Mike Romain

Pack away the tools, close her up and enjoy!

Oh, change that injector too so that # 2 will get a spark again...

I will bet when you swap that injector with the #3 one, that #3 will
have the 'wet' plug.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Mike Romain

Pack away the tools, close her up and enjoy!

Oh, change that injector too so that # 2 will get a spark again...

I will bet when you swap that injector with the #3 one, that #3 will
have the 'wet' plug.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Mike Romain

Pack away the tools, close her up and enjoy!

Oh, change that injector too so that # 2 will get a spark again...

I will bet when you swap that injector with the #3 one, that #3 will
have the 'wet' plug.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem), ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill

Busahaulic

I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
everyone but you feels it is not!)
You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
experience!

Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
"almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)

Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
any "What-if" worrying!

I'm betting against the bad injector theory!

William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

Busahaulic

I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
everyone but you feels it is not!)
You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
experience!

Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
"almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)

Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
any "What-if" worrying!

I'm betting against the bad injector theory!

William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

Busahaulic

I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
everyone but you feels it is not!)
You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
experience!

Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
"almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)

Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
any "What-if" worrying!

I'm betting against the bad injector theory!

William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
chance to test the
> first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
ran out of time
> before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
cylinders after 4
> cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
got.
>
> Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks for the reply,

Here's a summary of events that started this whole thing. I had previously
been told I was blowing blue smoke by a mechanic but I couldn't see it so I
blew it off for the mean time but kept watch. Then one day I found a place
to go 4 wheeling for the first time since I bought this jeep. Everything
went fine on the trail but soon after I began to blow blue smoke which
occurred if I let it idle for a few minutes and then pump on the gas. Also,
my plugs (all of them) fouled out. After considerable help here and other
places I replaced the valve seals to see if this would help. After
completion I saw the engine ran great and when I looked at the plugs after
about 15 minutes at idle, they all looked perfect. Also I had no blue
smoke. Then I drove it for about 10 miles and I could feel the engine go
out of balance and felt like it was missing so I checked the plugs again.
#2 was oil soaked and fouled out. All the rest were fine. I say oil fouled
because when I pulled the plug I could run my fingers around the plug
threads and wet oil would come off on my fingers.

Jump to present and reply to your post below:

I checked the wires, changed them out (switched them), bought a new cap and
rotor, still the same.

Got my leak down tester today and tried it out. The only bad thing is the
hose to the spark plug hole didn't fit so I made a make shift coupler and
connected it to my old compression tester hose. It worked but there was a
slight leak in the coupling which I don't know how much it will affect the
results. I think minimally but I will get a fitting tomorrow which will
totally clear that up.

Anyway, here we go.

I did the first three cylinders twice, #2 is the problem cylinder with the
oil leak.

#1 18% leak down, 21% leak down.
#2 35% leak down, 35% leak down.
#3 28% leak down, 31% leak down.

These are hugh numbers as far as I know. I think I should be under 10% and
definitely be under 15%.

I also got a new compression tester yesterday and last night did a
compression on the first two cylinders.

#1 150 psi
#2 150 psi

Which was the same as my mechanic's results.

My heads spinning on this one. One thing I'm going to try, and it's a long
shot, is I have some super duper carbon dissolver that you pour in the tank.
Perhaps after the engine ran rich (when I had the carb on it, now I have
fuel injection) and combined with the oil leaking before I changed the
seals, perhaps I got some serious carbon build up in the chamber which is
either clogging the injector or causing a valve to remain open.

I don't know but this is the easiest try first. I looked at the injectors
to see about changing them and it doesn't look easy at all.

Bill




"Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in message
news:20iWb.14276$fV5.352602@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
> black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
> is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
> everyone but you feels it is not!)
> You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
> all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
> Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
> changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
> bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
> blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
> that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
> what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
> spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
> perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
> it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
> wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
> back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
> have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
> had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
> After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
> performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
> the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
> it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
> experience!
>
> Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
> said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
> checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
> remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
> should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
> can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
> like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
> surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
> the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
> If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
> and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
> with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
> cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
> you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
> light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
> mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
> something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
> "almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
> lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
> points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
> but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
> angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)
>
> Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
> a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
> engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
> whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
> any "What-if" worrying!
>
> I'm betting against the bad injector theory!
>
> William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
> chance to test the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
> ran out of time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
> cylinders after 4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
> got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
> the problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks for the reply,

Here's a summary of events that started this whole thing. I had previously
been told I was blowing blue smoke by a mechanic but I couldn't see it so I
blew it off for the mean time but kept watch. Then one day I found a place
to go 4 wheeling for the first time since I bought this jeep. Everything
went fine on the trail but soon after I began to blow blue smoke which
occurred if I let it idle for a few minutes and then pump on the gas. Also,
my plugs (all of them) fouled out. After considerable help here and other
places I replaced the valve seals to see if this would help. After
completion I saw the engine ran great and when I looked at the plugs after
about 15 minutes at idle, they all looked perfect. Also I had no blue
smoke. Then I drove it for about 10 miles and I could feel the engine go
out of balance and felt like it was missing so I checked the plugs again.
#2 was oil soaked and fouled out. All the rest were fine. I say oil fouled
because when I pulled the plug I could run my fingers around the plug
threads and wet oil would come off on my fingers.

Jump to present and reply to your post below:

I checked the wires, changed them out (switched them), bought a new cap and
rotor, still the same.

Got my leak down tester today and tried it out. The only bad thing is the
hose to the spark plug hole didn't fit so I made a make shift coupler and
connected it to my old compression tester hose. It worked but there was a
slight leak in the coupling which I don't know how much it will affect the
results. I think minimally but I will get a fitting tomorrow which will
totally clear that up.

Anyway, here we go.

I did the first three cylinders twice, #2 is the problem cylinder with the
oil leak.

#1 18% leak down, 21% leak down.
#2 35% leak down, 35% leak down.
#3 28% leak down, 31% leak down.

These are hugh numbers as far as I know. I think I should be under 10% and
definitely be under 15%.

I also got a new compression tester yesterday and last night did a
compression on the first two cylinders.

#1 150 psi
#2 150 psi

Which was the same as my mechanic's results.

My heads spinning on this one. One thing I'm going to try, and it's a long
shot, is I have some super duper carbon dissolver that you pour in the tank.
Perhaps after the engine ran rich (when I had the carb on it, now I have
fuel injection) and combined with the oil leaking before I changed the
seals, perhaps I got some serious carbon build up in the chamber which is
either clogging the injector or causing a valve to remain open.

I don't know but this is the easiest try first. I looked at the injectors
to see about changing them and it doesn't look easy at all.

Bill




"Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in message
news:20iWb.14276$fV5.352602@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
> black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
> is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
> everyone but you feels it is not!)
> You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
> all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
> Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
> changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
> bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
> blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
> that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
> what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
> spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
> perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
> it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
> wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
> back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
> have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
> had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
> After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
> performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
> the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
> it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
> experience!
>
> Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
> said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
> checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
> remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
> should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
> can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
> like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
> surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
> the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
> If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
> and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
> with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
> cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
> you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
> light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
> mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
> something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
> "almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
> lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
> points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
> but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
> angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)
>
> Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
> a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
> engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
> whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
> any "What-if" worrying!
>
> I'm betting against the bad injector theory!
>
> William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
> chance to test the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
> ran out of time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
> cylinders after 4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
> got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
> the problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks for the reply,

Here's a summary of events that started this whole thing. I had previously
been told I was blowing blue smoke by a mechanic but I couldn't see it so I
blew it off for the mean time but kept watch. Then one day I found a place
to go 4 wheeling for the first time since I bought this jeep. Everything
went fine on the trail but soon after I began to blow blue smoke which
occurred if I let it idle for a few minutes and then pump on the gas. Also,
my plugs (all of them) fouled out. After considerable help here and other
places I replaced the valve seals to see if this would help. After
completion I saw the engine ran great and when I looked at the plugs after
about 15 minutes at idle, they all looked perfect. Also I had no blue
smoke. Then I drove it for about 10 miles and I could feel the engine go
out of balance and felt like it was missing so I checked the plugs again.
#2 was oil soaked and fouled out. All the rest were fine. I say oil fouled
because when I pulled the plug I could run my fingers around the plug
threads and wet oil would come off on my fingers.

Jump to present and reply to your post below:

I checked the wires, changed them out (switched them), bought a new cap and
rotor, still the same.

Got my leak down tester today and tried it out. The only bad thing is the
hose to the spark plug hole didn't fit so I made a make shift coupler and
connected it to my old compression tester hose. It worked but there was a
slight leak in the coupling which I don't know how much it will affect the
results. I think minimally but I will get a fitting tomorrow which will
totally clear that up.

Anyway, here we go.

I did the first three cylinders twice, #2 is the problem cylinder with the
oil leak.

#1 18% leak down, 21% leak down.
#2 35% leak down, 35% leak down.
#3 28% leak down, 31% leak down.

These are hugh numbers as far as I know. I think I should be under 10% and
definitely be under 15%.

I also got a new compression tester yesterday and last night did a
compression on the first two cylinders.

#1 150 psi
#2 150 psi

Which was the same as my mechanic's results.

My heads spinning on this one. One thing I'm going to try, and it's a long
shot, is I have some super duper carbon dissolver that you pour in the tank.
Perhaps after the engine ran rich (when I had the carb on it, now I have
fuel injection) and combined with the oil leaking before I changed the
seals, perhaps I got some serious carbon build up in the chamber which is
either clogging the injector or causing a valve to remain open.

I don't know but this is the easiest try first. I looked at the injectors
to see about changing them and it doesn't look easy at all.

Bill




"Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in message
news:20iWb.14276$fV5.352602@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
> black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
> is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
> everyone but you feels it is not!)
> You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
> all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
> Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
> changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
> bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
> blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
> that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
> what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
> spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
> perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
> it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
> wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
> back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
> have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
> had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
> After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
> performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
> the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
> it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
> experience!
>
> Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
> said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
> checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
> remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
> should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
> can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
> like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
> surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
> the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
> If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
> and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
> with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
> cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
> you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
> light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
> mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
> something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
> "almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
> lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
> points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
> but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
> angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)
>
> Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
> a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
> engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
> whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
> any "What-if" worrying!
>
> I'm betting against the bad injector theory!
>
> William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
> chance to test the
> > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
> ran out of time
> > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
> cylinders after 4
> > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
> got.
> >
> > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
> the problem?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

brad smith

what are you using for carbon dissolving?

brad.


"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c0cc16$14slrp$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the reply,
>
> Here's a summary of events that started this whole thing. I
had previously
> been told I was blowing blue smoke by a mechanic but I couldn't
see it so I
> blew it off for the mean time but kept watch. Then one day I
found a place
> to go 4 wheeling for the first time since I bought this jeep.
Everything
> went fine on the trail but soon after I began to blow blue
smoke which
> occurred if I let it idle for a few minutes and then pump on
the gas. Also,
> my plugs (all of them) fouled out. After considerable help
here and other
> places I replaced the valve seals to see if this would help.
After
> completion I saw the engine ran great and when I looked at the
plugs after
> about 15 minutes at idle, they all looked perfect. Also I had
no blue
> smoke. Then I drove it for about 10 miles and I could feel the
engine go
> out of balance and felt like it was missing so I checked the
plugs again.
> #2 was oil soaked and fouled out. All the rest were fine. I
say oil fouled
> because when I pulled the plug I could run my fingers around
the plug
> threads and wet oil would come off on my fingers.
>
> Jump to present and reply to your post below:
>
> I checked the wires, changed them out (switched them), bought a
new cap and
> rotor, still the same.
>
> Got my leak down tester today and tried it out. The only bad
thing is the
> hose to the spark plug hole didn't fit so I made a make shift
coupler and
> connected it to my old compression tester hose. It worked but
there was a
> slight leak in the coupling which I don't know how much it will
affect the
> results. I think minimally but I will get a fitting tomorrow
which will
> totally clear that up.
>
> Anyway, here we go.
>
> I did the first three cylinders twice, #2 is the problem
cylinder with the
> oil leak.
>
> #1 18% leak down, 21% leak down.
> #2 35% leak down, 35% leak down.
> #3 28% leak down, 31% leak down.
>
> These are hugh numbers as far as I know. I think I should be
under 10% and
> definitely be under 15%.
>
> I also got a new compression tester yesterday and last night
did a
> compression on the first two cylinders.
>
> #1 150 psi
> #2 150 psi
>
> Which was the same as my mechanic's results.
>
> My heads spinning on this one. One thing I'm going to try, and
it's a long
> shot, is I have some super duper carbon dissolver that you pour
in the tank.
> Perhaps after the engine ran rich (when I had the carb on it,
now I have
> fuel injection) and combined with the oil leaking before I
changed the
> seals, perhaps I got some serious carbon build up in the
chamber which is
> either clogging the injector or causing a valve to remain open.
>
> I don't know but this is the easiest try first. I looked at
the injectors
> to see about changing them and it doesn't look easy at all.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> "Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in
message
>
news:20iWb.14276$fV5.352602@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > I guess I missed the beginning of all this! A plug with
> > black, wet deposits that is fouled is either fuel fouled (As
> > is the 99:1 liklihood in your case) or oil fouled (which
> > everyone but you feels it is not!)
> > You have hopefully already checked these items, but they are
> > all VERY common and cause exactly the symptoms you describe:
> > Bad plug wire(s); Cross-tracking in distributor cap; You've
> > changed the plug, so that's taken care of: an injector with
> > bad spray pattern or not sealing, but I doubt this one... No
> > blue smoke - any black smoke? If that cylinder is running
> > that rich, there would be black smoke. Now that I understand
> > what the fuss was all about, my money's on the "lack of
> > spark" side of the equation! A friend once gave away a
> > perfectly good CRX Honda with a newly rebuilt engine because
> > it fouled 2 plugs repeatedly. It had the original sparkplug
> > wires on it! Spark plug wires aren't like they used to be
> > back when I was a kid - One set for the life of the car! I
> > have had bad single wires in sets quite a few times and have
> > had one or two go bad within a year, but not real common.
> > After 3 or 4 years, you'll almost always have a definite
> > performance gain when you install new wires. That said, all
> > the old-timers are gonna climb all over me - I used to doubt
> > it myself, but am now a believer after gaining some (bad)
> > experience!
> >
> > Maybe you already went through all the ignition stuff - as I
> > said, I missed the beginning. If you did, I'd suggest
> > checking it very carefully one more time. There is also the
> > remote possibility that you have the order wrong, but you
> > should have had symptoms for that. Look for anything that
> > can diminish the spark on that plug - the easy stuff 1st
> > like wiping out any grease in the hole and on the top
> > surface around the hole - if you use anti seize compound on
> > the threads, a build-up is bad and some are non-conductive.
> > If long enough, swap two plug wires (swap em at the dizzy
> > and the plugs, remember!) and see if your wet plug moves
> > with the wire. Cracks or cross-tracking in the distributor
> > cap are common and you probably will only see indications if
> > you watch it running in total darkness (away from city
> > light.) Then there is the remote possibility of something
> > mechanically wrong like a bad distributor shaft bushing or
> > something like that - should be bad for all cyls tho. On the
> > "almost totally unheard of" page is a worn point cam on one
> > lobe only! This engine most likely does not use ignition
> > points, BTW. The old Jeep V-6's had some point cam issues,
> > but they had weird point cams anyway (3 lobes at a certain
> > angle - other 3 lobes at a different angle!)
> >
> > Now that you have the compression gauge, check it about once
> > a year and keep a log book. Any time something changes in
> > engine performance rather radically and somewhat suddenly,
> > whip out the compression gauge and check it before you do
> > any "What-if" worrying!
> >
> > I'm betting against the bad injector theory!
> >
> > William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:c09dpq$14qf6p$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > I just bought a good compression tester today and had a
> > chance to test the
> > > first two cylinders (#1 and #2, #2 is the leaker/problem),
> > ran out of time
> > > before I could get them all done. I got 150 psi on both
> > cylinders after 4
> > > cranks on a cold engine. This is exactly what my mechanic
> > got.
> > >
> > > Comments? So does this point to the head/valve guide as
> > the problem?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>