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
>> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
>> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
>> > hammer taps.
>> >
>> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > DanFXR wrote:
>> >>
>> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
>> >>
>> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
>> >> my
>> >> rear shocks.
>> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
>> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
>> >> the
>> >> rear
>> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
>> >> homepage)
>> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
>> >> with a
>> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
>> >> small.
>> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
>> >> enought to use ?
11-17-2005, 07:24 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear shocks
Ya ya, read it again eh...
I thought the hole was too small, read that **** backward.
There are high strength helicoils, he might be able to tap for one of
them.
I don't think he can go bigger because the bolt has to fit the shock
sleeve.
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Mike, The problem is here that he has already drilled out the old bolt and
> the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
> holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
> >I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> > and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> > them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> > work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
> >
> > The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> > the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> > 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> > never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> > that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
> >
> > An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> > experience...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Billy Ray wrote:
> >>
> >> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
> >> accept a
> >> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> >> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
> >> with
> >> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> >> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> >> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> >> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> >> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> >> > hammer taps.
> >> >
> >> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >
> >> > DanFXR wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >> >>
> >> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
> >> >> my
> >> >> rear shocks.
> >> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
> >> >> the
> >> >> rear
> >> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
> >> >> homepage)
> >> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
> >> >> with a
> >> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> >> small.
> >> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> >> enought to use ?
I thought the hole was too small, read that **** backward.
There are high strength helicoils, he might be able to tap for one of
them.
I don't think he can go bigger because the bolt has to fit the shock
sleeve.
Mike
Billy Ray wrote:
>
> Mike, The problem is here that he has already drilled out the old bolt and
> the stock 5/16" are already too loose. If he does have any threads left the
> holes will be that much smaller when he gets done.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:437D10B4.F627186B@sympatico.ca...
> >I have run into seized and snapped bolts 'way' to often over the years
> > and have gotten really good at drilling them a bit smaller and peeling
> > them out. I very seldom need a tap.... Well I don't own any for repair
> > work, only a couple for manufacture of new things.
> >
> > The heat that happens and the oil I use while drilling usually breaks
> > the rest of the bolt free, especially if I can make it an exaggerated
> > 1/4 moon shape. It damages one spot in the threads a bit, but I have
> > never had a failure later on any I drilled. I use 'loctite' on ones
> > that I dinged the threads on. It also is a type of antiseize compound.
> >
> > An alternator is always one that must be drilled larger from my
> > experience...
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Billy Ray wrote:
> >>
> >> I think I would feel a lot better about this to enlarge the hole to
> >> accept a
> >> 3/8" or 9 mm bolt and cut a set of new threads. And I would replace the
> >> bolts with stainless steel or make darn sure everything is well coated
> >> with
> >> anti-seize before it is reassembled.
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:437CF6AB.FCD55383@sympatico.ca...
> >> > If I had them that close, I would certainly pick at them first with the
> >> > thought of getting the leftovers out. I usually try to use a bit
> >> > slightly too small and try to just tag one spot of threads. I usually
> >> > then can spin out the remainder with a pick or small screwdriver and
> >> > hammer taps.
> >> >
> >> > I also would for sure try the tap before cutting through the floor....
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >
> >> > DanFXR wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> 2000 Cherokee Sport 4L 95K,
> >> >>
> >> >> I have completed work on my front end and in the process of replacing
> >> >> my
> >> >> rear shocks.
> >> >> Of course the rear upper bolts broke off.
> >> >> This newsgroup had great advice regarding a repair by drilling thru
> >> >> the
> >> >> rear
> >> >> floor and installing nuts and bolts.(there was a nice link to a
> >> >> homepage)
> >> >> Before I try this I would like to know if anyone has had any luck
> >> >> with a
> >> >> tap.I have drilled out the bolts and the stock bolts are now a bit to
> >> >> small.
> >> >> The bit was 5/16ths. Is a Helicoil strong
> >> >> enought to use ?