DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>> jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> * There's a sensor in the side of the oil pan which appears to have a very
>>> slow leak. Not sure what that sensor is called, but I'd like to change it
>>> next Oil change.
>>
>> That is the oil level sender.
>> Here is a ref
>> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html
>
> BTW: would that be this?
> NIEHOFF OIL SENDING UNIT for a 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4WD
>
> http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...%7ENONE%7C%7EB

Not sure. The price is about right but that's also
the same range for the oil pressure sender.

To be certain I'd call a dealership and ask them to look up the
sensor and give you the part number.

--
DougW

DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>> jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> * There's a sensor in the side of the oil pan which appears to have a very
>>> slow leak. Not sure what that sensor is called, but I'd like to change it
>>> next Oil change.
>>
>> That is the oil level sender.
>> Here is a ref
>> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html
>
> BTW: would that be this?
> NIEHOFF OIL SENDING UNIT for a 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4WD
>
> http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...%7ENONE%7C%7EB

Not sure. The price is about right but that's also
the same range for the oil pressure sender.

To be certain I'd call a dealership and ask them to look up the
sensor and give you the part number.

--
DougW

DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>> jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> * There's a sensor in the side of the oil pan which appears to have a very
>>> slow leak. Not sure what that sensor is called, but I'd like to change it
>>> next Oil change.
>>
>> That is the oil level sender.
>> Here is a ref
>> http://revbeergoggles.com/Fixes/diagnostics.html
>
> BTW: would that be this?
> NIEHOFF OIL SENDING UNIT for a 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4WD
>
> http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...%7ENONE%7C%7EB

Not sure. The price is about right but that's also
the same range for the oil pressure sender.

To be certain I'd call a dealership and ask them to look up the
sensor and give you the part number.

--
DougW

DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>> Warm engine idles at ~620. The vehicle has no issues starting, and does not
>>> stall at all. I filled the Jeep 7/8 full with 93 (it had only been fed 87)
>>> and then proceeded as follows.
>>
>> Idle speed for the 93 ZJ 4.0 is 600RPM
> Ugh, sorry I always leave something out. It's a 5.2.

:) In that case I dunno. My service books only cover the I6.

>> Get yourself one of these.
>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
> oil pan.


That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/

>>> The 4WD Switch on the transfer case appears to be faulting ("Service 4WD
>>> SWITCH" on console).
>>
>> Connector needs to be cleaned. Not a critical error long as you remember
>> where you put the transfer case shifter.
> Can that be done without dropping the trans case? I know it's kind of hard to
> get at, but it doesn't seem impossible.

I can get to mine without much problem. Don't do it when it's cold out
or the plastic lock tabs can crack.

>>> * The antenna apparently got bent back while in the up position some time
>>> ago, and subsequently, the cable has been disconnected from it. The motor
>>> sounds to be in working order so I'd assume I could just get an antenna and
>>> cable from AutoZone for $16 and do that replacement.
>>
>> Won't work. You need the antenna mast from the dealer or opt for an
>> aftermarket rubber antenna.
> Interesting, since it comes up in AutoZone's computer for 96 JGC 5.2 as a
> compatible part.. hmm

They might have changed things since 98 when I did mine.
If they claim it's compaitible then they should have no problem
taking it back if it isn't. :)

(short instructions)
1) turn the wheels right
2) remove the plastic shroud from behind the passenger side tire
3) looking in there you should see a screw and strap that holds the
motor. Remove the screw
4) track back the wires (up/down wire and antenna cable)
(these were a real pain for me, so once you find them and
_before_ you pull them out, tape a stron cord to the end.
This will give you something to pull them back in with)
5) remove the top lock nut (shiny chrome trim thingy)

The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
(heck, I dunno what it's called)

--
DougW

DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>> Warm engine idles at ~620. The vehicle has no issues starting, and does not
>>> stall at all. I filled the Jeep 7/8 full with 93 (it had only been fed 87)
>>> and then proceeded as follows.
>>
>> Idle speed for the 93 ZJ 4.0 is 600RPM
> Ugh, sorry I always leave something out. It's a 5.2.

:) In that case I dunno. My service books only cover the I6.

>> Get yourself one of these.
>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
> oil pan.


That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/

>>> The 4WD Switch on the transfer case appears to be faulting ("Service 4WD
>>> SWITCH" on console).
>>
>> Connector needs to be cleaned. Not a critical error long as you remember
>> where you put the transfer case shifter.
> Can that be done without dropping the trans case? I know it's kind of hard to
> get at, but it doesn't seem impossible.

I can get to mine without much problem. Don't do it when it's cold out
or the plastic lock tabs can crack.

>>> * The antenna apparently got bent back while in the up position some time
>>> ago, and subsequently, the cable has been disconnected from it. The motor
>>> sounds to be in working order so I'd assume I could just get an antenna and
>>> cable from AutoZone for $16 and do that replacement.
>>
>> Won't work. You need the antenna mast from the dealer or opt for an
>> aftermarket rubber antenna.
> Interesting, since it comes up in AutoZone's computer for 96 JGC 5.2 as a
> compatible part.. hmm

They might have changed things since 98 when I did mine.
If they claim it's compaitible then they should have no problem
taking it back if it isn't. :)

(short instructions)
1) turn the wheels right
2) remove the plastic shroud from behind the passenger side tire
3) looking in there you should see a screw and strap that holds the
motor. Remove the screw
4) track back the wires (up/down wire and antenna cable)
(these were a real pain for me, so once you find them and
_before_ you pull them out, tape a stron cord to the end.
This will give you something to pull them back in with)
5) remove the top lock nut (shiny chrome trim thingy)

The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
(heck, I dunno what it's called)

--
DougW

DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> DougW wrote:
>>> Warm engine idles at ~620. The vehicle has no issues starting, and does not
>>> stall at all. I filled the Jeep 7/8 full with 93 (it had only been fed 87)
>>> and then proceeded as follows.
>>
>> Idle speed for the 93 ZJ 4.0 is 600RPM
> Ugh, sorry I always leave something out. It's a 5.2.

:) In that case I dunno. My service books only cover the I6.

>> Get yourself one of these.
>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
> oil pan.


That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/

>>> The 4WD Switch on the transfer case appears to be faulting ("Service 4WD
>>> SWITCH" on console).
>>
>> Connector needs to be cleaned. Not a critical error long as you remember
>> where you put the transfer case shifter.
> Can that be done without dropping the trans case? I know it's kind of hard to
> get at, but it doesn't seem impossible.

I can get to mine without much problem. Don't do it when it's cold out
or the plastic lock tabs can crack.

>>> * The antenna apparently got bent back while in the up position some time
>>> ago, and subsequently, the cable has been disconnected from it. The motor
>>> sounds to be in working order so I'd assume I could just get an antenna and
>>> cable from AutoZone for $16 and do that replacement.
>>
>> Won't work. You need the antenna mast from the dealer or opt for an
>> aftermarket rubber antenna.
> Interesting, since it comes up in AutoZone's computer for 96 JGC 5.2 as a
> compatible part.. hmm

They might have changed things since 98 when I did mine.
If they claim it's compaitible then they should have no problem
taking it back if it isn't. :)

(short instructions)
1) turn the wheels right
2) remove the plastic shroud from behind the passenger side tire
3) looking in there you should see a screw and strap that holds the
motor. Remove the screw
4) track back the wires (up/down wire and antenna cable)
(these were a real pain for me, so once you find them and
_before_ you pull them out, tape a stron cord to the end.
This will give you something to pull them back in with)
5) remove the top lock nut (shiny chrome trim thingy)

The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
(heck, I dunno what it's called)

--
DougW

jimboe via CarKB.com

DougW wrote:
>jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> Get yourself one of these.
>>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
>> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
>> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
>> oil pan.
>
>That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/
When the truck is cold (i.e. in the morning), there is no noise at all, but
as it begins to warm (after several minutes), I begin to hear the noise,
until it is readily and consistently there at normal operating tempartatures.

Does that fact give any more clues as to what, or what it may not be?

>(short instructions)
[snip]
>The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
>without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
>and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
>(heck, I dunno what it's called)
Excellent! Thanks!

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200512/1

jimboe via CarKB.com

DougW wrote:
>jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> Get yourself one of these.
>>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
>> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
>> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
>> oil pan.
>
>That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/
When the truck is cold (i.e. in the morning), there is no noise at all, but
as it begins to warm (after several minutes), I begin to hear the noise,
until it is readily and consistently there at normal operating tempartatures.

Does that fact give any more clues as to what, or what it may not be?

>(short instructions)
[snip]
>The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
>without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
>and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
>(heck, I dunno what it's called)
Excellent! Thanks!

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200512/1

jimboe via CarKB.com

DougW wrote:
>jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> Get yourself one of these.
>>> http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/385487.htm
>>> They work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
>> Been there done that, still not evident precisely where it comes from-- but,
>> it does seem as though it is slightly more apparent from underneath, by the
>> oil pan.
>
>That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/
When the truck is cold (i.e. in the morning), there is no noise at all, but
as it begins to warm (after several minutes), I begin to hear the noise,
until it is readily and consistently there at normal operating tempartatures.

Does that fact give any more clues as to what, or what it may not be?

>(short instructions)
[snip]
>The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement
>without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent
>and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there
>(heck, I dunno what it's called)
Excellent! Thanks!

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200512/1

jimboe via CarKB.com

DougW wrote:
>jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
>>> * The 4WD Switch on the transfer case appears to be faulting ("Service 4WD
>> SWITCH" on console).
>
>Connector needs to be cleaned. Not a critical error long as you remember
>where you put the transfer case shifter.
I did this the other day. Took it off, cleaned it w/carb cleaner, and the
harness as well. The "piston" thingy in the switch seemed perfectly
operational, and clean as a whistle.

Put it back in, still same crap. I suppose the "internals" of the switch are
shot.
I'll get the new one from auto zone.. like $15 I think.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200512/1