On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:32:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>SnoMan wrote:
> One more thin if
>> you want to try to twist it loss use a small pipe wrench not vise
>> grips. The teeth in a pipe wrech bite iton surface in one directio and
>> to not depend on a brute force crush to gripe like vise grip which
>> grip sleeve to stud even more.
>
>Well..... I really think that can work two ways.... The pipe wrench
>will keep grabbing tighter as you pull which can hold the parts together
>harder to the point of warping or crushing them...
>
>You have to be careful with either tool.
>
>Pipe wrenches are great for things like tie rods and drag links though.

You have a point but generally a pipe wrench will put less compression
of surface because the teeth dig it with less pressure to get a got
grip (and this depends on pulling force applied) where with vise
gripe you ahve to smash the heck out of it before you even pull on
wrench

>
>>
>> I would not be at all. Sleeve would split of it easily.
>
>You haven't had the rust experience some of us have that live up here in
>the rust belt. The part is too long to crack lengthwise when fused to
>the shaft. I have seen it tried. The crushed end did allow penetrating
>oil to go in after though.
>
>PB Blaster and time are the best from what I have seen.
>
>Shocks are a pain!

I grew up in the rust belt and althoiugh I am not in it know my plow
trucks live in it because they are out a lot in it when roads are
first being salted and ------ing salt too so it is a big battle at
times. A trick i learn long ago is to use the old gear oil I save from
changes to a old tractor (85w140 and it takes about 4 gallons at a
time) and spray it on bottom of truck and frame wih a paint spray gun
every fall and spring. Gear oil is tuff to wear off and it penetrates
well into crack and seems with time. My old 79 Jeep 20 wihich plowed
for many years still have about 98 perecent of frame and you can
remove shocks or ubolts without having heart attack doing it even
after all these years. Kinda sounds a bit corny but it really does
work well and keep plow equipment looking get too. (I have a 12 year
old plow that looks better than some 2 or 3 year old ones)

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:32:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>SnoMan wrote:
> One more thin if
>> you want to try to twist it loss use a small pipe wrench not vise
>> grips. The teeth in a pipe wrech bite iton surface in one directio and
>> to not depend on a brute force crush to gripe like vise grip which
>> grip sleeve to stud even more.
>
>Well..... I really think that can work two ways.... The pipe wrench
>will keep grabbing tighter as you pull which can hold the parts together
>harder to the point of warping or crushing them...
>
>You have to be careful with either tool.
>
>Pipe wrenches are great for things like tie rods and drag links though.

You have a point but generally a pipe wrench will put less compression
of surface because the teeth dig it with less pressure to get a got
grip (and this depends on pulling force applied) where with vise
gripe you ahve to smash the heck out of it before you even pull on
wrench

>
>>
>> I would not be at all. Sleeve would split of it easily.
>
>You haven't had the rust experience some of us have that live up here in
>the rust belt. The part is too long to crack lengthwise when fused to
>the shaft. I have seen it tried. The crushed end did allow penetrating
>oil to go in after though.
>
>PB Blaster and time are the best from what I have seen.
>
>Shocks are a pain!

I grew up in the rust belt and althoiugh I am not in it know my plow
trucks live in it because they are out a lot in it when roads are
first being salted and ------ing salt too so it is a big battle at
times. A trick i learn long ago is to use the old gear oil I save from
changes to a old tractor (85w140 and it takes about 4 gallons at a
time) and spray it on bottom of truck and frame wih a paint spray gun
every fall and spring. Gear oil is tuff to wear off and it penetrates
well into crack and seems with time. My old 79 Jeep 20 wihich plowed
for many years still have about 98 perecent of frame and you can
remove shocks or ubolts without having heart attack doing it even
after all these years. Kinda sounds a bit corny but it really does
work well and keep plow equipment looking get too. (I have a 12 year
old plow that looks better than some 2 or 3 year old ones)

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:32:53 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>SnoMan wrote:
> One more thin if
>> you want to try to twist it loss use a small pipe wrench not vise
>> grips. The teeth in a pipe wrech bite iton surface in one directio and
>> to not depend on a brute force crush to gripe like vise grip which
>> grip sleeve to stud even more.
>
>Well..... I really think that can work two ways.... The pipe wrench
>will keep grabbing tighter as you pull which can hold the parts together
>harder to the point of warping or crushing them...
>
>You have to be careful with either tool.
>
>Pipe wrenches are great for things like tie rods and drag links though.

You have a point but generally a pipe wrench will put less compression
of surface because the teeth dig it with less pressure to get a got
grip (and this depends on pulling force applied) where with vise
gripe you ahve to smash the heck out of it before you even pull on
wrench

>
>>
>> I would not be at all. Sleeve would split of it easily.
>
>You haven't had the rust experience some of us have that live up here in
>the rust belt. The part is too long to crack lengthwise when fused to
>the shaft. I have seen it tried. The crushed end did allow penetrating
>oil to go in after though.
>
>PB Blaster and time are the best from what I have seen.
>
>Shocks are a pain!

I grew up in the rust belt and althoiugh I am not in it know my plow
trucks live in it because they are out a lot in it when roads are
first being salted and ------ing salt too so it is a big battle at
times. A trick i learn long ago is to use the old gear oil I save from
changes to a old tractor (85w140 and it takes about 4 gallons at a
time) and spray it on bottom of truck and frame wih a paint spray gun
every fall and spring. Gear oil is tuff to wear off and it penetrates
well into crack and seems with time. My old 79 Jeep 20 wihich plowed
for many years still have about 98 perecent of frame and you can
remove shocks or ubolts without having heart attack doing it even
after all these years. Kinda sounds a bit corny but it really does
work well and keep plow equipment looking get too. (I have a 12 year
old plow that looks better than some 2 or 3 year old ones)

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:30:18 GMT, "Frank" <none@none.net> wrote:

>I had already liberally dosed the area with PB Blaster over
>several days, but will try scoring it with a small Dremel wheel
>and perhaps it will peel off.


You might try heating it up with a touch to several hundred degrees
(hot enough the PB blaster smoxes when you spray it one) and then
spray it down stead with PB Blaster untill in cool engone to stop
smoking as the heat will expand it and as it cools it will suck some
of the PB into joint.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:30:18 GMT, "Frank" <none@none.net> wrote:

>I had already liberally dosed the area with PB Blaster over
>several days, but will try scoring it with a small Dremel wheel
>and perhaps it will peel off.


You might try heating it up with a touch to several hundred degrees
(hot enough the PB blaster smoxes when you spray it one) and then
spray it down stead with PB Blaster untill in cool engone to stop
smoking as the heat will expand it and as it cools it will suck some
of the PB into joint.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:30:18 GMT, "Frank" <none@none.net> wrote:

>I had already liberally dosed the area with PB Blaster over
>several days, but will try scoring it with a small Dremel wheel
>and perhaps it will peel off.


You might try heating it up with a touch to several hundred degrees
(hot enough the PB blaster smoxes when you spray it one) and then
spray it down stead with PB Blaster untill in cool engone to stop
smoking as the heat will expand it and as it cools it will suck some
of the PB into joint.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

 

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 20:30:18 GMT, "Frank" <none@none.net> wrote:

>I had already liberally dosed the area with PB Blaster over
>several days, but will try scoring it with a small Dremel wheel
>and perhaps it will peel off.


You might try heating it up with a touch to several hundred degrees
(hot enough the PB blaster smoxes when you spray it one) and then
spray it down stead with PB Blaster untill in cool engone to stop
smoking as the heat will expand it and as it cools it will suck some
of the PB into joint.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com