Hi Mike
Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
"you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the Chilton
is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to install the new
parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton explains/not
explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on line for the brakes.
Thanks again I appreciate your help.
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44F1C694.8D2693E4@sympatico.ca...
> The brakes are almost identical on the 88 and 86, so are the engines and
> the engine wiring harness. The Haynes CJ book has the best directions
> for all that on 'your' Jeep. Their YJ book is more for the later 4.0
> setup.
>
> The emergency brake cables are easy to replace, especially with large
> tires. Room to crawl around. You need to have the rear brakes adjusted
> properly before doing the cables or the cables will/could end up at the
> wrong place and things like snapped cables happen.
>
> I doubt the adjusters will work as it is right now, I suspect one is
> laying in the bottom of the drum jamming the brakes as you come to a
> stop. I would open that ASAP and look at it.
>
> When the adjuster does work, they are left and right sided, be careful
> not to mix parts up, you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again. The shoes have a
> rocking motion. The adjusters have to be manually set up close the
> first time or the adjusters won't catch.
>
> The Sears kit for the jack and stands is a good one. I can fit one like
> it right behind the passenger seat when it is tipped forward. When the
> seat comes back it locks/jams the jack in place so it can't turn into a
> missile.
>
> Mike
>
> Boris wrote:
>>
>> Thanks again Mike
>> The rear left drum doesn`t lock under hard braking only in city driving
>> and locks just before I come to a complete stop (2-3mph)...I`m thinking
>> of
>> going to Sears to pick up a floor lift, they have a 3 ton floor lift with
>> 2
>> floor stands for $70...anything to watch out for? The spare will have to
>> wait until I figure out the brake lock-up...you made me nervous! I have a
>> Chilton Repair Book covers 1945-1987 Jeeps of course mine is a`88 so I
>> don`t
>> know for sure if `88 YJ have self adjusting rear drums like the
>> `87...I`ll
>> take the Jeep to a parking lot and try the self adjusting
>> procedure.....10-15 stops in reverse, see if that will help. If not I
>> will
>> bring the Jeep to a brake shop....they can install the new emergency
>> cables
>> that I have too.
>> Thanks again
>> Boris
>> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44F0B70D.6CC2A807@sympatico.ca...
>> > The way to tell if you have a locker or limited slip is to jack up both
>> > wheels and spin one by hand. If the wheel on the other side spins the
>> > same way, then you have a traction device. If the wheel spins the
>> > opposite way you have open differential.
>> >
>> > You can't use a smaller tire on an axle with a locker or limited slip.
>> >
>> > If you just have a locker in the back, then if you get a flat you
>> > 'must'
>> > use the same size tire or you will destroy the gears. This means
>> > swapping tires around if you use a smaller spare.
>> >
>> > If the front is still open, then when you have a flat in the rear, you
>> > have to take a front tire off and put it in the back and use the
>> > smaller
>> > spare in the front where the open is or vise versa if you only have a
>> > front locker.
>> >
>> > You should get that brake looked at. Locking up in the rear can cause
>> > you to do 360's faster than you can blink.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Boris wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >> I don`t think I have locker or limited slip, the guy I bought it from
>> >> didn`t mention. After it stops raining I`ll crawl underneath and take
>> >> some
>> >> pictures...I just purchased the YJ......has rebuilt (Jasper or rebuilt
>> >> by
>> >> Jasper) 6cyl, auto transmission (new seals+new torque converter) a
>> >> Rubicon
>> >> 5" lift and them big tires...he also claims new brakes last year, but
>> >> the
>> >> rear left drum locks up at crawl speed if I brake too hard...the
>> >> emergency
>> >> brake doesn`t work (maybe that`s the reason the rear drum locks once
>> >> in a
>> >> while) needs the cables which are in the mail, and a muffler and tail
>> >> pipe...also in the mail. I live in N.J. and the YJ will be a pavement
>> >> pounder...not much oportunity to go off road. Jeep runs/handles good,
>> >> at
>> >> 60mph the rpm`s are a little over 2000rpm`s.
>> >> Thanks for your help
>> >> Boris
>> >> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >>
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:44F097C6.363EA70D@sympatico.ca...
>> >> > Not even in the ball park.
>> >> >
>> >> > I would go with the cheaper stock 15"x7" rim that is easy to find a
>> >> > used
>> >> > tire for. 16" tires for a YJ are rare and pricey.
>> >> >
>> >> > To start off, do you have a locker or limited slip in either axle?
>> >> > The
>> >> > answer to that will make a radical difference in what you can run.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Boris wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> If I get a 225/75/16 or 205/75/16 will this be the same height as
>> >> >> my
>> >> >> 315/75/16? and what rim width will I need for this tire as a
>> >> >> spare?
>> >> >> or
>> >> >> am I
>> >> >> way off base.
>> >> >> Thanks
>> >> >> Boris
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:vrKHg.87$N84.62@trnddc08...
>> >> >> > Thank you for the replies so far....I`m going to get one of those
>> >> >> > 48"
>> >> >> > Farmers Jack`s
>> >> >> > At this point I just want a spare tire... as long it is the same
>> >> >> > height
>> >> >> > as
>> >> >> > the other 3 tires I don`t care if it is skinnier. I`m only going
>> >> >> > to
>> >> >> > drive
>> >> >> > 10 miles or so until I get the original 35" tire fixed. I`m
>> >> >> > looking
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > $50 steel rim and a $100 tire. I`m probably not the sharpest
>> >> >> > crayon
>> >> >> > in
>> >> >> > the
>> >> >> > box when it comes to tires+rim sizes..... could someone suggest a
>> >> >> > rim
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> > a tire....please.
>> >> >> > Thanks
>> >> >> > Boris
>> >> >> > http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> >> > news:44EE26F2.4C1A92F1@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >> >> Most rims have the size stamped into the back side.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Mike
>> >> >> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> >> >> Jan/06
>> >> >> >> http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> >> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> An 8-10" rim should work. Couldn't you just remove a wheel and
>> >> >> >>> measure
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> rim width? it's possible to do without removing the tire, if
>> >> >> >>> you
>> >> >> >>> want
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> spare to match.
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> >>> news:BIgHg.24142$u1.16868@trnddc05...
>> >> >> >>> >I just bought a `88 Wrangler with 315/75/16 tires. I don`t
>> >> >> >>> >have a
>> >> >> >>> >spare
>> >> >> >>> >tire so I need a spare. I know that I need a 16" rim, 5 bolt
>> >> >> >>> >4.5"
>> >> >> >>> >but
>> >> >> >>> >what
>> >> >> >>> >rim width do I need for a 315/75/16 tire?
>> >> >> >>> > Thanks
>> >> >> >>> > Boris
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >

 

Hi Mike
Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
"you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the Chilton
is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to install the new
parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton explains/not
explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on line for the brakes.
Thanks again I appreciate your help.
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44F1C694.8D2693E4@sympatico.ca...
> The brakes are almost identical on the 88 and 86, so are the engines and
> the engine wiring harness. The Haynes CJ book has the best directions
> for all that on 'your' Jeep. Their YJ book is more for the later 4.0
> setup.
>
> The emergency brake cables are easy to replace, especially with large
> tires. Room to crawl around. You need to have the rear brakes adjusted
> properly before doing the cables or the cables will/could end up at the
> wrong place and things like snapped cables happen.
>
> I doubt the adjusters will work as it is right now, I suspect one is
> laying in the bottom of the drum jamming the brakes as you come to a
> stop. I would open that ASAP and look at it.
>
> When the adjuster does work, they are left and right sided, be careful
> not to mix parts up, you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again. The shoes have a
> rocking motion. The adjusters have to be manually set up close the
> first time or the adjusters won't catch.
>
> The Sears kit for the jack and stands is a good one. I can fit one like
> it right behind the passenger seat when it is tipped forward. When the
> seat comes back it locks/jams the jack in place so it can't turn into a
> missile.
>
> Mike
>
> Boris wrote:
>>
>> Thanks again Mike
>> The rear left drum doesn`t lock under hard braking only in city driving
>> and locks just before I come to a complete stop (2-3mph)...I`m thinking
>> of
>> going to Sears to pick up a floor lift, they have a 3 ton floor lift with
>> 2
>> floor stands for $70...anything to watch out for? The spare will have to
>> wait until I figure out the brake lock-up...you made me nervous! I have a
>> Chilton Repair Book covers 1945-1987 Jeeps of course mine is a`88 so I
>> don`t
>> know for sure if `88 YJ have self adjusting rear drums like the
>> `87...I`ll
>> take the Jeep to a parking lot and try the self adjusting
>> procedure.....10-15 stops in reverse, see if that will help. If not I
>> will
>> bring the Jeep to a brake shop....they can install the new emergency
>> cables
>> that I have too.
>> Thanks again
>> Boris
>> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44F0B70D.6CC2A807@sympatico.ca...
>> > The way to tell if you have a locker or limited slip is to jack up both
>> > wheels and spin one by hand. If the wheel on the other side spins the
>> > same way, then you have a traction device. If the wheel spins the
>> > opposite way you have open differential.
>> >
>> > You can't use a smaller tire on an axle with a locker or limited slip.
>> >
>> > If you just have a locker in the back, then if you get a flat you
>> > 'must'
>> > use the same size tire or you will destroy the gears. This means
>> > swapping tires around if you use a smaller spare.
>> >
>> > If the front is still open, then when you have a flat in the rear, you
>> > have to take a front tire off and put it in the back and use the
>> > smaller
>> > spare in the front where the open is or vise versa if you only have a
>> > front locker.
>> >
>> > You should get that brake looked at. Locking up in the rear can cause
>> > you to do 360's faster than you can blink.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Boris wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >> I don`t think I have locker or limited slip, the guy I bought it from
>> >> didn`t mention. After it stops raining I`ll crawl underneath and take
>> >> some
>> >> pictures...I just purchased the YJ......has rebuilt (Jasper or rebuilt
>> >> by
>> >> Jasper) 6cyl, auto transmission (new seals+new torque converter) a
>> >> Rubicon
>> >> 5" lift and them big tires...he also claims new brakes last year, but
>> >> the
>> >> rear left drum locks up at crawl speed if I brake too hard...the
>> >> emergency
>> >> brake doesn`t work (maybe that`s the reason the rear drum locks once
>> >> in a
>> >> while) needs the cables which are in the mail, and a muffler and tail
>> >> pipe...also in the mail. I live in N.J. and the YJ will be a pavement
>> >> pounder...not much oportunity to go off road. Jeep runs/handles good,
>> >> at
>> >> 60mph the rpm`s are a little over 2000rpm`s.
>> >> Thanks for your help
>> >> Boris
>> >> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >>
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:44F097C6.363EA70D@sympatico.ca...
>> >> > Not even in the ball park.
>> >> >
>> >> > I would go with the cheaper stock 15"x7" rim that is easy to find a
>> >> > used
>> >> > tire for. 16" tires for a YJ are rare and pricey.
>> >> >
>> >> > To start off, do you have a locker or limited slip in either axle?
>> >> > The
>> >> > answer to that will make a radical difference in what you can run.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Boris wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> If I get a 225/75/16 or 205/75/16 will this be the same height as
>> >> >> my
>> >> >> 315/75/16? and what rim width will I need for this tire as a
>> >> >> spare?
>> >> >> or
>> >> >> am I
>> >> >> way off base.
>> >> >> Thanks
>> >> >> Boris
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:vrKHg.87$N84.62@trnddc08...
>> >> >> > Thank you for the replies so far....I`m going to get one of those
>> >> >> > 48"
>> >> >> > Farmers Jack`s
>> >> >> > At this point I just want a spare tire... as long it is the same
>> >> >> > height
>> >> >> > as
>> >> >> > the other 3 tires I don`t care if it is skinnier. I`m only going
>> >> >> > to
>> >> >> > drive
>> >> >> > 10 miles or so until I get the original 35" tire fixed. I`m
>> >> >> > looking
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > $50 steel rim and a $100 tire. I`m probably not the sharpest
>> >> >> > crayon
>> >> >> > in
>> >> >> > the
>> >> >> > box when it comes to tires+rim sizes..... could someone suggest a
>> >> >> > rim
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> > a tire....please.
>> >> >> > Thanks
>> >> >> > Boris
>> >> >> > http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> >> > news:44EE26F2.4C1A92F1@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >> >> Most rims have the size stamped into the back side.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Mike
>> >> >> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> >> >> Jan/06
>> >> >> >> http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> >> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> An 8-10" rim should work. Couldn't you just remove a wheel and
>> >> >> >>> measure
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> rim width? it's possible to do without removing the tire, if
>> >> >> >>> you
>> >> >> >>> want
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> spare to match.
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> >>> news:BIgHg.24142$u1.16868@trnddc05...
>> >> >> >>> >I just bought a `88 Wrangler with 315/75/16 tires. I don`t
>> >> >> >>> >have a
>> >> >> >>> >spare
>> >> >> >>> >tire so I need a spare. I know that I need a 16" rim, 5 bolt
>> >> >> >>> >4.5"
>> >> >> >>> >but
>> >> >> >>> >what
>> >> >> >>> >rim width do I need for a 315/75/16 tire?
>> >> >> >>> > Thanks
>> >> >> >>> > Boris
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >

 

Hi Mike
Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
"you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the Chilton
is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to install the new
parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton explains/not
explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on line for the brakes.
Thanks again I appreciate your help.
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44F1C694.8D2693E4@sympatico.ca...
> The brakes are almost identical on the 88 and 86, so are the engines and
> the engine wiring harness. The Haynes CJ book has the best directions
> for all that on 'your' Jeep. Their YJ book is more for the later 4.0
> setup.
>
> The emergency brake cables are easy to replace, especially with large
> tires. Room to crawl around. You need to have the rear brakes adjusted
> properly before doing the cables or the cables will/could end up at the
> wrong place and things like snapped cables happen.
>
> I doubt the adjusters will work as it is right now, I suspect one is
> laying in the bottom of the drum jamming the brakes as you come to a
> stop. I would open that ASAP and look at it.
>
> When the adjuster does work, they are left and right sided, be careful
> not to mix parts up, you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again. The shoes have a
> rocking motion. The adjusters have to be manually set up close the
> first time or the adjusters won't catch.
>
> The Sears kit for the jack and stands is a good one. I can fit one like
> it right behind the passenger seat when it is tipped forward. When the
> seat comes back it locks/jams the jack in place so it can't turn into a
> missile.
>
> Mike
>
> Boris wrote:
>>
>> Thanks again Mike
>> The rear left drum doesn`t lock under hard braking only in city driving
>> and locks just before I come to a complete stop (2-3mph)...I`m thinking
>> of
>> going to Sears to pick up a floor lift, they have a 3 ton floor lift with
>> 2
>> floor stands for $70...anything to watch out for? The spare will have to
>> wait until I figure out the brake lock-up...you made me nervous! I have a
>> Chilton Repair Book covers 1945-1987 Jeeps of course mine is a`88 so I
>> don`t
>> know for sure if `88 YJ have self adjusting rear drums like the
>> `87...I`ll
>> take the Jeep to a parking lot and try the self adjusting
>> procedure.....10-15 stops in reverse, see if that will help. If not I
>> will
>> bring the Jeep to a brake shop....they can install the new emergency
>> cables
>> that I have too.
>> Thanks again
>> Boris
>> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44F0B70D.6CC2A807@sympatico.ca...
>> > The way to tell if you have a locker or limited slip is to jack up both
>> > wheels and spin one by hand. If the wheel on the other side spins the
>> > same way, then you have a traction device. If the wheel spins the
>> > opposite way you have open differential.
>> >
>> > You can't use a smaller tire on an axle with a locker or limited slip.
>> >
>> > If you just have a locker in the back, then if you get a flat you
>> > 'must'
>> > use the same size tire or you will destroy the gears. This means
>> > swapping tires around if you use a smaller spare.
>> >
>> > If the front is still open, then when you have a flat in the rear, you
>> > have to take a front tire off and put it in the back and use the
>> > smaller
>> > spare in the front where the open is or vise versa if you only have a
>> > front locker.
>> >
>> > You should get that brake looked at. Locking up in the rear can cause
>> > you to do 360's faster than you can blink.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> >
>> > Boris wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >> I don`t think I have locker or limited slip, the guy I bought it from
>> >> didn`t mention. After it stops raining I`ll crawl underneath and take
>> >> some
>> >> pictures...I just purchased the YJ......has rebuilt (Jasper or rebuilt
>> >> by
>> >> Jasper) 6cyl, auto transmission (new seals+new torque converter) a
>> >> Rubicon
>> >> 5" lift and them big tires...he also claims new brakes last year, but
>> >> the
>> >> rear left drum locks up at crawl speed if I brake too hard...the
>> >> emergency
>> >> brake doesn`t work (maybe that`s the reason the rear drum locks once
>> >> in a
>> >> while) needs the cables which are in the mail, and a muffler and tail
>> >> pipe...also in the mail. I live in N.J. and the YJ will be a pavement
>> >> pounder...not much oportunity to go off road. Jeep runs/handles good,
>> >> at
>> >> 60mph the rpm`s are a little over 2000rpm`s.
>> >> Thanks for your help
>> >> Boris
>> >> http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >>
>> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> news:44F097C6.363EA70D@sympatico.ca...
>> >> > Not even in the ball park.
>> >> >
>> >> > I would go with the cheaper stock 15"x7" rim that is easy to find a
>> >> > used
>> >> > tire for. 16" tires for a YJ are rare and pricey.
>> >> >
>> >> > To start off, do you have a locker or limited slip in either axle?
>> >> > The
>> >> > answer to that will make a radical difference in what you can run.
>> >> >
>> >> > Mike
>> >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >
>> >> > Boris wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> If I get a 225/75/16 or 205/75/16 will this be the same height as
>> >> >> my
>> >> >> 315/75/16? and what rim width will I need for this tire as a
>> >> >> spare?
>> >> >> or
>> >> >> am I
>> >> >> way off base.
>> >> >> Thanks
>> >> >> Boris
>> >> >>
>> >> >> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> news:vrKHg.87$N84.62@trnddc08...
>> >> >> > Thank you for the replies so far....I`m going to get one of those
>> >> >> > 48"
>> >> >> > Farmers Jack`s
>> >> >> > At this point I just want a spare tire... as long it is the same
>> >> >> > height
>> >> >> > as
>> >> >> > the other 3 tires I don`t care if it is skinnier. I`m only going
>> >> >> > to
>> >> >> > drive
>> >> >> > 10 miles or so until I get the original 35" tire fixed. I`m
>> >> >> > looking
>> >> >> > for
>> >> >> > a
>> >> >> > $50 steel rim and a $100 tire. I`m probably not the sharpest
>> >> >> > crayon
>> >> >> > in
>> >> >> > the
>> >> >> > box when it comes to tires+rim sizes..... could someone suggest a
>> >> >> > rim
>> >> >> > and
>> >> >> > a tire....please.
>> >> >> > Thanks
>> >> >> > Boris
>> >> >> > http://public.fotki.com/borysd/
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> >> >> > news:44EE26F2.4C1A92F1@sympatico.ca...
>> >> >> >> Most rims have the size stamped into the back side.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Mike
>> >> >> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >> >> >> Jan/06
>> >> >> >> http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> >> >> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> An 8-10" rim should work. Couldn't you just remove a wheel and
>> >> >> >>> measure
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> rim width? it's possible to do without removing the tire, if
>> >> >> >>> you
>> >> >> >>> want
>> >> >> >>> the
>> >> >> >>> spare to match.
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> "Boris" <borysd@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> >> >> >>> news:BIgHg.24142$u1.16868@trnddc05...
>> >> >> >>> >I just bought a `88 Wrangler with 315/75/16 tires. I don`t
>> >> >> >>> >have a
>> >> >> >>> >spare
>> >> >> >>> >tire so I need a spare. I know that I need a 16" rim, 5 bolt
>> >> >> >>> >4.5"
>> >> >> >>> >but
>> >> >> >>> >what
>> >> >> >>> >rim width do I need for a 315/75/16 tire?
>> >> >> >>> > Thanks
>> >> >> >>> > Boris
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >

 

Boris wrote:
> Hi Mike
> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.

Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.

--
DougW

 

Boris wrote:
> Hi Mike
> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.

Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.

--
DougW

 

Boris wrote:
> Hi Mike
> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.

Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.

--
DougW

 

Boris wrote:
> Hi Mike
> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.

Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.

--
DougW

 

Thanks Doug
The rear left parking brake cable snapped at the equalizer bracket....
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:BklIg.2467$JR5.1974@dukeread11...
> Boris wrote:
>> Hi Mike
>> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
>> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
>> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
>> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
>> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
>> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
>> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
>> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.
>
> Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
> release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

Thanks Doug
The rear left parking brake cable snapped at the equalizer bracket....
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:BklIg.2467$JR5.1974@dukeread11...
> Boris wrote:
>> Hi Mike
>> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
>> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
>> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
>> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
>> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
>> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
>> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
>> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.
>
> Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
> release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

Thanks Doug
The rear left parking brake cable snapped at the equalizer bracket....
Boris
http://public.fotki.com/borysd/


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:BklIg.2467$JR5.1974@dukeread11...
> Boris wrote:
>> Hi Mike
>> Of course it is raining again but I did follow your direction...
>> "you have to hit the brakes in reverse, then in
>> forward to reset the arm, then in reverse again"
>> and it worked (for now) wheel doesn`t lock up anymore. Anyway the
>> Chilton is not very good, but I will have to pull the drums to
>> install the new parking brake cables anyway at least the way Chilton
>> explains/not explains....I`ll see if I can find any cut sheets on
>> line for the brakes. Thanks again I appreciate your help.
>
> Keep in mind that if the drum has developed a lip, you might have to
> release the parking brake cable at the T in order to get the drums off.
>
> --
> DougW
>