RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
09-22-2007, 09:11 AM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
> First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> tw
>
>
>
> Tracie wrote:
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
be replacing the gearing again?
> First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> tw
>
>
>
> Tracie wrote:
> > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > goal
> > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > bone
> > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > please
> > help! : D
>
> > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > 6 speed manual
> > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > current 3.07s
>
> > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > (like
> > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
be replacing the gearing again?
09-22-2007, 09:25 AM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 9:11 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
09-22-2007, 09:25 AM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 9:11 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
09-22-2007, 09:25 AM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 9:11 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
09-22-2007, 09:25 AM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 9:11 am, Tracie <brain...@upstate.edu> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
> On Sep 22, 9:03 am, twaldron <d...@purplebunions.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > First of all, for your type of driving, I would recommend the 4:11s if
> > you're SURE you won't want 35s when you upgrade. 33s and 4:11s are a
> > nice all around combo which I think you'll be very happy with. Secondly,
> > what I would do, is find some lightly used complete Rubi D44 axles and
> > just simply swap them out when you do your suspension lift.
>
> > tw
>
> > Tracie wrote:
> > > I have posted this once today, but for some reason it did not post.
> > > If anyone finds it, sorry for the duplicate post.
>
> > > Anyhoo, I definitely want to re-gear but I am not sure if the 3.73 or
> > > the 4.11 ratio would be better for me. I currently have 31" BFG All
> > > Terrain T/A KOs, but will definitely upgrade to a 33" tire of some
> > > sort in the future when these wear out. I will never upgrade to
> > > bigger than a 33" tire. As for off-roading, I do some light trail
> > > riding and the occasional hop in the mud puddle when I find one that
> > > looks fun. 80% of my driving is highway at approximately 70 miles
> > > round trip at a speed of anywhere from 60-70 mph. The other 20% is
> > > split between city driving (10%), and off-roading (10%). My main
> > > goal
> > > is to get my Jeep to drive as close as possible to the way it did
> > > bone
> > > stock (being able to use my 6th gear on the freeway) and to prevent
> > > excessive wear and tear on my clutch and engine parts. Someone
> > > please
> > > help! : D
>
> > > '06 TJ (4.0L with I-6)
> > > 6 speed manual
> > > Dana 30 front/35 rear
> > > current 3.07s
>
> > > P.S. Would I also need to upgrade my Dana 30/35 to a bigger one
> > > (like
> > > 44s)? I don't know if this makes any difference as far as which gear
> > > ratio to go with, but where I live (upstate NY), there can be quite a
> > > bit of snow from Dec. - Apr.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
While we're on the topic....
Since I have upgraded from 28s to 31s, can that cause the engine to
lug or ping? I generally keep the RPM's around 2200-2400 in 5th gear
(I have a 6 speed). In the higher gears after the engine is warm and
mainly while going uphill (little or big), I get this noise on the
passenger side that sounds VERY similar to the soft top side window
'pinging' against the metal support bow when the wind blows. I can't
quite distinguish if that's it, or if the engine is pinging because I
am not 100% sure whether it's coming from the front or the back. It's
a high-pitched noise. It is NOT rhythmic or steady, but rather comes
and goes intermittently. This noise does NOT happen at city/town
speeds of 50 mph or lower. I ran a tank of 89 through her, and it
seemed to be drastically reduced after 1/4 of the tank was used and
for the rest of the 3/4 of the tank. I have now refilled again with
the 89 and the noise is back. I have not used 1/4 of the tank yet, so
I don't know if it will be reduced again once I get to that point. I
do have a tendecy to 'stuff' as much gas in the tank as I can get
(even after the automatic shuf-off on the spout kicks on). Would this
be causing the problem too?
09-22-2007, 10:37 AM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
Tracie wrote:
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-22-2007, 10:37 AM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
Tracie wrote:
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-22-2007, 10:37 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
Tracie wrote:
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-22-2007, 10:37 AM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
Tracie wrote:
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> be replacing the gearing again?
>
No.
A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
changed including the brake shoes or pads.
D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
Not sure about the driveshaft.
If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-22-2007, 11:07 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RE-GEARING TO EITHER 3.73 OR 4.11 (repeat -- sorry)
On Sep 22, 10:37 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> > axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> > be replacing the gearing again?
>
> No.
>
> A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
> axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
> changed including the brake shoes or pads.
>
> D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
>
> Not sure about the driveshaft.
>
> If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
I do not have ABS.
TW -- How complicated would it be to just switch out the axles like
you're suggesting? Would this be easier than just upgrading the
gearing? Or does everything that Mike mentioned have to be changed
too even if you just upgrade the gearing from stock to 4.11? Would I
need D44 for the front AND rear? Or do I just change the rear 35s to
44s and leave the 30 in the front?
> Tracie wrote:
> > Just so that I understand, the D44 axles would just be replacing the
> > axle shafts and the differential housings ONLY, correct? It would not
> > be replacing the gearing again?
>
> No.
>
> A Dana 44 is a complete housing that includes the case, the gears, the
> axles, the brake mounting plate, the emergency brake, everything must be
> changed including the brake shoes or pads.
>
> D35 gears don't fit a D44, they are a different size.
>
> Not sure about the driveshaft.
>
> If you have ABS, then things get even more complex.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
I do not have ABS.
TW -- How complicated would it be to just switch out the axles like
you're suggesting? Would this be easier than just upgrading the
gearing? Or does everything that Mike mentioned have to be changed
too even if you just upgrade the gearing from stock to 4.11? Would I
need D44 for the front AND rear? Or do I just change the rear 35s to
44s and leave the 30 in the front?
