Re-tapping a threaded hole
03-16-2007, 04:17 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re-tapping a threaded hole
I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
thread?
Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
Thanks in advance.
03-16-2007, 08:55 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
03-16-2007, 08:55 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
03-16-2007, 08:55 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
> Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> needing a thread chaser.
> I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> thing in an O too thin frame.
> It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
> "nrs" wrote...
>>
>> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
>> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
>> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
>> thread?
>>
>> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
>> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
>> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
03-16-2007, 09:21 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
03-16-2007, 09:21 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
03-16-2007, 09:21 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
needing a thread chaser.
I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that would
heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a little
penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking thing in an O
too thin frame.
It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and fish it
through some existing hole it the frame.
And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down to
replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1174076247.843224.113880@e1g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
>
> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> thread?
>
> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
03-16-2007, 10:46 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
03-16-2007, 10:46 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
03-16-2007, 10:46 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re-tapping a threaded hole
If this is the threaded hole for the bumper that I am thinking about, the
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
one that you are supposed to mount tow hooks on, then maybe, just maybe you
can access the inside after you get the bumper off.
It doesn't have anything like a real nut, just some threads chased into the
frame rail. I really, really doubt that it would hold a 5/8 coarse thread.
Earle
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:y0HKh.14674$mJ1.12263@newsfe22.lga...
> L.W. (Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Someone with Oxy-Acetylene could blow it out, many times not even
> > needing a thread chaser.
> > I have had success using a half inch drill and a dull bit that
> > would heat and bind enough to screw the stud through. maybe use a
> > little penetrating fluid first. Remember that's just a nut looking
> > thing in an O too thin frame.
> > It's just a nut, knock it though, and hook a wire to a bolt and
> > fish it through some existing hole it the frame.
> > And there a nut that can be placed it the frame and tightened down
> > to replace the stock POS. I can't think of it's name.
>
> nutsert or #$%!!* depeding on if your the parts shop or the mechanic.
>
> > "nrs" wrote...
> >>
> >> I am thinking of drilling out and re-tapping a threaded hole in the
> >> front of my YJ frame. The original thread is 1/2 inch. Will it work
> >> if I drill it out with a 1/2 inch bit and then tap to 5/8 coarse
> >> thread?
> >>
> >> Another option I'm considering is to drill out the threaded holes at
> >> the top and bottom of the frame to 1/2 inch, inserting a crush sleave
> >> and a long 1/2 bolt all the way through.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>