Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
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Posts: n/a
Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
brake pedal was dropping on him.
Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
it made.....
We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
on.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
brake pedal was dropping on him.
Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
it made.....
We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
on.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
In article <3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
>and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
>months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
You should have checked his work. 4 hours can really Fark up something
which only took you 20 minutes. :) Something was too loose?
>His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
>the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
>it made.....
I recently did rear drum brakes myself. I normally work on my other
vehicles that have disc. Well there is a Honda that does have rear drums
but it doesn't need them yet. Soon.
>We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
>more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
I used a spring kit and an adjuster kit on my YJ brakes. They were
FUBAR'ed by heat. The shoes fell apart when I touched them even though
there was still meat on them. Dry rot or something. I think the adjust
was rusted.
>
>Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
>cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
>on.
The star adjuster all the way in and tension on the cable should make
the drum go on real nice.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
>and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
>months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
You should have checked his work. 4 hours can really Fark up something
which only took you 20 minutes. :) Something was too loose?
>His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
>the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
>it made.....
I recently did rear drum brakes myself. I normally work on my other
vehicles that have disc. Well there is a Honda that does have rear drums
but it doesn't need them yet. Soon.
>We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
>more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
I used a spring kit and an adjuster kit on my YJ brakes. They were
FUBAR'ed by heat. The shoes fell apart when I touched them even though
there was still meat on them. Dry rot or something. I think the adjust
was rusted.
>
>Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
>cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
>on.
The star adjuster all the way in and tension on the cable should make
the drum go on real nice.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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Guest
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Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
In article <3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
>and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
>months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
You should have checked his work. 4 hours can really Fark up something
which only took you 20 minutes. :) Something was too loose?
>His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
>the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
>it made.....
I recently did rear drum brakes myself. I normally work on my other
vehicles that have disc. Well there is a Honda that does have rear drums
but it doesn't need them yet. Soon.
>We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
>more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
I used a spring kit and an adjuster kit on my YJ brakes. They were
FUBAR'ed by heat. The shoes fell apart when I touched them even though
there was still meat on them. Dry rot or something. I think the adjust
was rusted.
>
>Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
>cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
>on.
The star adjuster all the way in and tension on the cable should make
the drum go on real nice.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
>and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
>months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
You should have checked his work. 4 hours can really Fark up something
which only took you 20 minutes. :) Something was too loose?
>His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
>the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
>it made.....
I recently did rear drum brakes myself. I normally work on my other
vehicles that have disc. Well there is a Honda that does have rear drums
but it doesn't need them yet. Soon.
>We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
>more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
I used a spring kit and an adjuster kit on my YJ brakes. They were
FUBAR'ed by heat. The shoes fell apart when I touched them even though
there was still meat on them. Dry rot or something. I think the adjust
was rusted.
>
>Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
>cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
>on.
The star adjuster all the way in and tension on the cable should make
the drum go on real nice.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
--
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Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
routing.
Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
Snow...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
routing.
Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
Snow...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
routing.
Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
Snow...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
routing.
Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
Snow...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
LOL!
I kinda like the Labatts' version, but Molson will do in a pinch. ;-)
Just gotta watch out for the prescription pain meds, they don't mix well
with either of the above...
Mike
Snow wrote:
>
> Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
> I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
> generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
> swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
> routing.
> Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
> amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
> be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
>
> Snow...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
I kinda like the Labatts' version, but Molson will do in a pinch. ;-)
Just gotta watch out for the prescription pain meds, they don't mix well
with either of the above...
Mike
Snow wrote:
>
> Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
> I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
> generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
> swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
> routing.
> Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
> amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
> be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
>
> Snow...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
LOL!
I kinda like the Labatts' version, but Molson will do in a pinch. ;-)
Just gotta watch out for the prescription pain meds, they don't mix well
with either of the above...
Mike
Snow wrote:
>
> Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
> I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
> generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
> swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
> routing.
> Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
> amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
> be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
>
> Snow...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
I kinda like the Labatts' version, but Molson will do in a pinch. ;-)
Just gotta watch out for the prescription pain meds, they don't mix well
with either of the above...
Mike
Snow wrote:
>
> Well seeing how its almost time to install the snow tires on the J**P again,
> I'll take a double look at the passengerside cable/adjuster again.. I
> generally give the brakes front and back an inspection/adjustment when I
> swap wheels, but this year I'll pay closer attention to the cable tension
> routing.
> Thanks Mike, hope you get better soon, until then might I recommend a fair
> amount of Molson's pain killer? Remember just to take any if your going to
> be driving or operating heavy equipment ;)
>
> Snow...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F73B051.28C5C153@sympatico.ca...
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
Mike Romain wrote:
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
Mike Romain wrote:
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
> A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
>
> He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> brake pedal was dropping on him.
>
> Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
>
> When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
>
> His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> it made.....
>
> We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
>
> Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> on.
You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rear brake job 'gotchas'....
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm
"Cal Wheeler" <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message
news:bl606o$lag$1@pita.alt.net...
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
>
>
> You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
>
"Cal Wheeler" <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message
news:bl606o$lag$1@pita.alt.net...
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > A friend of mine that spent 4 hours doing one side of his rear brakes
> > and had me help him on the other side that took me 20 minutes a couple
> > months ago just came over today because of noises and a low pedal.
> >
> > He just had a tranny rebuild and had a clunk that happened so was over
> > last week and I nailed a bad CV joint for him. This was new and his
> > brake pedal was dropping on him.
> >
> > Well, he had put the brake together like the book 'showed' and 'just'
> > like a photo Bill ------ showed a bit ago with the pull cable adjusting
> > arm cocked on the star wheel ready to fire.
> >
> > When I did the other side, I pulled the arm off the star wheel to keep
> > the cable tight while installing the drum with a fully compressed star
> > wheel. The arm comes up into place as you do the basic adjust from the
> > back with a screwdriver through the rubber grommet filled hole.
> >
> > His cable fell of the pivot slider and the adjusting arm fell down on
> > the brake drum, spring loaded and almost cut it in half with the groove
> > it made.....
> >
> > We checked the other side that I did and the star wheel rod already was
> > more than 1/4" threaded out and working perfectly.
> >
> > Watch out for that folks, when you do a drum brake job, make sure the
> > cable is in the track and has pressure on it when you wiggle the drum
> > on.
>
>
> You've got me all paranoid now! ;-) I checked; mine are good.
>