Are you doing the wheel bearings at the same time?

I can't think of any other reason you would want to pull apart the hub
and then for sure have to replace the seals and repack the bearings just
to change a rotor.

But if they might need it, then buy the two inner seals first, the old
ones will mess up when you pull the hub off.

The rotor is an overlay part and comes off by itself. Buy 'Lots' of
good penetrating oil and plan on a 2 hour soaking. I have had to punch
out the freaking lug nut studs on one before it would let go. Had to
take that hub off....

Meanwhile the wheel lugs just slip fit through the rotor, but look
pressed. The press fit is in the hub underneath.

I don't know the size of the nut, I have never needed a wrench on one
because they are just on finger or a light tap with a screwdriver and
hammer to move them tight with locking washers all over the place.

The hub bearings are a pain to set back up, but it is worth it if you
open the front cap and see water or dry grease. If the grease looks
good and the wheel has no wobble when jacked up, I would leave them
alone unless you really know what you are doing. I do, and they are a
pain with big tires...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Robert wrote:
>
> I'm replacing the brakes and rotors on my 1980 cj7 with locking hubs.
> I'm hoping I have the correct rotor. There seemed to be some
> confusion at Discount. They gave me "Wearever YH141257, Aimco 5111,
> Bendix 141257". I crossed this part number at Autozone and they show
> part number 5110??? Is there any difference in the front rotors on
> the cj7's?
>
> Also my main question is what size is the spindle nut for the front.
> I have to be ready to complete this job quickly so I need to order the
> socket ahead of time. I think it is 2 1/16" but I'm not totaly sure.
>
> Thanks
> Rob