Nick Hughes

I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
connector.

Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
to melt the plastic.

The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Also note, you don't have to replace the entire AC Heater Control unit
if your fan speed switch melts! The fan speed switch and 5 pins unbolt
from the unit. The replacement is part number 1-05011214AA (2000 Jeep
TJ), and is about $20.

Another problem I encountered was the blow motor resistor again. Only
the high speed would work for me. When taking it apart, it looked in
great shape (no rust new looking), however there was no continuity
between the input pins. Maybe the diode was blown? Anyway, I had to
order a new one, which ran ~$45.

Thanks DaimlerChrysler!

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Nick


DanFXR wrote:
> I had a similar problem.
> I went to the dealer parts guy and he had a whole box of different
> connectors ,we were able to match them up.
> Parts guy said this is how they did there connector replacements.
> "Nick ------" <nixon8890@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1156365070.308440.288840@b28g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I had a few electrical connectors melt on my 2000 Jeep TJ.
> > Specifically, the headlamp dimmer and A/C control connectors. Does
> > anyone know if you can purchase these separate instead of the WHOLE
> > wiring harness? Also any tools that might be involed to crimp the
> > wires into the connector?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
> >

Nick Hughes

I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
connector.

Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
to melt the plastic.

The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Also note, you don't have to replace the entire AC Heater Control unit
if your fan speed switch melts! The fan speed switch and 5 pins unbolt
from the unit. The replacement is part number 1-05011214AA (2000 Jeep
TJ), and is about $20.

Another problem I encountered was the blow motor resistor again. Only
the high speed would work for me. When taking it apart, it looked in
great shape (no rust new looking), however there was no continuity
between the input pins. Maybe the diode was blown? Anyway, I had to
order a new one, which ran ~$45.

Thanks DaimlerChrysler!

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Nick


DanFXR wrote:
> I had a similar problem.
> I went to the dealer parts guy and he had a whole box of different
> connectors ,we were able to match them up.
> Parts guy said this is how they did there connector replacements.
> "Nick ------" <nixon8890@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1156365070.308440.288840@b28g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I had a few electrical connectors melt on my 2000 Jeep TJ.
> > Specifically, the headlamp dimmer and A/C control connectors. Does
> > anyone know if you can purchase these separate instead of the WHOLE
> > wiring harness? Also any tools that might be involed to crimp the
> > wires into the connector?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
> >

Nick Hughes

I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
connector.

Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
to melt the plastic.

The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Also note, you don't have to replace the entire AC Heater Control unit
if your fan speed switch melts! The fan speed switch and 5 pins unbolt
from the unit. The replacement is part number 1-05011214AA (2000 Jeep
TJ), and is about $20.

Another problem I encountered was the blow motor resistor again. Only
the high speed would work for me. When taking it apart, it looked in
great shape (no rust new looking), however there was no continuity
between the input pins. Maybe the diode was blown? Anyway, I had to
order a new one, which ran ~$45.

Thanks DaimlerChrysler!

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Nick


DanFXR wrote:
> I had a similar problem.
> I went to the dealer parts guy and he had a whole box of different
> connectors ,we were able to match them up.
> Parts guy said this is how they did there connector replacements.
> "Nick ------" <nixon8890@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1156365070.308440.288840@b28g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > I had a few electrical connectors melt on my 2000 Jeep TJ.
> > Specifically, the headlamp dimmer and A/C control connectors. Does
> > anyone know if you can purchase these separate instead of the WHOLE
> > wiring harness? Also any tools that might be involed to crimp the
> > wires into the connector?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
> >

Lee Ayrton

Nick ------ wrote:
> I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
> connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
> connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
> and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
> current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
> connector.
>
> Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
> connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
> pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
> complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
> to melt the plastic.
>
> The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
> the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
> accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
> connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.

It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
immediate problem.



--

Bad command or file name. Go sit in the corner.

Lee Ayrton

Nick ------ wrote:
> I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
> connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
> connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
> and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
> current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
> connector.
>
> Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
> connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
> pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
> complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
> to melt the plastic.
>
> The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
> the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
> accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
> connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.

It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
immediate problem.



--

Bad command or file name. Go sit in the corner.

Lee Ayrton

Nick ------ wrote:
> I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
> connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
> connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
> and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
> current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
> connector.
>
> Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
> connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
> pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
> complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
> to melt the plastic.
>
> The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
> the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
> accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
> connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.

It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
immediate problem.



--

Bad command or file name. Go sit in the corner.

Lee Ayrton

Nick ------ wrote:
> I went to another dealership and they still couldn't find the
> connector. I finally gave up my search and made my own custom
> connector. I used Anderson Powerpole connectors for the Blower Feed
> and High speed circuits. These are 12 gauge wires carrying much
> current. For the other 16 gauge wires, I used a trailer wiring harness
> connector.
>
> Short leads (about 5") were soldered to the AC Heater Control unit and
> connectors. The stripped wire was loaded with solder, then the actual
> pin on the AC Heater Control unit was also loaded with solder. When
> complete, I soldered/joined the wire to the units pins taking care not
> to melt the plastic.
>
> The 5 pin fan speed connector was eventually filled with epoxy around
> the pins. This should prevent any water or other material from
> accidently grounding them. I wrapped tape around the 5 pin switch
> connector to make a mold, then simply filled in 10 min epoxy.

Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.

It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
immediate problem.



--

Bad command or file name. Go sit in the corner.

Dale Beckett

Lee Ayrton said....
> Nick ------ wrote:

<SNIP>

> Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
> ****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
> present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
> corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
> short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
> vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
> resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.
>
> It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
> or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
> but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
> immediate problem.
>
>
>
>


You are correct, however.....

1) Salt water is a conductor.
2) Dirt in the water can be a conductor.




--

Dale Beckett

Dale Beckett

Lee Ayrton said....
> Nick ------ wrote:

<SNIP>

> Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
> ****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
> present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
> corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
> short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
> vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
> resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.
>
> It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
> or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
> but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
> immediate problem.
>
>
>
>


You are correct, however.....

1) Salt water is a conductor.
2) Dirt in the water can be a conductor.




--

Dale Beckett

Dale Beckett

Lee Ayrton said....
> Nick ------ wrote:

<SNIP>

> Just a note here: Water is much maligned and feared but is actually a
> ****-poor conductor of electricity, especially at the voltage levels
> present in automobiles. One is much more likely to have problem with
> corrosion following exposure to water than for the water to actively
> short circuit power to ground (if it did, it would quickly heat up and
> vaporize, eliminating the problem). Corrosion on the other hand causes
> resistance, resistance causes heat, heat melts plastic and causes fires.
>
> It is different in electronics where your are dealing with tiny effects,
> or in high voltage where you have a better chance of generating an arc,
> but in low-voltage general power-carrying circuits water isn't an
> immediate problem.
>
>
>
>


You are correct, however.....

1) Salt water is a conductor.
2) Dirt in the water can be a conductor.




--

Dale Beckett