Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
'refurbished' engine before you got it....
The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
the pistons.
They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
think the hard 'power' rings or something.
The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
in carefully should be all you need.
This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
just worn.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at the
> bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and I'm
> curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3. Is
> that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
>
> Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> crosshatch with bad bearings)?
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
>
> If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
'refurbished' engine before you got it....
The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
the pistons.
They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
think the hard 'power' rings or something.
The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
in carefully should be all you need.
This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
just worn.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at the
> bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and I'm
> curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3. Is
> that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
>
> Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> crosshatch with bad bearings)?
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
>
> If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
'refurbished' engine before you got it....
The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
the pistons.
They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
think the hard 'power' rings or something.
The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
in carefully should be all you need.
This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
just worn.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at the
> bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and I'm
> curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3. Is
> that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
>
> Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> crosshatch with bad bearings)?
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
>
> If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
'refurbished' engine before you got it....
The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
the pistons.
They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
think the hard 'power' rings or something.
The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
in carefully should be all you need.
This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
just worn.
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at the
> bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and I'm
> curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3. Is
> that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
>
> Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> crosshatch with bad bearings)?
>
> http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
>
> If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Let me see if I understand this correctly.
The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
"If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
Please expand on this process.
Additional Questions:
What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
to be removed?
Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
able to take it?
Thanks guys,
Billo
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
>
> The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> the pistons.
>
> They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> think the hard 'power' rings or something.
>
> The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
>
> You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
>
> When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
>
> All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
>
> So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> in carefully should be all you need.
>
> This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
>
> A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> just worn.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
the
> > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
I'm
> > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
Is
> > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> >
> > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> >
> > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Let me see if I understand this correctly.
The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
"If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
Please expand on this process.
Additional Questions:
What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
to be removed?
Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
able to take it?
Thanks guys,
Billo
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
>
> The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> the pistons.
>
> They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> think the hard 'power' rings or something.
>
> The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
>
> You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
>
> When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
>
> All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
>
> So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> in carefully should be all you need.
>
> This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
>
> A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> just worn.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
the
> > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
I'm
> > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
Is
> > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> >
> > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> >
> > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Let me see if I understand this correctly.
The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
"If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
Please expand on this process.
Additional Questions:
What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
to be removed?
Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
able to take it?
Thanks guys,
Billo
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
>
> The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> the pistons.
>
> They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> think the hard 'power' rings or something.
>
> The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
>
> You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
>
> When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
>
> All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
>
> So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> in carefully should be all you need.
>
> This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
>
> A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> just worn.
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
the
> > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
I'm
> > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
Is
> > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> >
> > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> >
> > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> >
> > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
You are in a tough place Bill....
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
You are in a tough place Bill....
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
You are in a tough place Bill....
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
drop right out.
Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
difficult.
I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
for size and round.
I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
only 0.010's....
I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
and put it back.
Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
power...
So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
you owned it?
Mike
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with New
> Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the crank
> would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
>
> Please expand on this process.
>
> Additional Questions:
>
> What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
>
> What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the main
> bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank need
> to be removed?
>
> Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will it be
> able to take it?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Billo
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> >
> > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks do
> > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know 'hey
> > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they overbore
> > the pistons.
> >
> > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore, I
> > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> >
> > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> >
> > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is excellent
> > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> >
> > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans all
> > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a spark
> > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> >
> > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings and
> > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> >
> > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > in carefully should be all you need.
> >
> > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean here?)
> >
> > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to check
> > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't destroyed,
> > just worn.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is at
> the
> > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6 and
> I'm
> > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of #3.
> Is
> > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > >
> > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it would be
> > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > >
> > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > >
> > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself (honing,
> > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Mike,
Well, I guess, if not anything else, this unique position has exposed me
greatly for learning which is what I wanted when I bought the jeep. I just
wasn't expecting this much :-).
When I had the compression tested by the local mechanic I also had him test
the oil pressure since my gauge was showing low since I bought it (10 to 20
psi if I remember correctly at highway speeds). Anyway, when the owner
called me on the phone with the results he told me the mechanic said it was
45 psi. Then when I went to pick it up the owner said it was 40 psi. It's
amazing as when I brought the jeep to him and told him just what I wanted
which was all test results recorded they said yes oh yes, we can do that.
When I went to pick it up the owner, not the mechanic, scribbled the
compression on the page. Nothing about the oil pressure so I just have the
verbal record. I have a brand new Autometer mechanical oil gauge sitting on
my kitchen floor ready for the next engine or this one rebuilt.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:404785CF.44454070@sympatico.ca...
> You are in a tough place Bill....
>
> Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
>
> The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
> note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
> pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
> tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
> drop right out.
>
> Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
> difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
> difficult.
>
> I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
> and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
> for size and round.
>
> I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
> can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
> needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
> recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
>
> You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
> size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
> 10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
> machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
>
> Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
> place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
> size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
> be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
> only 0.010's....
>
> I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
> finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
> wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
> and put it back.
>
> Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
> bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
> power...
>
> So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
>
> Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
> you owned it?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> > The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with
New
> > Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> > "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the
crank
> > would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
> >
> > Please expand on this process.
> >
> > Additional Questions:
> >
> > What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> > bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
> >
> > What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the
main
> > bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank
need
> > to be removed?
> >
> > Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will
it be
> > able to take it?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> >
> > Billo
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> > >
> > > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks
do
> > > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know
'hey
> > > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they
overbore
> > > the pistons.
> > >
> > > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore,
I
> > > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> > >
> > > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> > >
> > > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is
excellent
> > > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> > >
> > > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans
all
> > > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a
spark
> > > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> > >
> > > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings
and
> > > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> > >
> > > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > > in carefully should be all you need.
> > >
> > > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean
here?)
> > >
> > > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to
check
> > > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't
destroyed,
> > > just worn.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > >
> > > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is
at
> > the
> > > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6
and
> > I'm
> > > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of
#3.
> > Is
> > > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > > >
> > > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it
would be
> > > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > > >
> > > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself
(honing,
> > > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Billo
Well, I guess, if not anything else, this unique position has exposed me
greatly for learning which is what I wanted when I bought the jeep. I just
wasn't expecting this much :-).
When I had the compression tested by the local mechanic I also had him test
the oil pressure since my gauge was showing low since I bought it (10 to 20
psi if I remember correctly at highway speeds). Anyway, when the owner
called me on the phone with the results he told me the mechanic said it was
45 psi. Then when I went to pick it up the owner said it was 40 psi. It's
amazing as when I brought the jeep to him and told him just what I wanted
which was all test results recorded they said yes oh yes, we can do that.
When I went to pick it up the owner, not the mechanic, scribbled the
compression on the page. Nothing about the oil pressure so I just have the
verbal record. I have a brand new Autometer mechanical oil gauge sitting on
my kitchen floor ready for the next engine or this one rebuilt.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:404785CF.44454070@sympatico.ca...
> You are in a tough place Bill....
>
> Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
>
> The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
> note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
> pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
> tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
> drop right out.
>
> Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
> difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
> difficult.
>
> I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
> and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
> for size and round.
>
> I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
> can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
> needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
> recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
>
> You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
> size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
> 10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
> machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
>
> Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
> place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
> size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
> be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
> only 0.010's....
>
> I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
> finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
> wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
> and put it back.
>
> Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
> bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
> power...
>
> So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
>
> Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
> you owned it?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> > The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with
New
> > Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> > "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the
crank
> > would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
> >
> > Please expand on this process.
> >
> > Additional Questions:
> >
> > What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> > bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
> >
> > What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the
main
> > bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank
need
> > to be removed?
> >
> > Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will
it be
> > able to take it?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> >
> > Billo
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> > >
> > > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks
do
> > > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know
'hey
> > > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they
overbore
> > > the pistons.
> > >
> > > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore,
I
> > > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> > >
> > > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> > >
> > > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is
excellent
> > > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> > >
> > > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans
all
> > > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a
spark
> > > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> > >
> > > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings
and
> > > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> > >
> > > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > > in carefully should be all you need.
> > >
> > > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean
here?)
> > >
> > > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to
check
> > > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't
destroyed,
> > > just worn.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > >
> > > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is
at
> > the
> > > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6
and
> > I'm
> > > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of
#3.
> > Is
> > > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > > >
> > > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it
would be
> > > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > > >
> > > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself
(honing,
> > > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Billo
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the rest of the Main Bearings (2-6)
Mike,
Well, I guess, if not anything else, this unique position has exposed me
greatly for learning which is what I wanted when I bought the jeep. I just
wasn't expecting this much :-).
When I had the compression tested by the local mechanic I also had him test
the oil pressure since my gauge was showing low since I bought it (10 to 20
psi if I remember correctly at highway speeds). Anyway, when the owner
called me on the phone with the results he told me the mechanic said it was
45 psi. Then when I went to pick it up the owner said it was 40 psi. It's
amazing as when I brought the jeep to him and told him just what I wanted
which was all test results recorded they said yes oh yes, we can do that.
When I went to pick it up the owner, not the mechanic, scribbled the
compression on the page. Nothing about the oil pressure so I just have the
verbal record. I have a brand new Autometer mechanical oil gauge sitting on
my kitchen floor ready for the next engine or this one rebuilt.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:404785CF.44454070@sympatico.ca...
> You are in a tough place Bill....
>
> Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
>
> The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
> note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
> pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
> tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
> drop right out.
>
> Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
> difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
> difficult.
>
> I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
> and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
> for size and round.
>
> I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
> can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
> needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
> recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
>
> You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
> size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
> 10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
> machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
>
> Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
> place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
> size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
> be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
> only 0.010's....
>
> I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
> finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
> wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
> and put it back.
>
> Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
> bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
> power...
>
> So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
>
> Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
> you owned it?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> > The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with
New
> > Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> > "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the
crank
> > would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
> >
> > Please expand on this process.
> >
> > Additional Questions:
> >
> > What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> > bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
> >
> > What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the
main
> > bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank
need
> > to be removed?
> >
> > Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will
it be
> > able to take it?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> >
> > Billo
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> > >
> > > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks
do
> > > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know
'hey
> > > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they
overbore
> > > the pistons.
> > >
> > > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore,
I
> > > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> > >
> > > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> > >
> > > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is
excellent
> > > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> > >
> > > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans
all
> > > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a
spark
> > > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> > >
> > > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings
and
> > > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> > >
> > > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > > in carefully should be all you need.
> > >
> > > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean
here?)
> > >
> > > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to
check
> > > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't
destroyed,
> > > just worn.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > >
> > > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is
at
> > the
> > > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6
and
> > I'm
> > > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of
#3.
> > Is
> > > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > > >
> > > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it
would be
> > > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > > >
> > > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself
(honing,
> > > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Billo
Well, I guess, if not anything else, this unique position has exposed me
greatly for learning which is what I wanted when I bought the jeep. I just
wasn't expecting this much :-).
When I had the compression tested by the local mechanic I also had him test
the oil pressure since my gauge was showing low since I bought it (10 to 20
psi if I remember correctly at highway speeds). Anyway, when the owner
called me on the phone with the results he told me the mechanic said it was
45 psi. Then when I went to pick it up the owner said it was 40 psi. It's
amazing as when I brought the jeep to him and told him just what I wanted
which was all test results recorded they said yes oh yes, we can do that.
When I went to pick it up the owner, not the mechanic, scribbled the
compression on the page. Nothing about the oil pressure so I just have the
verbal record. I have a brand new Autometer mechanical oil gauge sitting on
my kitchen floor ready for the next engine or this one rebuilt.
Thanks,
Bill
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:404785CF.44454070@sympatico.ca...
> You are in a tough place Bill....
>
> Too bad my big tree and driveway are so far away. ;-)
>
> The crank will drop enough to push out the top bearing halves. Just
> note where the dimple is and push from the other end. They come out
> pretty easy. You will have to support it so it doesn't damage the
> tranny nose piece or unbolt the tranny and pull it back so the crank can
> drop right out.
>
> Man, trying to call the crank while it is still in the engine is really
> difficult. Even if I had it in front of me, it would be really
> difficult.
>
> I 'think' I would get my hands on a micrometer and try to run it around
> and across the crank journal faces to try and see if it is still even
> for size and round.
>
> I usually get them out and just take them in to a machine shop. They
> can tell really fast if you can just re- bearing it or if the crank
> needs a turn. I know pulling the tranny back is a bugger, but I would
> recommend you do that so the crank just comes out.
>
> You need to pop one of the main bearings out of it's cap to see what
> size it is. If it only a 10 over like the piston rod one, then a small
> 10 or even a 20 turn can be done on the crank still if needed and the
> machine shop will give you the 'right' bearings for the turn.
>
> Otherwise you would have to plastigauge the crank in place and find some
> place that will accept the 'used' bearings back in trade for a bigger
> size. If you do need a bigger size, the crank will have to come out and
> be turned anyway, you are correct, they don't make bearings 0.001 sizes,
> only 0.010's....
>
> I would also have the ring type identified to find out what kind of
> finish is required on the piston bores. If smooth, then I personally
> wouldn't touch them, I would just put the rings back on the one piston
> and put it back.
>
> Then you could end up with an over-bored 4.2 with a 'new crank and
> bearing set' running a 4.0 injected head... Could have a pile of
> power...
>
> So you must have had really shitty oil pressure eh?
>
> Did you notice an oil pressure drop recently or has it been low since
> you owned it?
>
> Mike
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Let me see if I understand this correctly.
> > The first order of business would be to Plastigauge the journals with
New
> > Bearings to determine if the Crank needs to be turned or is within spec.
> > "If" it isn't, then all the bearings would need to be returned, the
crank
> > would need to be turned, and new bearings would be used?
> >
> > Please expand on this process.
> >
> > Additional Questions:
> >
> > What other parts should I be looking at for wear? Are there are other
> > bearings at the front and rear which also need to be looked at for wear?
> >
> > What about the Top Sides of the Main Bearings. Should the tops of the
main
> > bearings be replaced and if so, how are they removed? Will the Crank
need
> > to be removed?
> >
> > Remember, I'm planning to bolt down the 4.0L head on this puppy. Will
it be
> > able to take it?
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> >
> > Billo
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40474556.E54257B5@sympatico.ca...
> > > You are in the classic case of ok, just what was done to this
> > > 'refurbished' engine before you got it....
> > >
> > > The top end seems fine with 'excellent' compression except for the one
> > > cylinder not firing. No wear marks with an overbore that some folks
do
> > > to increase the cubic inches for an 'increase' in power. You know
'hey
> > > 'my' engine is bored out to a 4.5 L' or something. Like folks with
> > > strokers make either a 4.7 or a 4.9 according to how much they
overbore
> > > the pistons.
> > >
> > > They could also have put in the ring type that call for a smooth bore,
I
> > > think the hard 'power' rings or something.
> > >
> > > The bottom end looks like it either wasn't touched, or it was all done
> > > 10 10 under and got damaged somehow. That thrust bearing usually gets
> > > the most wear and in your case, the sucker seems new.
> > >
> > > You have no factory codes on the block to indicate a factory under
> > > crank, so the crank 'was' changed for sure and a 10 10 one is
excellent
> > > for a turned crank. I see lots that are 20 to 40 under after a turn.
> > >
> > > When gas gets in the oil and/or washes down one cylinder, it cleans
all
> > > that hard flaky varnish like stuff off everything, then you have a
spark
> > > for a while to build up more, then it gets washed down again.
> > >
> > > All these little pieces of hard crap can get in between the bearings
and
> > > score/gouge the crap out of them like you see in the photos. Carbon
> > > under heat and pressure turns into diamond eh?
> > >
> > > So if this is just a case of gas wash doing in the bearings, then a
> > > stock 10 10 or whatever number is on the back of the main bearings put
> > > in carefully should be all you need.
> > >
> > > This can be checked with plastigauge. (do you know what we mean
here?)
> > >
> > > A micrometer can also be put on the journals and turned around to
check
> > > if the crank is still true or round. My guess is it is still ok, I
> > > think you caught it soon enough because those bearings aren't
destroyed,
> > > just worn.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > William Oliveri wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > >
> > > > Here's a pic of the main bearings from #2 through #6 where #2 is
at
> > the
> > > > bottom of the pic and # is at the top. You can see the worst is #6
and
> > I'm
> > > > curious about #3. What is that thing wrapped around the sides of
#3.
> > Is
> > > > that spacer suppose to be there or is it a "fix" of some kind.
> > > >
> > > > Mike, does your theory still hold true? Does this look like it
would be
> > > > caused by #2 or is this engine just freaky (nice cylinders without
> > > > crosshatch with bad bearings)?
> > > >
> > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...earings2-6.jpg
> > > >
> > > > If this was local to #2 I was building up to fixing this myself
(honing,
> > > > mic'ing, replacing bearings, replacing rings) but now I don't know.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Billo