Simon Juncal

Sean Prinz wrote:
> Although sometimes increased strength might be a byproduct of the
> alloying procedure....usually the resistance to corrosion is what
> Stainless steels are alloyed for, some of the metals used in the
> process are not as strong as the original metal. The actual process
> used to form the metals originally and then the method used in the
> shaping of them also have a lot to do with the strength and
> ductility. One thing I look at is if someone

Yep I understand that much.

> already makes something similar to what you want...try to find out
> what they used for materials (Several manufacturers offer
> bumpers/bars and racks etc in SS).

That's a good idea, didn't think of that.

> Also stainless steel does rust.....just slower than carbon steels. If
> you want something up there to be shiny.....chrome it.

I'm after stainless for corrosion ressistance, not flash. I never cared
for chrome on anything. I've got SS on the brain lately it just has a
quality I like; looks good brushed or soda blasted... very low
maintainance. I sort of have a SS theme going with this Jeep and I'm
going to see how far I can go with it.

Simon Juncal

Sean Prinz wrote:
> Although sometimes increased strength might be a byproduct of the
> alloying procedure....usually the resistance to corrosion is what
> Stainless steels are alloyed for, some of the metals used in the
> process are not as strong as the original metal. The actual process
> used to form the metals originally and then the method used in the
> shaping of them also have a lot to do with the strength and
> ductility. One thing I look at is if someone

Yep I understand that much.

> already makes something similar to what you want...try to find out
> what they used for materials (Several manufacturers offer
> bumpers/bars and racks etc in SS).

That's a good idea, didn't think of that.

> Also stainless steel does rust.....just slower than carbon steels. If
> you want something up there to be shiny.....chrome it.

I'm after stainless for corrosion ressistance, not flash. I never cared
for chrome on anything. I've got SS on the brain lately it just has a
quality I like; looks good brushed or soda blasted... very low
maintainance. I sort of have a SS theme going with this Jeep and I'm
going to see how far I can go with it.

Simon Juncal

Sean Prinz wrote:
> Although sometimes increased strength might be a byproduct of the
> alloying procedure....usually the resistance to corrosion is what
> Stainless steels are alloyed for, some of the metals used in the
> process are not as strong as the original metal. The actual process
> used to form the metals originally and then the method used in the
> shaping of them also have a lot to do with the strength and
> ductility. One thing I look at is if someone

Yep I understand that much.

> already makes something similar to what you want...try to find out
> what they used for materials (Several manufacturers offer
> bumpers/bars and racks etc in SS).

That's a good idea, didn't think of that.

> Also stainless steel does rust.....just slower than carbon steels. If
> you want something up there to be shiny.....chrome it.

I'm after stainless for corrosion ressistance, not flash. I never cared
for chrome on anything. I've got SS on the brain lately it just has a
quality I like; looks good brushed or soda blasted... very low
maintainance. I sort of have a SS theme going with this Jeep and I'm
going to see how far I can go with it.

Simon Juncal

Nathan Collier wrote:
> "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> news:3FAA7CCB.40303@erols.com...
>
>>I'm
>>wondering how comparable X gauge of stainless tubing is verses the same
>>gauge of carbon steel.
>
>
> there is no significant difference.

Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

> depends. do you want to eat off it or just use it to hold things?

Hold things LOL

> i would build with 11ga., but i overbuild _everything_. while its more
> durable, its also needlessly heavy......but thats just how i build things.
> 14ga. would be fine, even 16ga. if youre only talking about a few hundred
> pounds.

Well I've never weighed a canoe and that would be it's main purpose
(that and letting me avoid putting a cargo rack on the back above the
spare). I also tend to overbuild but I don't want to add weight where I
could get away with less... Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
for the "legs"

> i would build with 1/4" 2x2. bear in mind there are a few things to know
> about stainless. i recommend you tig it, but if youre going to mig it first
> practice on scrap.

Good advice, I'm planing on it (already picked up some scrap to practice on)

> also if you mig it be sure and use a tri-mix gas
> otherwise the welding will effect the corrosive resistance of the stainless
> in the HAZ causing rust.

I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending? I might fab the
parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living). Anyway thanks
for the advice.

Simon Juncal

Nathan Collier wrote:
> "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> news:3FAA7CCB.40303@erols.com...
>
>>I'm
>>wondering how comparable X gauge of stainless tubing is verses the same
>>gauge of carbon steel.
>
>
> there is no significant difference.

Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

> depends. do you want to eat off it or just use it to hold things?

Hold things LOL

> i would build with 11ga., but i overbuild _everything_. while its more
> durable, its also needlessly heavy......but thats just how i build things.
> 14ga. would be fine, even 16ga. if youre only talking about a few hundred
> pounds.

Well I've never weighed a canoe and that would be it's main purpose
(that and letting me avoid putting a cargo rack on the back above the
spare). I also tend to overbuild but I don't want to add weight where I
could get away with less... Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
for the "legs"

> i would build with 1/4" 2x2. bear in mind there are a few things to know
> about stainless. i recommend you tig it, but if youre going to mig it first
> practice on scrap.

Good advice, I'm planing on it (already picked up some scrap to practice on)

> also if you mig it be sure and use a tri-mix gas
> otherwise the welding will effect the corrosive resistance of the stainless
> in the HAZ causing rust.

I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending? I might fab the
parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living). Anyway thanks
for the advice.

Simon Juncal

Nathan Collier wrote:
> "Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
> news:3FAA7CCB.40303@erols.com...
>
>>I'm
>>wondering how comparable X gauge of stainless tubing is verses the same
>>gauge of carbon steel.
>
>
> there is no significant difference.

Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

> depends. do you want to eat off it or just use it to hold things?

Hold things LOL

> i would build with 11ga., but i overbuild _everything_. while its more
> durable, its also needlessly heavy......but thats just how i build things.
> 14ga. would be fine, even 16ga. if youre only talking about a few hundred
> pounds.

Well I've never weighed a canoe and that would be it's main purpose
(that and letting me avoid putting a cargo rack on the back above the
spare). I also tend to overbuild but I don't want to add weight where I
could get away with less... Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
for the "legs"

> i would build with 1/4" 2x2. bear in mind there are a few things to know
> about stainless. i recommend you tig it, but if youre going to mig it first
> practice on scrap.

Good advice, I'm planing on it (already picked up some scrap to practice on)

> also if you mig it be sure and use a tri-mix gas
> otherwise the welding will effect the corrosive resistance of the stainless
> in the HAZ causing rust.

I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending? I might fab the
parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living). Anyway thanks
for the advice.

Nathan Collier

"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
news:3FAB505F.9070200@erols.com...
> > there is no significant difference.
>
> Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

for your intended usage there is no difference. if you were referencing
vehicle control arms or steering components it would be one thing but for
what you reference there is no difference.


> Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
> for the "legs"

actually with the legs being only an inch or two long they could actually be
paper thin and still be stronger than the rest. i wouldnt worry _that_ much
about saving weight though, not over pieces only a few inches long. get
some 14ga square tubing and be done with it.


> I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending?

the only way i cut stainless is with a plasma cutter, but it can be sawed,
snipped, and sheared. if you need any information on equipment, see
http://7slotgrille.com/tech/welders/index.html



> I might fab the
> parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living).

once you price the stainless i think youll want to make sure its done
properly. :-)


--
Nathan W. Collier
http://7SlotGrille.com
http://UtilityOffRoad.com

Nathan Collier

"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
news:3FAB505F.9070200@erols.com...
> > there is no significant difference.
>
> Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

for your intended usage there is no difference. if you were referencing
vehicle control arms or steering components it would be one thing but for
what you reference there is no difference.


> Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
> for the "legs"

actually with the legs being only an inch or two long they could actually be
paper thin and still be stronger than the rest. i wouldnt worry _that_ much
about saving weight though, not over pieces only a few inches long. get
some 14ga square tubing and be done with it.


> I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending?

the only way i cut stainless is with a plasma cutter, but it can be sawed,
snipped, and sheared. if you need any information on equipment, see
http://7slotgrille.com/tech/welders/index.html



> I might fab the
> parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living).

once you price the stainless i think youll want to make sure its done
properly. :-)


--
Nathan W. Collier
http://7SlotGrille.com
http://UtilityOffRoad.com

Nathan Collier

"Simon Juncal" <sjuncal@erols.com> wrote in message
news:3FAB505F.9070200@erols.com...
> > there is no significant difference.
>
> Okay, I always got the impression SS was generally more brittle.

for your intended usage there is no difference. if you were referencing
vehicle control arms or steering components it would be one thing but for
what you reference there is no difference.


> Maybe 16 gauge for the rack and 14 or 12ga.
> for the "legs"

actually with the legs being only an inch or two long they could actually be
paper thin and still be stronger than the rest. i wouldnt worry _that_ much
about saving weight though, not over pieces only a few inches long. get
some 14ga square tubing and be done with it.


> I'm curious does this also apply to cutting and bending?

the only way i cut stainless is with a plasma cutter, but it can be sawed,
snipped, and sheared. if you need any information on equipment, see
http://7slotgrille.com/tech/welders/index.html



> I might fab the
> parts and take them to a friend (who welds for a living).

once you price the stainless i think youll want to make sure its done
properly. :-)


--
Nathan W. Collier
http://7SlotGrille.com
http://UtilityOffRoad.com